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2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

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Travis Whitmore Enthusiast

Travis Whitmore

Posted
Posted

65wetdog can you give us the measurements from center of wheel to fender lip front and back how it sits now? Also, does your truck have the steel control arms up front or aluminum?

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Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

Travis Whitmore Enthusiast

Travis Whitmore

Posted
Posted

No vibrations. I think most vibrations occur when the axle is flipped.

Lowriders.ca owner Todd is pretty experienced and been doing this for years so I follow his lead. He lowered my brothers 4X4 Tundra with a 3/5 drop in 2011 and it's been perfect. Held wheel alignments producing extra long tire life.

Does your truck have steel or aluminum control arms? Did they have to shim the rear axle? What's your ground to fender lip measurements front and rear?

65Wetdog Enthusiast

65Wetdog

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have steel control arms.

 

After DJM 2" drop control arms and DJM 2' drop shackles and block removed.

285/45/22 Maxxis All season performance tire

NO shim's needed. No vibes

 

Center of hub to fender;

Front - 19 1/2"

Rear 21 1/4

Ground to bottom of fender

F-34 1/2

R- 36 1/4

 

Stock All Terrain package with 275/55/20's

Ground to fender

Front 36 1/8

Rear 39 1/4

Edited by 65Wetdog
Travis Whitmore Enthusiast

Travis Whitmore

Posted
Posted

Dang, was worried about that. My truck has the aluminum arms and I'd bet DJM doesn't make arms that work with them. The aluminum arm trucks use a larger upper ball joint for the spindles. The mcgougheys kit just uses a lower perch for the OEM strut. I'd think control arms would be the right way to lower it.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
Posted

Dang, was worried about that. My truck has the aluminum arms and I'd bet DJM doesn't make arms that work with them. The aluminum arm trucks use a larger upper ball joint for the spindles. The mcgougheys kit just uses a lower perch for the OEM strut. I'd think control arms would be the right way to lower it.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Lower ball joint is different too, I know cause I had to replace my lower ball joints and I was originally sent the ones for steel arms. The taper on the ball join pin is bigger when you have aluminium suspension.

gary03l Enthusiast

gary03l

Posted
Posted

A few more pics. :)

 

IMG_2559_zps4cip5i6o.jpgIMG_2556_zpstoekiskq.jpgIMG_2557_zpsyf7h176q.jpg

Best thing about dropping it.......... my fat ass slides into the drivers seat easier.

 

what drop is that. How do you like the djm kit. I'm looking into the 2507-4/7
junram2018silverado New Member

junram2018silverado

Posted
Posted

I had a question for anyone that can help out. I lowered my 2014 gmc sierra slt crew cab 2/4. 2" spindles in front and 2" shackles and 2" leafsprings in the rear. As of right now it rides a little bumpy even though im on a smooth street. I noticed that the bumpstops are sitting on the axel. Do I have to cut or remove the bumpstops. Thank you any info is appreciated.

junram2018silverado New Member

junram2018silverado

Posted
Posted

2015 Denali dropped 2/4 with spindles and leafs/shackles and my adjustable links for the Mag Ride. 295/40/24 on 24x10 Centerline Archers

 

0921151546_zps0af94vrt.jpg

 

2015 Silverado leveled with Shackles and .5" block swap. 305/45/22 on Centerline Stingray IIIs

 

0920151543b_zpsy3s3deub.jpg

I did the same kit on my 2014 slt. (2/4 with spindles and leafs/shackles) Did you have to cut the bump stops? Mine is currently sitting on the bump stops and it bounces more than normal, not giving a smooth ride.

junram2018silverado New Member

junram2018silverado

Posted
Posted

I cut off the bumpstop bracket that is welded to the frame and bolted the bumpstop directly to the frame rail.

 

RT

how does it ride? and if you don't mind me asking what did you use to cut it off? do you have pictures?

07Softail Senior Enthusiast

07Softail

Posted
Posted

Has plenty of travel and rides good hasn't bottomed yet with the Zuki LTR 450 in the bed. I don't have any pics but I used a cutoff wheel on a 4 1/2" angle grinder.

 

RT

junram2018silverado New Member

junram2018silverado

Posted
Posted

Has plenty of travel and rides good hasn't bottomed yet with the Zuki LTR 450 in the bed. I don't have any pics but I used a cutoff wheel on a 4 1/2" angle grinder.

 

RT

Thanks for the info. I will be sure to do the same to mine.

  • 2 weeks later...
danielsilv2 New Member

danielsilv2

Posted
Posted

Just wanted to weigh in after two weeks of jacking with the rear end of my truck, this is all subjective so your mileage may vary. This is all on a RC so take it with a grain of salt. I installed the McGaughy's 34170 kit and was initially lowered 4/7, due to clearance issues I am now sitting at 3/5 an happy with the stance.

 

McGaughy's front spindles and drop shocks, top quality, I love them and the ride they provide. I would suggest these to anyone who is looking to lower their truck.

 

McGaughy's rear flip/shackle hangers, well, this kit is junk in many ways, and not just because these are probably the worse set of instructions I have ever received in the 25+ cars I have modified. Initial impressions were that it was going to be a solid kit like the front, in spite of the horrible instructions, and I will admit that the guys over at Accessory Partners were great to deal with to fill in the holes, but it doesn't change the fact that for what it is this kit is a blemish on the whole drop kit combined. Issues are as follows, rear struts are not good, rough as hell, replaced with belltechs and the ride is much better. Shackle hanger bolt holes did not align with factory holes, no matter what configuration I tried to mount them in, they were off half of the diameter of the bolt hole or more. Driveshaft was too long, like some other RC's have noted, not McGaughy's fault but I have noticed other companies (DJM for example) had factored this in to their design. Oh, did I mention the instructions were atrocious?

 

I finally broke down today and ordered the DJM rear flip to replace the axle saddles and to gain both the adjustable pinion angle (Had to shim to eliminate vibration, but I expected that) and to shift the axle back an inch to allow for more diveshaft slack before I decide if I have to cut it down, I don't think I will with the DJM kit so if you don't want to take the chance of having to keep this in mind too.

 

In summary, get the McGaughy's front spindle/strut combo, it is great. Don't buy the kit that includes the rear; terrible instructions, brackets that don't fit and crappy shocks means it isn't worth the money. You can get a DJM rear flip and hanger kit for $200 and a set of belltech drop shocks for just over $100 and you will be way better off.

 

It is a shame they spent all that time engineering such a great front kit and then let the village idiot design the rear kit. At this point I have spent over 18 hours working on my truck, over 15 of those just on getting the rear end to not suck and I can honestly say that I wished I would of just bought the full DJM kit from the get go. But I do want it to be known that the McGaughy Spindles are top notch and a great product, but I should of been done with this whole thing in about 6 hours and moved

thanks for the info I have a few more questions though. the belltech shocks u got have a part number? also what did u do about your bumpstops? did u use the factory ones maybe just cut down or did u buy aftermarket stops?

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