Jump to content

2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

BranMo103 Enthusiast

BranMo103

Posted
Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Looks like 2/5 to me

Thanks Nasty, So I should be good to run the OEM Denali 22's with this drop? I can't figure out why its bottoming out so much if its truly a 5" drop in back 

Edited by BranMo103
forgot to add something
Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, BranMo103 said:

Thanks Nasty, So I should be good to run the OEM Denali 22's with this drop? I can't figure out why its bottoming out so much if its truly a 5" drop in back 

I need measurments to make sure.

BranMo103 Enthusiast

BranMo103

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, Nasty said:

I need measurments to make sure.

What measurements do you need?  Top of tire to wheel well?  Center of wheel to wheel well? 

DESERT DOG Enthusiast

DESERT DOG

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, BranMo103 said:

As I just purchased them for my 2/5 drop that is more like a 3/6 drop.  Nitro 2 shocks are better?  I'm bottoming out on the smallest of bumps and its just irritating me.  Especially since I can't get any help from the shop that did my drop and the damn truck is brand new.  I guess I'll contact Belltech tomorrow and see if they can exchange the 2210FF that I just bought.

Had the 2210FF installed with the 3.5F 6R on my regular cab standard box and I love them. Rides great.  Everybody's truck is different, regular cabs are different animals. Had the Nitro shocks in my 2002 with a 2-4 and was never happy with them. 

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
28 minutes ago, BranMo103 said:

What measurements do you need?  Top of tire to wheel well?  Center of wheel to wheel well? 

Center of hub to fender lip.  Front and rear 

BranMo103 Enthusiast

BranMo103

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Center of hub to fender lip.  Front and rear 

Front is roughly 18". Rear is roughly 19 3/8".  But I've had a couple beers so my hand may have been a little shaky. :D

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, BranMo103 said:

Front is roughly 18". Rear is roughly 19 3/8".  But I've had a couple beers so my hand may have been a little shaky. :D

From my measurements youre about 3.5/5

BranMo103 Enthusiast

BranMo103

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, Nasty said:

From my measurements youre about 3.5/5

I ordered new struts and shocks from Belltech.  The shop I went to used MaxTrac kits for both.  Honestly I'd like to be a true 2/5 but given what I've got, I'm trying to make it work with having a stiffer ride and being able to run a 22" wheel.  I wanted 24's but that's just not practical for what I do with my truck at this time.

BranMo103 Enthusiast

BranMo103

Posted
Posted

Plus the a**hole that owns the shop I went to doesn't seem to really want to help me get the right ride for my needs.  I almost wish I never went to Reklez.

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, BranMo103 said:

Plus the a**hole that owns the shop I went to doesn't seem to really want to help me get the right ride for my needs.  I almost wish I never went to Reklez.

Reklez is usually really good. If you wanted 2in front then all you needed was spindles. but a 2/5 on a crew cab will have tmsome rear lean

BranMo103 Enthusiast

BranMo103

Posted
Posted

I called them up and after a month of leaving voicemails, I finally got in contact with him. Told him what I had going on and that I didn't really want to be that low, as it seemed lower than what I asked for.....dude straight up told me, "that truck is not that low" :cool: I'm like dude Ive driven trucks everyday for the past 13 years, the truck is lower than a 2/5 drop.

BranMo103 Enthusiast

BranMo103

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, Nasty said:

Reklez is usually really good. If you wanted 2in front then all you needed was spindles. but a 2/5 on a crew cab will have tmsome rear lean

And thats why I really went to him. I was going to let him re-bag my '66 Caddy but after this.....uh, nah.....I'll pass.  Not interested.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,962
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    contrabombarde
    Newest Member
    contrabombarde
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,158 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Some clarification may help with some of these issues.   - Rev Industries is/was the division of BAK (now Realtruck) that makes covers under the OEM names.  So if you see one with a Ford logo on it, or if you are buying the GM Accessories cover, you are essentially buying a BAK G2 cover with different branding.   - Rev Industries now markets under RealTruck "Advantage."   - As of May 1, 2025, the Advantage covers now have a 5 year warranty.  Anything before that was a 36/36K warranty.   - Parts for the covers are available from Realtruck or BAK.  The email address to reach them is [email protected] or you can call them at 818-365-9000   - If the entire cover has to be replaced, you have to go through your local GM dealer.  Service dept opens an RO, notes the damage and submits it as a warranty claim.  Keep your paperwork handy so they can confirm when you purchased it and it's within the warranty timeframe.  Once the warranty claim is approved, Parts orders the replacement cover.  When it arrives at the dealership, service will remove and install the new one for free as labor is included under warranty.   - The Advantage covers are not the latest and greatest Gen 3 covers.  They still use the old school clamps, elevator bolts, etc...If you want the newer technology, consider buying your cover in the aftermarket world.  That way, if you have an issue you can deal directly with the manufacturer.   - Finally, RealTruck has a program with many of their authorized dealers that doubles the warranty to 10 years if the authorized dealer does the install.     Hope this helps.
    • parthery
      Upgrade to a 2026 AT4 with the 3.0L Duramax

      By parthery · Posted

      Welcome to the group!  My '22 just crossed 150K miles.  Runs perfectly.  Oil pump belt will be done in the next 30 days or so and onward hopefully for another 150K.  Love the truck.
    • richard wysong
      Needing this part.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Still looks like a rivet to me in the pics, I don't see a nut and none of the pics show the head of the screw. But if you says so.....
    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      Thanks for all the help so far!   I did try right from 2026 right down to 2021, and only from 2023 down lets me select the option for tire psi change, but I get the vehicle not supported error!   I'll definitely try it under Chevrolet after work today, and I'll get the sensor number from gm for my truck tire sensors. And I'll let you know if it works for me under Chevrolet!   And if that doesn't work, I'm going to guess that what @Atlas said about maybe I have a different body control module could be true!  
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      From where I'm sitting this sounds like a compatibility problem. I'm assuming the 2007 was a 900-series truck, and not an 800-series (they were sold side-by-side in dealerships that model year), since it starts and runs.   This is why I HATE post-2006 vehicles. Everything becomes a huge problem when you try to keep the thing running for longer than the manufacturer has designed it to.    I can't remember when Global-A architecture started - either '10 or '11. For your sake, you had better hope it's '11, or you're going to be spending some BIG money to correct this cluster-eff. That's something you need to find out before doing anything else. You may have several computers bricked ... but the fact that it runs tells me you MIGHT be ok here.     EDIT: Just did a quick refresher. You're screwed. This is Global-A. The 2 systems are NOT compatible in the slightest. Once you get the correct engine in there that IS compatible, you're going to need to see how many computers are locked. Absolute NIGHTMARE to straighten out, too. Your buddy might be better off cutting his losses and finding something else.   Welcome to post-2006 vehicle electronics. This is why I quit the industry, and drive nothing built after 1994. This stuff takes all the fun out of wrenching!  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...