Jump to content

2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

brawls Enthusiast

brawls

Posted
Posted

I think each truck can be different. My 2WD RCSB with 2" drop shackles needed 2° pinion shims to eliminate a 20-30 mph vibration. With the shims, the vibration is gone and the truck drives very smoothly.

  • Like 1
  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

DirtyMarcus Enthusiast

DirtyMarcus

Posted
Posted

I agree, plus if you have a CC standard bed like me, you have to deal with the two piece drive shaft. From what Ive read this configuration almost always need an adjustable carrier bearing installed.

CWilliams Enthusiast

CWilliams

Posted
Posted

Does anyone happen to have a picture of the stock shackles? I bought my truck used and I'm pretty sure the guy before me put some drop shackles on it. I only have about 1.25-1.5''" of rake, while most are around 3'' from factory. That would put it around 1.5'' drop shackle, and the only company I am aware of that makes that size is Rough Country. From what I remember when looking under the truck, it has the same design as the Rough Country shackles, but I am offshore and not able to look at them right now. I am going to take the factory block out when I get back home to finish leveling it out.

darkfox1 Senior Enthusiast

darkfox1

Posted
Posted

Here's the stock shackle on a 2016 2wd:

 

100_6179.jpg

 

The mcgaughys I got are a fair bit larger than this, I'm actually concerned I ordered the wrong thing now.

 

My main concern right now is that my 2015 has been in the shop 4 days with a bad diff, and I'm worried that if I put this on, they will tell me my wrranty is void or that my shackles are causing the issues if the problem persists.

 

But at the same time.. I dont want to look at my "slamming on brakes ALL THE TIME" profile when I'm walking to it from a parking lot.

  • Like 1
CWilliams Enthusiast

CWilliams

Posted
Posted

Awesome thanks for the photo. I'm sure the 2015 and 2016 would have the same shackle. This confirms I do have something aftermarket because my shackles are different. And yes, the drop shackle will be longer than the factory shackle. I would document the issues you are having with just the stock shackle in place with time stamped photos or something. Then if you had the same issue down the road after swapping to the drop shackles you could make a case. Not saying that would save you, but it might help. I would get the diff issue fixed first and ride it for a week or so before dropping it. Thanks again

Rymack10 Enthusiast

Rymack10

Posted
Posted

What tire size would be the biggest you can get without scrubbing if you drop the back with 2 inch shackles? I plan on eventually upgrading to 20" rims and michelin ltx tires. Just need to know what size tires to get without rubbing.

07Softail Senior Enthusiast

07Softail

Posted
Posted

What tire size would be the biggest you can get without scrubbing if you drop the back with 2 inch shackles? I plan on eventually upgrading to 20" rims and michelin ltx tires. Just need to know what size tires to get without rubbing.

You will be fine. pull a tape measure and subtract 2" from current stance. I have 305-45-22 with no scrubbing.

 

RT

polarisiq93 New Member

polarisiq93

Posted
Posted

hi there I am new to the forum. I have a 2015 denali. I have the rear 2" levelling kit from mcgaughy's. I am wondering if anyone who has done it before can shed some light on what I have to do with the sensor arms ? They told me they might not be building the correct length arms for a while. I have had some people tell me that it can't be done and others tell me it can but you have to cut the sensor arms. If anyone has any knowledge on this please let me know. Thanks

  • 2 weeks later...
14 Silvy Enthusiast

14 Silvy

Posted
Posted

2d2c488249c41bcaef9e040af319fc7f.jpg

 

2014 4x4 with aluminum front suspension. I used DJM 4" control arms and made a spacer to bring it up to 3.5 in front then done a 5/6 flip kit set at 5" no rubbing binding or vibrations tires are 285/45/22.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
danielsilv2 New Member

danielsilv2

Posted
Posted

2d2c488249c41bcaef9e040af319fc7f.jpg

 

2014 4x4 with aluminum front suspension. I used DJM 4" control arms and made a spacer to bring it up to 3.5 in front then done a 5/6 flip kit set at 5" no rubbing binding or vibrations tires are 285/45/22.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

good looking truck. did u buy those headlights with the corners cleared or do it yourself?

wantavant Enthusiast

wantavant

Posted
Posted

I think each truck can be different. My 2WD RCSB with 2" drop shackles needed 2° pinion shims to eliminate a 20-30 mph vibration. With the shims, the vibration is gone and the truck drives very smoothly.

 

Got any pics of yours after dropping the rear? I plan on doing the same and curious how it looks with just the 2" shackles and blocks still in?

 

Thanks!

07Softail Senior Enthusiast

07Softail

Posted
Posted

Got any pics of yours after dropping the rear? I plan on doing the same and curious how it looks with just the 2" shackles and blocks still in?

 

Thanks!

LOL.... It is still hiked up in the ass! If you want close to level remove the block and add shackles. Read the post's on this!!!

 

RT

brawls Enthusiast

brawls

Posted
Posted

Got any pics of yours after dropping the rear? I plan on doing the same and curious how it looks with just the 2" shackles and blocks still in?

 

Thanks!

Here's a quick pic taken at work. I like the look of the 2" drop: there is still a slight rake but nowhere near as noticeable as before.

 

post-134221-0-14300600-1459787293_thumb.jpg

post-134221-0-14300600-1459787293_thumb.jpg

post-134221-0-14300600-1459787293_thumb.jpg

post-134221-0-14300600-1459787293_thumb.jpg

wantavant Enthusiast

wantavant

Posted
Posted

Here's a quick pic taken at work. I like the look of the 2" drop: there is still a slight rake but nowhere near as noticeable as before.

 

attachicon.gif2014 Chevy Silverado.jpg

 

I am the same way, I still like the slight rake as well. Looks awesome man! Thanks for the pic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • Erfar
      Oil Change

      By Erfar · Posted

      have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...