Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, Dinner said:

Looks great, since you got the 1012SP kit that has the 2" coils, struts and spindles what combination of spacers did you use to get to the total 4 inches?  How much if any rub are you getting with the 285/40R22 as well? 

Dinner, Thanks! I’ll have to look at my notes when I get home and I’ll get back to you on the spacers. I can’t remember off the top of my head. The directions were confusing so I called the tech guy at BellTech and he was fantastic. He confirmed what I needed and it worked out perfectly. Thebtires haven’t rubbed at all. I actually really loved the look of my 14 Silverado that was lowered 5/7 but it did rub some and didn’t ride very well. That’s why I only went 4/6 this time. Thanks again for the compliments 

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, SirenRed16 said:

Mcgaughys but I'm certain Beltech is similar

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Belltech is different. They can raise up to 2" and only lower down to  2" 

Edited by Dinner
Posted

Currently have a leveling kit on my 15.  It is a 2wd, and I am thinking about dropping the front back down to stock and pulling the blocks.  I guess that would consider me "lowered".

 

Anyone went from leveled set up to stock/lowered?  Happy you did?  No rear blocks make a drastic impact?  I feel as if stock with no blocks would ride lightyears better than leveled front and blocks in the back.. but maybe I am wrong?

Posted

Depends on the truck. On a crew cab, pulling the blocks will give it a level look. On a regular cab short box, pulling the block is barely noticeable. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Only pulling the blocks on a crew cab isnt a drastic difference in looks or ride quality.  Most people wont even notice the difference in looks or ride.  Now going from lifted to no blocks may improve the ride but stock to no blocks isnt noticable IMO.

  • Like 1
Posted

Does anyone have advice on lowering the rear end on a 2015 Silverado 4x4. I would be towing a boat on most weekends, is this a variable to consider when lowering the rearend?

Posted
Does anyone have advice on lowering the rear end on a 2015 Silverado 4x4. I would be towing a boat on most weekends, is this a variable to consider when lowering the rearend?
Depends how low you go

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
21 hours ago, DirtyMarcus said:

Only pulling the blocks on a crew cab isnt a drastic difference in looks or ride quality.  Most people wont even notice the difference in looks or ride.  Now going from lifted to no blocks may improve the ride but stock to no blocks isnt noticable IMO.

 

Yea, it is a crew.  I am not really worried about it being perfectly level, but I think the 1" or so will help.. at least in my head it will.  It will be going from a 2.5" level to stock front and rear block removal.  Had the same setup when I bought the truck, but it was with 20s.  Have 18s now (just switched the tires to a 32" in anticipation of dropping back to stock).  

 

Current set up (sans tires):

9PNWn5E.jpg

 

 

Front end is color matched for the most part, but got a new bumper and will be painting it white in the coming week.  Rear too.  Pulling the running boards when I drop back down to stock.  Might go back to 20s in the future, but I love the ride of 18s.

 

What it looked like before I started color matching/switched wheels:

C6W55cl.jpg

 

Going for this look without the wheels for time being:

bFwomNb.jpg

Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Nasty said:

Depends how low you go

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

I just would like to level the truck by lowering the rearend.

20190108_160042.jpg

Sorry it's upside down.

Edited by mackadoodle
Posted

This is what I will be doing on Monday next week.

https://www.suspensionsuperstore.com/2015-2018-gmc-sierra-denali-1500-2wd-4wd-2-rear-leveling-kit-prs-152l/

Also adding a rod adjustment to the Magneride sensor. Lastly will still take truck to GMC dealer to perform a "trim level relearn" as the shackle kit suggests.

Should have about a 1" rake and when towing trailer will be level.

Looking forward to the subtle but visible difference. This is pretty close to the look it will be afterwards. f24127ebb4b0284872199f7d7e0f08a5.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, GMC_SD_Ult_16 said:

This is what I will be doing on Monday next week.

https://www.suspensionsuperstore.com/2015-2018-gmc-sierra-denali-1500-2wd-4wd-2-rear-leveling-kit-prs-152l/

Also adding a rod adjustment to the Magneride sensor. Lastly will still take truck to GMC dealer to perform a "trim level relearn" as the shackle kit suggests.

Should have about a 1" rake and when towing trailer will be level.

Looking forward to the subtle but visible difference. This is pretty close to the look it will be afterwards. f24127ebb4b0284872199f7d7e0f08a5.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

Good looking truck! What year?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Finally had the back end dropped 2+ inches used maxtrac drop shackles/shock extenders and a way to adjust Magneride sensor rods without needing a trim level relearn. Rides as good or better than it did stock. Much smoother than original ride on the 22s if being honest.

Left about a 1" rake and is working well with my trailers to be near level with them on 5a5cfb9bb5144dcb84d9891b0c0d4f17.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, pretty new to the forum. Not trying to beat a dead horse here but after basically reading the entire thread I’m still not sure which parts/kit I need to drop my truck. It’s a 2018 Silverado Z71 Crew Cab 4wd. I think I want to go 2/4 or 3/5 as it’s my daily and don’t want to lose too much functionality with it. Just want a better ride and stance. I already have the belltech 2” drop shackles in the rear, the axle block is still there, And stock stamped steel arms up front. Tires are stock Bridgestone 285/45/22. Have been on both belltech and McGaughys sites and didn’t know if I needed a whole kit or if certain parts could get me there. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks

Edited by StormTrooperChevyGuy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,889
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    smandy
    Newest Member
    smandy
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 536 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...