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By ManyCamaroz · Posted
It's a '21 and was a CPO with extended protection when purchased, so hopefully it will be covered. -
I would argue that GMPartsDirect has that info wrong. The service manual for R+R the lower arm and for adjusting camber/caster, none of the steps say to discard and replace the nut or the bolt. The only part that gets discarded is the plastic cam adjustment retainer that is in the eccentric from the factory. The LCA nut torque spec is: First Pass: 180 Y (133 lb ft) Final Pass: 90 –105 Degrees That is WELL past 130ft.lbs per the TSB that you reference that does not apply to this scenario. As for your clunk. I'd say it needs to be diagnosed thoroughly. Assuming the LCA hardware is tight, you could have a problem with the UCA, sway bar end links, etc. -
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By Grumpy Bear · Posted
The filtering to wear relationship goes like this: 'Relative Engine Life "Factor" new divided by the factor old. So 8/3= 2.67. That result is the multiplier thus if a motor had an effective life of 100K using a filter with a 45 micron rating at a Beta ratio of 75 then a filter with a micron rating of 10 at a Beta of 75 would improve expected engine life to 267,000 miles. Wear metals are an indirect indicator. Less is better and the motor lives longer but there isn't a multiplier like there is for filtration so well documented. Most of that has to do with the sensitivity of the wear metals tests themselves. They read a 'slice' of the spectrum but not the absolute values for the entire spectrum. So a general indicator that is used WITH the results of other tests. Two others considered in this post. Trending is very important. There is also the influence of corrosive wear which may be seen in the wear metals but separate from load based or viscosity mitigated indication. It's a small graph but the gray line is wear vs the TBN/TAN crossover. Not as useful as it used to be as there are now new chemistries for acid remediation that don't show up in standard UAO testing. They will catch up or be found liars. Only two possible outcomes, eh? -
One thing that comes up over and over is that the torque converters are the weak link. Many of the failed transmissions have the same thing in common. The torque converter grenades and then metal torque converter shards end up destroying the transmission. One of the best things you can do is if your transmission is still fully functional, change out to one of the aftermarket billet torque converters. There are several good choices mentioned in different threads here to make your choice. After that, then you can decide about trans tuning. My trans failed at around 95,000 miles. It got replaced under the GM protection plan. The remanufactured trans comes with a 100,000 mile /3 year warranty. I still have just under 1 year left. So far, so good. As long as it's still working good next year, an aftermarket torque converter is going to get installed early spring. If the trans and OEM torque converter fail by then, I will get it replaced under warranty and immediately have an aftermarket torque converter installed. A warranty replacement trans of a replacement trans will no longer have the warranty so I will bulletproof it from the get go. -
By Grumpy Bear · Posted
You got'a be cooking right now. Just looked at the weather map. Yuck! We are right back to $4 today.
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