Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I bet it balled up above the BCM. Try a coat hanger wire with some bright tape or paint on the end. I like to use a cheap motorcycle exhaust spring tool.

 

i wrapped about a foot of wire with blue electrical tape when going through the rubber kinda made it inward toward the steering wheel there is some slack there and it popped out right above the bcm
Posted

I bet it balled up above the BCM. Try a coat hanger wire with some bright tape or paint on the end. I like to use a cheap motorcycle exhaust spring tool.

 

i wrapped about a foot of wire with blue electrical tape when going through the rubber kinda made it inward toward the steering wheel there is some slack there and it popped out right above the bcm

Well I fed the wring through the hole in the grommet a few times and couldn't see anything coming through to the cab. Definitely fed enough wiring for it to make it into the cab, so not sure where it is going. Any tips advice or pics as to where the wiring should come through? I couldn't get it done

 

and I also warped all 3 wires tight (tape) went first try
  • Like 1
Posted

thanks guys. got it wired up. Turns out the blue was my signal wire, so i plugged it into my fuse #58. I grounded off the black to the truck and capped off the white.

 

 

I am thinking about wiring up the same way with my led bar. Which harness were you using??

Posted

I didn't see if anyone has measured how long of a light bar will fit behind the grill of a 2015 Silverado 2500? I'd like to do a 40" bar, but Im not sure if it would fit, and I don't want to rip my grill off in the lovely Chicago weather we are having right now.

Posted

I didn't see if anyone has measured how long of a light bar will fit behind the grill of a 2015 Silverado 2500? I'd like to do a 40" bar, but Im not sure if it would fit, and I don't want to rip my grill off in the lovely Chicago weather we are having right now.

May get better luck in the 2500-3500 section. This one deals with 1500s mostly

 

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

Posted

May get better luck in the 2500-3500 section. This one deals with 1500s mostly

 

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

Corwest, I posted there too, but I know for the most part, the measurements "should" be the same.

Posted

 

Corwest, I posted there too, but I know for the most part, the measurements "should" be the same.

 

 

If they are not the same the I would imagine that you would have more room. Therefore I do not think you will have much issue fitting a 40" behind there. I know a member has fit a high powered single row 37" and I also posted a pic of a single row Rigid Industries bar behind a Sierra grille. I can't imagine that there would be much difference in area behind the grill between the 2 bodies. Go for the 40"! It should fit, you just may need to do some minor trimming and have to find a mounting spot. If you want to be safe do a 30" I know that will mount easily as I have that behind mine :) good luck with your bar! Gonna look good behind the grille of that truck.

 

 

Honestly, If I were you (or at least the owner of a 2500 Silvy) I would try to take advatage of that area under your grille. Maybe remove those 2 Platic side pieces and see if you can fit 2 or more dual row 30-40" bars. I would go with some good ole Ebay bars if you do multiple in that position to keep costs down.

Posted

This is very true. Whether it works for 6months or it works for a year. It would take you buying a few of those before you equal the price of a rigid bar!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Would'nt want to change mine behind the grill every 6 months....lol ouch!

Posted (edited)

Would'nt want to change mine behind the grill every 6 months....lol ouch!

Keep in mind that post was a while back when talking about a 50" bar that someone found for <$90! Haha. I got my 30" for $90 and put it behind my grille. I haven't had any issues. Hopefully it won't need to be changed out ever Edited by Mike1220
  • Like 1
Posted

Just an update. I mounted another 32" bar behind my LTZ grill. I'm loving the light it puts out.

at5emca.jpg

0bwMs7p.jpg

qIFOOwK.jpg

 

Got any night pics with just the single bar you installed compared to lows and then the double bar you installed compared to lows? Wondering if I should go with the single row LED or the double row LED bar. I have the Z71 grille too and it seems like it would block a decent amount of the light if I got the double row like you did.

 

Thanks!

Posted

No I dont have any pictures and wont be home for awhile. But I ran the single for about a week before i put the 2nd one on and there is considerable more light. I expected barely any light spread or distance being behind that z71 grill but i was amazed how much actually gets through. Best 200$ i've ever spent on truck upgrades. Itll prob be a month but i'll try to take some pictures.

Posted

Just finished my install this weekend of our 24w flush mount pods. Used the Rigid mount plate and drilled a few holes for the flush mount. I like the look better using the flush mount. The Rigid D2 looks a little unfinished as you can see gaps around it between the light and plate. And the flush mounts match the shape of the headlights a bit. If anyone needs these we carry them for $40 each.

 

www.infiniteoffroad.com

 

9fb91e04064b9c7aedcb863800407dc1.jpg

 

4659f623719b5eedea27264f49d3fba3.jpg

 

73b345e0e76af5f9a1f8e4183ca65d3b.jpg

Just finished my install this weekend of our 24w flush mount pods. Used the Rigid mount plate and drilled a few holes for the flush mount. I like the look better using the flush mount. The Rigid D2 looks a little unfinished as you can see gaps around it between the light and plate. And the flush mounts match the shape of the headlights a bit. If anyone needs these we carry them for $40 each.

 

www.infiniteoffroad.com

 

9fb91e04064b9c7aedcb863800407dc1.jpg

 

4659f623719b5eedea27264f49d3fba3.jpg

 

73b345e0e76af5f9a1f8e4183ca65d3b.jpg

Just wondering did you connect to fog light wires or ran another wire with own switch????? Thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • 2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...