Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ran through a grommet where steering shaft

 

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

Damn. That was a fast reply. I barely got off the topic before I got a notification that you responded haha. What about while the wire was still under the hood. Where did you go in engine compartment? Im working on a retrofit for my fog lights right now so I can run a 55W HID without blinding other drivers and still put a monster amount of light on the road and after I'm done with that I'm either putting a bull bar that I will paint and mount a 20" bar on there or put a 30" behind the grille and forget the bull bar.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
Ran through a grommet where steering shaft

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

 

Damn. That was a fast reply. I barely got off the topic before I got a notification that you responded haha. What about while the wire was still under the hood. Where did you go in engine compartment? Im working on a retrofit for my fog lights right now so I can run a 55W HID without blinding other drivers and still put a monster amount of light on the road and after I'm done with that I'm either putting a bull bar that I will paint and mount a 20" bar on there or put a 30" behind the grille and forget the bull bar.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ran them under the colored piece straight to the battery. From there i ran it to a relay from there 2x 22 gauge wire through steering column. Verrrry easy! Cheap napa wire loom and run it along wiper cowl

 

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted (edited)

 

I ran them under the colored piece straight to the battery. From there i ran it to a relay from there 2x 22 gauge wire through steering column. Verrrry easy! Cheap napa wire loom and run it along wiper cowl

 

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

 

Alright cool thanks! Also what relay did you use? I'm not used to using relays so not sure which one to get or where I should get one from

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Mike1220
Posted (edited)

 

Assuming I find the ideal light, I plan on cutting through the plastic. Just behind it is a metal support which looks like it'll be ideal for holding the mounts securely.

 

Do you have more pics of your installation? I plan to copy your idea ;) I looked quickly to remove the plastic without cutting but I'm not sure and I do not want to make any mistakes. I imagine that there is a way to remove it without difficulty according to plan. It's the part #30. But Im not really sure how can I remove it.

 

Thanks!

 

Dany

 

5e9986ac186446b3874dbb6072c9a2c3.jpg

Edited by Tidan99
Posted

In the pic you attached:

#30 & #21 are held in place against the bumper by #29

#29 is held by several screws on the back side of bumper

Problem is you can't get to all those screws because of the metal bumper support pieces (cut of of your pic just above #11 & #12)

 

So to remove #30, it's either take the bumper off -or- cut #30 into about 5 or 6 pieces (without scratching bumper above & plastic trim below). Neither was is easy.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thought I would revive this thread? I have a 2014 Denali. Really seriously considering a rigid 40" behind the grill. Looking for suggestions, fit, and installation ideas? Can anyone give me some pointers? Thanks

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Thought I would revive this thread? I have a 2014 Denali. Really seriously considering a rigid 40" behind the grill. Looking for suggestions, fit, and installation ideas? Can anyone give me some pointers? Thanks

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I put strobes behind my Denali grille and unfortunately the grille's design does block some of the output. That said, I found there's two easy ways you could mount a bar, but both will require it to be below the GMC logo.

1) the diagonal radiator supports, which are attached to the truck, not the grille assembly

2) the vertical plastic flanges on left & right, which are just behind grille openings & part of the grille assembly.

Posted

Thanks Motomedic. This concerns we a little. Thought I read someplace a 40" fits well in front of the rad.

Has anyone had any experience with a light behind the grill? If so what are your thoughts? Thanks for all the input!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Thanks Motomedic. This concerns we a little. Thought I read someplace a 40" fits well in front of the rad.

Has anyone had any experience with a light behind the grill? If so what are your thoughts? Thanks for all the input!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

40" bar fits. Or atleast a 40" from rigid industries. he2evu4e.jpg

 

If you have an Instagram account these guys have installed a 40" behind a grille of a 2014 sierra. They are ArkansasCustoms if you have an Instagram account and want to check them out

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I will be getting my hands on a 40" in about 2 weeks. When I do I'll post up detailed pictures of my mounting locations for everyone

 

Thanks Motomedic. This concerns we a little. Thought I read someplace a 40" fits well in front of the rad.
Has anyone had any experience with a light behind the grill? If so what are your thoughts? Thanks for all the input!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

40" bar fits. Or atleast a 40" from rigid industries. he2evu4e.jpg

If you have an Instagram account these guys have installed a 40" behind a grille of a 2014 sierra. They are ArkansasCustoms if you have an Instagram account and want to check them out


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

. Mine will not be rigid but I'm getting it for $200 so it will do the job just fine...

Posted

I did see the post, unfortunately I'm getting into a new house so I have to delay my big 50" LED purchase a few more months

Nothing unfortunate about getting a house.

  • Like 2
Posted

Nothing unfortunate about getting a house.

:thumbs:

 

Not unfortunate for a house just unfortunate I have to delay the upgrades for the truck

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,962
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    contrabombarde
    Newest Member
    contrabombarde
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 800 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • From where I'm sitting this sounds like a compatibility problem. I'm assuming the 2007 was a 900-series truck, and not an 800-series (they were sold side-by-side in dealerships that model year), since it starts and runs.   This is why I HATE post-2006 vehicles. Everything becomes a huge problem when you try to keep the thing running for longer than the manufacturer has designed it to.    I can't remember when Global-A architecture started - either '10 or '11. For your sake, you had better hope it's '11, or you're going to be spending some BIG money to correct this cluster-eff. That's something you need to find out before doing anything else. You may have several computers bricked ... but the fact that it runs tells me you MIGHT be ok here.     EDIT: Just did a quick refresher. You're screwed. This is Global-A. The 2 systems are NOT compatible in the slightest. Once you get the correct engine in there that IS compatible, you're going to need to see how many computers are locked. Absolute NIGHTMARE to straighten out, too. Your buddy might be better off cutting his losses and finding something else.   Welcome to post-2006 vehicle electronics. This is why I quit the industry, and drive nothing built after 1994. This stuff takes all the fun out of wrenching!  
    • Recently acquired new 2026 Silv. 1500 WT  - L3B + 4WD,  std cab + std bed, in (duh!) Sierra White. Upgrades: replaced 'steelies' w/  Vision "Flow" black alloys,  17x8.5"; HDX nerf bar w/steps (black powdercoat); Weatherguard large/deep alloy saddle toolbox; Michelin fitted bedmat (sale, perfect fit) Weathertech door sill guards TBD: rear wheebox liners 4x black fender arch trim - searching for best  (Putco: chrome only; not looking for flares either!) -Bill    
    • True, hard to say what differences there may or may not be between Chev and GM as well as a production year or mid year part change either.    I just found it odd that under the Sierra choice on the Autel that many of the last few years of production year did not include the choice of changing the tire pressure but if that is an Autel thing or a GM thing as to why the choices were not there. Knowing what tpms sensors are on the truck should give some guidance into which choices on the tool even make sense to try as I wouldn't give up just yet with the tool but I guess he will see what if anything he comes up with if he finds out a bit more info and tries a few more things on the Autel. 
    • I'm sure if you went to a junkyard where you go in and pull the part off the truck yourself, not a used part place where they do it for you, you can get that part on it's own.  Depending on if and what else you would be buying, and time of day, they might even just skip over adding it as a item to the bill.
    • No, we trade them like pokeman cards.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...