Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, qwank said:

I had camber issues, but the offset upper control arms bushings fixed them.  I wanted to kill myself while installing them though, What a pain in the ass even with the correct press adapters they give you

Ya that’s why I was thinking I wanted the upper control arms just to make everything easier ha

Posted
10 minutes ago, Shibbby911 said:

Ya that’s why I was thinking I wanted the upper control arms just to make everything easier ha

He ised belltech amd he has 4wd though. O think that was the issue but dont quote me on that

Posted
13 minutes ago, Shibbby911 said:

Ya that’s why I was thinking I wanted the upper control arms just to make everything easier ha

Mcgaughys has upper control arms, you can buy them in a kit with the spindles. @lovelessjl is running them

Posted

Word of caution, you'll have to cut the lower balljoint stud to run 20s, otherwise you'll have to go with 22s or larger with the mcgaughys spindles

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
5 minutes ago, lovelessjl said:

Word of caution, you'll have to cut the lower balljoint stud to run 20s, otherwise you'll have to go with 22s or larger with the mcgaughys spindles

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

I have 17s with mcg spindles

Posted
I have 17s with mcg spindles
We must have different spindles or something, there is no way I could get a 17 on mine. I've been meaning to ask about your setup because I wanna run smaller wheels at the track.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
We must have different spindles or something, there is no way I could get a 17 on mine. I've been meaning to ask about your setup because I wanna run smaller wheels at the track.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I have the cast arms. Maybe thats it i do know a guy with a 17 crew cab. Stamped steel arms and he has to use a spacer in the front with a 7 wide wheel and his clears

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted

I haven't been under the truck in a while, I don't remember which arms I have. My only gripe about my truck is that I can't run smaller wheels when I want to. Oh well, I'll figure something out

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
13 hours ago, lovelessjl said:

I haven't been under the truck in a while, I don't remember which arms I have. My only gripe about my truck is that I can't run smaller wheels when I want to. Oh well, I'll figure something out

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

I think you have stamped steel.  Could be why. I think you have to have a certain offset wheel. But i could be wrong

Posted

I think you're right about the arms... Gonna have to get creative when it comes time to add sticky rubber

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
17 minutes ago, lovelessjl said:

I think you're right about the arms... Gonna have to get creative when it comes time to add sticky rubber

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

You could always swap the front end to cast.  Ive done that to trucks here in town but might be more than you want to do.  Or just run a 20/17 like i did for awhile

20190203_123939.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

I guess the important thing is that the tire diameter be the same front to rear since I'll be launching in 4wd. I won't be making enough power to really need tall sidewalls up front for a while anyways.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted

You can fit 17's with the Belltech Spindles, they give you a low profile lower ball joint nut to use after cutting the balljoint stud down.  You can fit 18's by just trimming down the stud and using the stock nut.  

Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, qwank said:

You can fit 17's with the Belltech Spindles, they give you a low profile lower ball joint nut to use after cutting the balljoint stud down.  You can fit 18's by just trimming down the stud and using the stock nut.  

I got this nut from belltech as well. I didnt quite need it but it was close enough to buy it

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bel-2508-777

Edited by Nasty
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,813
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    520Zilla
    Newest Member
    520Zilla
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 556 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi all,   I just bought a 2021 suburban RST with 88,000 miles on it and everything has been good but I’ve been noticing within the last month or so that there are small electrical things going on and I know what the AGM batteries and all the electric electrical in these big trucks you need to have a constant flow with good voltage   That being said, I bought a new battery thinking that that might have something to do with it but today I went to get in and start it and it said no key found when I had the key right in my pocket   It also proceeded to flash the lights inside and outside for over 30 minutes as I went to disconnect the battery as soon as I touch the negative terminal, I heard the relay reset and everything come back up. I got in the truck and started it no problem.   Anyone else have this happen to them? I’m starting to think it’s the KARR system that the dealer installed short circuit stuff.
    • I don't drive this truck on a regular basis since I have a new company truck with no out of pocket fuel or maintenance cost. Yesterday I got it out to run some errands and got the title message on my DCI. A quick Google search suggested to first clean the Map Sensor. I pulled it out and it was sooty so cleaned it up and reinstalled it. Issue not resolved. My OBDII is a couple years old so didn't see any codes. Today I took it to a friend at AutoZone to get him to check it with his reader. It had the following codes: P20C3 P02BB P221F Stating the most likely solution is to replace diesel emission fluid (DEF) tank assembly.   So, I guess a trip to the dealer is necessary. I read where there was a backorder on these tank assemblies several years ago so hope that has been resolved.
    • Are you using a weight distribution hitch system with your trailer as that alone can change the actual tire pressure requirements needed. It would prove interesting to see what the actual individual axle weights are on your truck when you are hooked up to the trailer. In fact when your hooked to the trailer, typically if anything unless it has a large capacity weight distribution system that is over cranked, often the weight on the front axle will be less when hooked up vs driving empty and certainly if one doesn't have a weight distribution hitch. Really the only times one may get up there with weight on the steer axle is if there was a snow plow mounted on the front or a motorcycle on a rack or with a very large jockey tank full of fuel at the front of the box that transfers a bit of its weight to the front axle.    And of course your tires carry more weight for a given tire pressure due to their size vs a stock sized tire so there is that to take into the equation as well. 
    • Great info here thank you. I just joined, we have a 2014 Silverado truck we bought about 4 years ago with less than 5,000 miles on it. It has approximately 24,000 on it now. It appears to have all the standard issues that people are talking about. Occasional charging problems especially using 110 volt, occasional blinking triangle where nothing will turn on when first starting the truck but it will reset itself if you wait 10 to 15 minutes. Noisy coupler between the flywheel and the generator. Our truck is speed limited to 74 mph, is there any way to change that? The latest issue we have been dealing with is when driving long distance on the highway at full speed the generator does not keep the batteries charged. The meter will go into the yellow/red border Zone for charge status and the yellow triangle will illuminate solid but the generator will not keep the battery charged, not sure why the controller doesn't tell the gas engine to increase RPM to increase generator output it usually stays well below 25 kilowatts even though the battery is discharging and I have to slow down the highway to 45 mph and eventually pull over and let the truck idle to charge the battery so I can continue driving at speed. Has anyone had this issue before or have any idea how to diagnosed it? When via Motors was around it they were very helpful at troubleshooting. This becomes much if the Terrain is hilly and you're towing a small trailer
    • I have the GMC accessory (REV) cover installed by dealer. Ordered with the truck.  They did a very good install job, can't find a single issue. Some water gets in around the tailgate but no where else.  You can see daylight around the tailgate but that's not the covers fault.  Installation is means everything. Guys at my dealer were seasoned pros, not inexperienced here today good tomorrow types, like many dealers employ for these jobs.   I don't mind paying for a professional job.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...