Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 minute ago, krunch said:

Nasty, 

 

Im also interested in why you would choose the coils over the struts in this situation. This is the exact decision I am about to make. Would the coils / spindles make a better ride or are their other gains to solving this vs using struts / spindles.

 

thanx,

krunch

Double adjustable coilovers have more and easier adjustability.  I have had drop spindles and struts on my truck since a month after i bought (purchased september 1st 2016) and its good, but i want more adjustability and easier adjustability

  • Thanks 1
Posted
17 hours ago, TWill said:

208e2b6540afbc41b5ddf58647664d82.jpg317c3d36618e6694d4b0343492ca48ba.jpgNew to this site here is my 2018 Sierra Denali with a 2/5 drop.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks great.  My truck is only lowered 2/3 on 22's.  Those extra 2 inches in the rear and 4 inches on the wheels really change the look of the truck drastically.  Ive been thinking about going to a 2/4 or 3/4 drop but cant decide.  My small drop still keeps my truck funtional for light off roading and hauling trailers.

 

 

20190101_131405.jpg

Posted
36 minutes ago, DirtyMarcus said:

Looks great.  My truck is only lowered 2/3 on 22's.  Those extra 2 inches in the rear and 4 inches on the wheels really change the look of the truck drastically.  Ive been thinking about going to a 2/4 or 3/4 drop but cant decide.  My small drop still keeps my truck funtional for light off roading and hauling trailers.

 

 

20190101_131405.jpg

Thanks man I didn’t want to go any lower for several reasons one I want to keep some type of ride quality which I know you can do when even lower. It was just my decision not to and then also with the larger Rims and larger tire you run into extreme rubbing issues. My tires do Rub the liners on hard left and hard rights but other than that it’s fine. The truck rides really good. I love the low look but I have no plans on tubbing the rear or the front of my truck.

  • Like 1
Posted

By the way your truck looks really nice as well

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Trying to decide on the tire size for 22's, in between 275/40R22 and 285/40R22. Currently lowered on Belltech 2" struts and spindles up front and my stock 20's rub when turning on the inner fender liner. I'm ok with some rub but not this much. I'm leaning towards the 285/40 but not sure I'm going to gain much. These trucks look horrible with too small of tire so I don't want to go with anything 29-30" tall.

Edited by Dinner
Posted (edited)
30 minutes ago, Dinner said:

Trying to decide on the tire size for 22's, in between 275/40R22 and 285/40R22. Currently lowered on Belltech 2" struts and spindles up front and my stock 20's rub when turning on the inner fender liner. I'm ok with some rub but not this much. I'm leaning towards the 285/40 but not sure I'm going to gain much. These trucks look horrible with too small of tire so I don't want to go with anything 29-30" tall.

Crewcab or regular cab?  And youll rub with a 30.5 tall. Just not as bad

Edited by Nasty
Posted
5 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Crewcab or regular cab?  And youll rub with a 30.5 tall. Just not as bad

RCSB 

Posted
Just now, Dinner said:

RCSB 

Id go 265 40.  Youll still have a alight rub depending on if youre 3/6 or 4/7

Posted
1 hour ago, Dinner said:

Trying to decide on the tire size for 22's, in between 275/40R22 and 285/40R22. Currently lowered on Belltech 2" struts and spindles up front and my stock 20's rub when turning on the inner fender liner. I'm ok with some rub but not this much. I'm leaning towards the 285/40 but not sure I'm going to gain much. These trucks look horrible with too small of tire so I don't want to go with anything 29-30" tall.

I am at about a 3.5/6 and did 275/45-22 on mine. Heard it rub when backing at full lock once but never heard it again.

DSCN0007.JPG

  • Like 2
Posted
34 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Id go 265 40.  Youll still have a alight rub depending on if youre 3/6 or 4/7

Yeah I thought of that size too as it's not much shorter than the 275/40 @ 30.7" and 265/40 @ 30.4"

5 minutes ago, DESERT DOG said:

I am at about a 3.5/6 and did 275/45-22 on mine. Heard it rub when backing at full lock once but never heard it again.

