Jump to content

2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

sprayed99 Enthusiast

sprayed99

Posted
Posted

Hmmm, not sure. The kit they list does include shock extenders & sensor rods. http://www.mcgaughystore.com/2015-gmc-sierra-denali-1500-2wd-4wd-2-rear-leveling-kit/

 

2015 Sierra Denali 1500 2wd/4wd 2" Rear Leveling Kit

 

This Kit Is Designed To Level The Rear Of Your 2015 GMC Sierra Denali 1500 2wd/4wd Truck. This will lower the rear of the truck 2".

Includes-

2" Rear Drop Shackles

Rear Ride Height Sensor Arms (Pair)

Rear Shock Extenders

 

Notes-Works With Magaride suspension

 

I do personally want to drop & level out the rear, but at the same time want to add bags for when I'm pinned up to the TT.

 

Which spindles, leafs & shackles did you use Dan? What did you do for adjustable links? Is that Denali you dropped 2WD or 4WD?

Also, the 2WD and 4WD has nothing to do with lowering the rear. The only reason McGaughys has only offered the 2/4 is because the spindlet relocates the wheel hub up and does not change the suspension geometry at all. This means it does not change the location of the sensor arm. I have already have a way to go lower in the front of the Mag ride trucks just haven't had someone local that wants to go that low......yet.

 

Another advantage to the adjustable links, is it allows you to change the response of the Mag Ride with a simple adjustment with a wrench.

  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

Digger3 Enthusiast

Digger3

Posted
Posted

I know the number of drive wheels doesn't affect lowering the rear. The only 2/4 kit I've seen was McGaughys for 2WD & was curious if someone had found a way to 2/4 a 4WD with MRC.

 

I'd love to see what you used for adjustable links.

sprayed99 Enthusiast

sprayed99

Posted
Posted

I used stainless 1/4x28 rod ends, stainless threaded rod, stainless jam nuts, and stainless M6x10MM Hex head bolts.

  • Like 1
Digger3 Enthusiast

Digger3

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the offer Dan, but I'll be alright! I figured you likely used something along the lines of what you listed above.

sprayed99 Enthusiast

sprayed99

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the offer Dan, but I'll be alright! I figured you likely used something along the lines of what you listed above.

It was more of a joke, and there is more into the ones I make. I just gave you the parts of what we used for the temporary units while I built the ones that are on the truck now. The temp units will work just as good, but they look like crap and I can't have my parts looking like crap.

 

The finished rods are RH and LH threaded so you can simply loosen the jam nuts and adjust the link by turning the center tube.

 

The finished rods look like a miniature version of this:

 

27a23aae0590c7a6d1acc373b8d0aa31.jpg

Edited by sprayed99
  • Like 1
Trxstr79 Enthusiast

Trxstr79

Posted
Posted

Digger.

I used shock relocators and bent my Adjuster rods like the said. They may list the suspension for steel or aluminum. You gotta make sure what a arms you have. One of them is not made yet the other is and it's for 4wd.

 

 

 

 

I see the '15 drop kits with MRC are listed as "coming soon, call for info" but the 2/4 is only for 2WD. http://www.mcgaughystore.com/2015-sierra-1500-denali-lowering-kits/ Starting to get a little more excited. I juts hope I can still add bags for when the trailer is pinned up.

 

Did you get the '14/15 kit intended for non MRC shocks? Was there any shock relocators or sensor rods with the kit?

Digger3 Enthusiast

Digger3

Posted
Posted

Were you able to finally get your issues sorted out Dan? Is your truck 2WD or 4WD? If 4WD what is the McGaughys # you installed?

sprayed99 Enthusiast

sprayed99

Posted
Posted

Were you able to finally get your issues sorted out Dan? Is your truck 2WD or 4WD? If 4WD what is the McGaughys # you installed?

No his issue is still there based on the PM he sent me.

  • Like 1
Cbtruckin Enthusiast

Cbtruckin

Posted
Posted

HI,

 

Just bought the Mcgaughys 1"-2" rearshackles lowering kit (Just the shackles) for my 2015 GMC crew cab 4WD to level out the rear. Been searching through all the pages and trying to find a good HOW-TO article. Any links to some how-to articles? The included instructions weren't that great.

 

Thanks,

Corey

  • Like 1
Darth_Vader Enthusiast

Darth_Vader

Posted
Posted

HI,

 

Just bought the Mcgaughys 1"-2" rearshackles lowering kit (Just the shackles) for my 2015 GMC crew cab 4WD to level out the rear. Been searching through all the pages and trying to find a good HOW-TO article. Any links to some how-to articles? The included instructions weren't that great.

 

Thanks,

Corey

Yeah, I have their lowering kit and the instructions were atrocious. You'd almost be as good without them.

Cbtruckin Enthusiast

Cbtruckin

Posted
Posted

Have you installed them yet? Or found any good instructions? I'm also looking for the torque specs for everything. Clinton and haynes don't have manuals yet.

 

Thanks,

Corey

NewSilv Enthusiast

NewSilv

Posted
Posted

Hello,

with dropping the rear down 2 inches, what size tires can fit?

I like a little bigger tire to fill in the gap a bit more. But i don't want to do a lift.

Darth_Vader Enthusiast

Darth_Vader

Posted
Posted

Have you installed them yet? Or found any good instructions? I'm also looking for the torque specs for everything. Clinton and haynes don't have manuals yet.

 

Thanks,

Corey

 

Yeah, I have installed the full kit except the shock extenders since I opted to buy Belltech drop shocks since I had read horror stories about the McGaughy's rear shocks. Now mine didn't have Shackles as I was doing a lower drop than you are, it had new brackets, but doing the shackles is straight forward enough:

 

Chock the front wheels, Jack up the rear of the truck, put the frame on jack stands.

Jack up the axle just enough to release tension on the leaf springs, won't take a lot of height.

Remove the two bolts for the shackle in the rear of the spring, after you get the nut off the first one (I always do the bolt through the bracket first) if the bolt doesn't want to come out you still have too much tension on the leaf spring so you will need to play with your axle height, with your jack, a bit to get the tension off. The bolt won't usually just slide out but it won't take a whole lot of force, I can normally just whack it when the end wrench I used to get the nut off and it will pop loose. Also, to get the shackle nuts off I have found it is easier to put a box end wrench on the nut and then use a (I think it is 10mm) socket on the end of the bolt instead of trying to use the thin bolt head that is on the shackle bolts.

After that put the put new shackle in, I would attach it to the leaf first and then raise/lower your jack until you can bolt it back to the bracket. Do not tighten the bolts all the way down until you put the truck back on the ground and load up the springs with weight or it could cause some issues.

 

Be aware though that by doing a shackle lift/lower you are changing some of the rear geometry and there is the chance of getting your pinion angle out of whack, so if you notice a vibration (usually in the 10-30mph range and/or the 60-75mph range) you will need to shim the axle to correct the angle. Not an expensive job or hard job by any means. But this isn't always the case, it is more of case by case basis.

 

I am dealing with this right now myself as when I did the 7" drop it was just an flip kit and kept my pinion angle the same, when I put my shackle brackets in it changed the rear location of my leaf mounts by two inches and now I have the vibration. Shimming it tonight.

 

If you have any other questions feel free to PM me and I will try to help out.

  • Like 2
Cbtruckin Enthusiast

Cbtruckin

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the info. Going to pull trailer hitch tomorrow and do shackles friday. Do you know the torque specs for shackle bolts?

Thanks again

Corey

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...