Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ran through a grommet where steering shaft

 

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

Damn. That was a fast reply. I barely got off the topic before I got a notification that you responded haha. What about while the wire was still under the hood. Where did you go in engine compartment? Im working on a retrofit for my fog lights right now so I can run a 55W HID without blinding other drivers and still put a monster amount of light on the road and after I'm done with that I'm either putting a bull bar that I will paint and mount a 20" bar on there or put a 30" behind the grille and forget the bull bar.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
Ran through a grommet where steering shaft

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

 

Damn. That was a fast reply. I barely got off the topic before I got a notification that you responded haha. What about while the wire was still under the hood. Where did you go in engine compartment? Im working on a retrofit for my fog lights right now so I can run a 55W HID without blinding other drivers and still put a monster amount of light on the road and after I'm done with that I'm either putting a bull bar that I will paint and mount a 20" bar on there or put a 30" behind the grille and forget the bull bar.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ran them under the colored piece straight to the battery. From there i ran it to a relay from there 2x 22 gauge wire through steering column. Verrrry easy! Cheap napa wire loom and run it along wiper cowl

 

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted (edited)

 

I ran them under the colored piece straight to the battery. From there i ran it to a relay from there 2x 22 gauge wire through steering column. Verrrry easy! Cheap napa wire loom and run it along wiper cowl

 

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

 

Alright cool thanks! Also what relay did you use? I'm not used to using relays so not sure which one to get or where I should get one from

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Mike1220
Posted (edited)

 

Assuming I find the ideal light, I plan on cutting through the plastic. Just behind it is a metal support which looks like it'll be ideal for holding the mounts securely.

 

Do you have more pics of your installation? I plan to copy your idea ;) I looked quickly to remove the plastic without cutting but I'm not sure and I do not want to make any mistakes. I imagine that there is a way to remove it without difficulty according to plan. It's the part #30. But Im not really sure how can I remove it.

 

Thanks!

 

Dany

 

5e9986ac186446b3874dbb6072c9a2c3.jpg

Edited by Tidan99
Posted

In the pic you attached:

#30 & #21 are held in place against the bumper by #29

#29 is held by several screws on the back side of bumper

Problem is you can't get to all those screws because of the metal bumper support pieces (cut of of your pic just above #11 & #12)

 

So to remove #30, it's either take the bumper off -or- cut #30 into about 5 or 6 pieces (without scratching bumper above & plastic trim below). Neither was is easy.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thought I would revive this thread? I have a 2014 Denali. Really seriously considering a rigid 40" behind the grill. Looking for suggestions, fit, and installation ideas? Can anyone give me some pointers? Thanks

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Thought I would revive this thread? I have a 2014 Denali. Really seriously considering a rigid 40" behind the grill. Looking for suggestions, fit, and installation ideas? Can anyone give me some pointers? Thanks

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I put strobes behind my Denali grille and unfortunately the grille's design does block some of the output. That said, I found there's two easy ways you could mount a bar, but both will require it to be below the GMC logo.

1) the diagonal radiator supports, which are attached to the truck, not the grille assembly

2) the vertical plastic flanges on left & right, which are just behind grille openings & part of the grille assembly.

Posted

Thanks Motomedic. This concerns we a little. Thought I read someplace a 40" fits well in front of the rad.

Has anyone had any experience with a light behind the grill? If so what are your thoughts? Thanks for all the input!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Thanks Motomedic. This concerns we a little. Thought I read someplace a 40" fits well in front of the rad.

Has anyone had any experience with a light behind the grill? If so what are your thoughts? Thanks for all the input!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

40" bar fits. Or atleast a 40" from rigid industries. he2evu4e.jpg

 

If you have an Instagram account these guys have installed a 40" behind a grille of a 2014 sierra. They are ArkansasCustoms if you have an Instagram account and want to check them out

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I will be getting my hands on a 40" in about 2 weeks. When I do I'll post up detailed pictures of my mounting locations for everyone

 

Thanks Motomedic. This concerns we a little. Thought I read someplace a 40" fits well in front of the rad.
Has anyone had any experience with a light behind the grill? If so what are your thoughts? Thanks for all the input!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

40" bar fits. Or atleast a 40" from rigid industries. he2evu4e.jpg

If you have an Instagram account these guys have installed a 40" behind a grille of a 2014 sierra. They are ArkansasCustoms if you have an Instagram account and want to check them out


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

. Mine will not be rigid but I'm getting it for $200 so it will do the job just fine...

Posted

I did see the post, unfortunately I'm getting into a new house so I have to delay my big 50" LED purchase a few more months

Nothing unfortunate about getting a house.

  • Like 2
Posted

Nothing unfortunate about getting a house.

:thumbs:

 

Not unfortunate for a house just unfortunate I have to delay the upgrades for the truck

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 501 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...