DSCN0007.JPG

Sounds good, mine is slightly lower at 4/6.5 and the stock 275/55R20 rub quite a bit when turning. It's annoying trying to park it 

 

Your  truck looks awesome by the way, what spacer combo do you have for your struts?

Posted
4 minutes ago, Dinner said:

Yeah I thought of that size too as it's not much shorter than the 275/40 @ 30.7" and 265/40 @ 30.4"

Sounds good, mine is slightly lower at 4/6.5 and the stock 275/55R20 rub quite a bit when turning. It's annoying trying to park it 

 

Your  truck looks awesome by the way, what spacer combo do you have for your struts?

But its got less width which helps rubbing when turning

Posted
40 minutes ago, Dinner said:

Yeah I thought of that size too as it's not much shorter than the 275/40 @ 30.7" and 265/40 @ 30.4"

Sounds good, mine is slightly lower at 4/6.5 and the stock 275/55R20 rub quite a bit when turning. It's annoying trying to park it 

 

Your  truck looks awesome by the way, what spacer combo do you have for your struts?

A good friend of mine installed it for me, so I'm not sure how many spacers he put in. He used this kit:

https://www.belltech.com/products/belltech/lowering/complete-lowering-kits/belltech-2016-5-2018-silverado-sierra-std-cab-2wd-3-4f-5-6r-with-street-performance-shock-1012sp.html

Posted
On 10/31/2018 at 11:22 AM, bkb5 said:

Hi guys, new member here but I've been lurking around for a while. Some great looking trucks on this thread and some really good info. I just picked up a new 18 GMC and took it straight to the garage to get it lowered. I've used Mcgaughys parts on my previous trucks, and while I liked them when I finally got them dialed in, I was really disappointed in the lack of instructions and support. Honestly, on my 14 Silverado, my mechanic buddy and I  just had to figure it out and make it work. Turned out looking great in the end but it did have a vibration that we never could get fixed. For the new truck I called BellTech and decided on the 1012SP kit and to go with a 4/6 drop. My last truck was 5/7 which looked great, but it was really too low for a daily driver on the roads around here. The BellTech kit was pretty straightforward to install and the included directions were excellent. I had a couple questions during the install but called BellTech and talked to John on their tech support line and he helped me through them very quickly. He was great to talk to and very knowledgeable. I think it turned out killer and it rides way better than it did stock. Sorry for the crappy pics, I'll post some better ones this weekend. I've still got a few things to do to finish it, but I'm super happy so far.

my truck 51.jpg

my truck 53.jpg

my truck 54.jpg

Looks great, since you got the 1012SP kit that has the 2" coils, struts and spindles what combination of spacers did you use to get to the total 4 inches?  How much if any rub are you getting with the 285/40R22 as well? 

Posted
Looks great, since you got the 1012SP kit that has the 2" coils, struts and spindles what combination of spacers did you use to get to the total 4 inches?  How much if any rub are you getting with the 285/40R22 as well? 
Per Mcgaughys instructions 2 rings will give you 2" of drop

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
23 minutes ago, SirenRed16 said:

Per Mcgaughys instructions 2 rings will give you 2" of drop

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

1 ring is equivalent to .5"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It would be sold as a "kit", lights + auth/programming code.   You can resell the code to someone else, if they just buy the lights, either new or used, and they can then use the code to get them to work on their truck.
    • Apologies in advance, this is a long post, there's a lot to explain.   A friend had a 2010 Avalanche with a 5.3 (LMG) that blew the head gaskets (amount other problems). He gave me a donor motor out of a 2007 suburban (LC9). I got it all installed, and everything hooked up. Went to go start it, and it stumbled a bit at first and died a couple times, but after trying a few times it sounded like it was running very well. Went out to go get some coolant, and came back the next day.    Upon trying to start it, the truck will crank and fire normally and the RPMs will raise to around 1,200 or 1,500, sounding great, and then the RPMs will decrease and it will just die. Repeat that a dozen or two dozen times, and eventually it will fire and idle beautifully. As soon as you touch the throttle, it will start misfiring and sound like absolute trash. When you let off the throttle it will come down and hunt around shaking and misfiring like crazy. A message will come up on the dash saying reduced engine power.    It is throwing codes for a map sensor circuit voltage High, as well as MAF sensor low frequency. With key on engine off, the map sensor reads about 4.8 volts on the vout pin, which the PCM interprets as about 17.8 PSI, contrasted to the barometer which my scan tool tells me reads about 13.5 PSI. However, once the engine starts and is idling this reading drops to about 5-6 PSI at a stable idle, and varies significantly when the engine is misfiring/ hunting like I said before. I should note that I used the intake and MAP sensor from the LC9 engine. I changed the connector on the 2010 harness to The 2007 connector. The pinouts for the sensors were printed right on the top, and I triple-checked that I put the correct wire into the correct place.   On the other hand, the MAF sensor reads consistently 0.0 g/s regardless of State. I have pulled my hair out trying to figure out this last detail. I have tried three different sensors, (all of which should be good, one of which was new), I have verified all the wiring from the sensor going back to the PCM, and have verified that the readings at the PCM are the same readings as at the sensor itself. The intake air temperature sensor is also functioning as normal. I verified all the voltages and grounds etc, and everything is as it should be. I don't have an oscilloscope to verify, but I probed with my multimeter (Klein mm720) on frequency Mode, and it reads that on initial cranking, the maf is producing between 3000 and 7000 HZ, and as soon as the engine fires that falls off to below, 1000, and if the engine continues to run, it will produce somewhat erratic readings between 5 and 100-200 HZ. It does increase notably when the engine is revved despite the misfirings. As I said before, I have verified all of the wires going to the PCM, and I have tried multiple known good sensors. I've tested all the pins and voltages from the sensor and verified them against the manual that they are what they should be. I tested all the wiring for both ohms and voltage drop, and everything tested fine. Like I said I tested at the sensor as well as right at the PCM, everything checked out.   The only other thing of note at least I think is the fact that the engine originally in the truck had VVT, but the engine I put in, the lc9, does not have VVT. I modified the cam sensor plug to work. I reference the wiring diagrams and double-checked that I modified the harness correctly to adapt it. There is obviously a code for the VVT solenoid, but I don't think that's the cause of my problems, and this friend will probably have the PCM sent off to tune out the codes at some point.   I'm writing this for my bed so I don't recall the exact codes, but I'll update the post tomorrow morning with the exact codes. And ideas or feedback much appreciated. 
    • It's possible the two trucks are using different body control modules which is why yours works and the OP's doesn't.   So much in these newer vehicles depends on model/trim configurations, production date. They don't all use the same modules like back in the day.
    • I forgot to answer the question as per what market mine is set to and yes I finally found that area on mine and yes its also set to America.   So here's something I realized as I wasn't looking at that part in the Sierra section until now, your right that what I see here as choice 3 under Sierra which says 07/2023-06/2026 ( 433 MHz 13542523 ) it has no choice 5 for tire pressure selection. Where as it does under the Chev choice. However I kept going down the list within the Sierra and I am really wondering if choice 9 will work for your truck as it has the same model number and hertz sensor as my truck. I would say try that choice first, if that doesn't work then jump over to the Chev section and again choose that same model and hertz choice as for some reason the Chev section gives the choice 5 of tire type/pressure selection for going back a number of years. Could very well be an Autel thing that they just didn't get the updates all done properly under Sierra but anyway first try that selection 9 I suggested under Sierra and then go from there. 
    • Looking for this piece that holds the hose clamp in place. I have the hose clamp just not that other piece. Dealers and wrecking yards in my area will not sell just that piece. They want you to buy the whole air tube $100 +/- to get that $5 part.  that piece isn't molded to the air tube as I looked at my friends truck. It's held on by a screw and nut. I'm trying to put the OEM parts on the truck as the previous owner butchered things up installing an aftermarket CAI. It really looked homemade. 🤣 Thanks
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...