Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

If the cam is too thick it will bind the movement so you will have trouble gettin it to lock with the key.

Sand it down a bit (I used a dremel) so that it can swivel freely after you install the c clip.

This is the way it should work if you want to be able to lock with the key as well.

Posted

I did hear from them and they had a manufacturing issue where kits went out with no cam. They sent me out a cam promptly no questions asked. Just get the cam because your rolling the dice with amazon.

That's good to hear, I'd hate to just keep sending lots back until I got one with a cam lol.

Posted

Has anyone tried the Pace Edwards remote PowerGate lock? Just curious or if Pop and Lock is the way to go.

Posted

That's good to hear, I'd hate to just keep sending lots back until I got one with a cam lol.

The folks at Pop n Lock have been very responsive to a couple of issues I had. The cable that goes from the tailgate to the bed had a bad pin in the connector. They sent a new cable right out and answered a couple of questions I had. If something is missing, reach out to them for help.

  • Like 1
Posted

I agree they have always been good. I finished my install today. Took my time routing the wire and heat shrinking connections. Works perfect like the others I have owned.

  • Like 1
Posted

Ordered mine today. It's supposed to be here Saturday. Looking forward to the install.

 

 

Fat fingered, and shot from the hip.

Posted

Got mine installed tonight. Not sure if it's normal, but when using the key the lock keeps turning in the new cam arm after it contacts the stops if that makes sense. Maybe 1/8" in both directions.

 

Unlock with the remote works great, since it's going down. Seems like there's not enough throw in the ram the move the white toggle past the break over point to lock. When locked the handle is in kind of a bind but a little more pressure and the white toggle moves up to lock. Anybody else have this issue.

 

 

Fat fingered, and shot from the hip.

Posted

Got mine installed tonight. Not sure if it's normal, but when using the key the lock keeps turning in the new cam arm after it contacts the stops if that makes sense. Maybe 1/8" in both directions.

Unlock with the remote works great, since it's going down. Seems like there's not enough throw in the ram the move the white toggle past the break over point to lock. When locked the handle is in kind of a bind but a little more pressure and the white toggle moves up to lock. Anybody else have this issue.

Fat fingered, and shot from the hip.

The cam should swivel freely and I found it was a bit too thick so it would bind when I added the c clip.

Sanding the thickness down with a dremel allowed it to swivel and now it works as designed.

  • Like 1
Posted

The cam should swivel freely and I found it was a bit too thick so it would bind when I added the c clip.

Sanding the thickness down with a dremel allowed it to swivel and now it works as designed.

I got my Cam from pop and lock and finished the install. I used your advise Crewl1 and it works perfect! Thanks for all the help everyone!

Posted

I'll try to sand down the cam to see if that helps.

 

 

Fat fingered, and shot from the hip.

Posted

Per Fondupot's DIY video on the PNL install, note that installing the C-clip so the open part faces the hinges of the tailgate seems to do the trick.

  • Like 1
Posted

Per Fondupot's DIY video on the PNL install, note that installing the C-clip so the open part faces the hinges of the tailgate seems to do the trick.

I tried that and every other direction. Sprayed it with lubricant as well.

Sanding it down was the fix for me.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I know it's not exactly the same vain as adding the aftermarket tailgate lock but, I traded for a 2016 a few weeks back and one of my favorite features besides the HID headlights is the remote locking tailgate.

  • Like 2
  • 5 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Well, I had my first failure with the Pop & Lock tailgate kit...or did I? Ran some errands today and when I returned, I didn't hear the familiar "thud" when I put her in park inside the garage. Got out of the truck to investigate and tried the remote. Ok, so it's been working great for almost two years. Started with the VOM at the tailgate. No voltage when lock or unlock on the remote. Opened the kick plate. No voltage on the wires when using the remote here either.

 

Then I noticed one of the wires had come loose from the Scotchlock fastener! Yanked them out...stripped and soldered the wires. ALL IS WELL!!!

(Been meaning to solder these wires...well, now it's done).

 

I think I heard someone else (Fondupot) say, "DON'T USE THE SUPPLIED SCOTCHLOCKS! "

Edited by chuckl1218

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...
    • Thks, and actually it was my bad, because here in this post there is someone showing the correct wire position as well. My bad... But thank you a lot with the help as well. I was able to find and buy a 10 channel VPM that came from a sister silverado of mine. The same year, same mode, same trim, same everything. 2022 Silverado 1500 LTD LTZ (pre-refresh). I also found to buy just the bottom mirror part that has the cameras, so way cheap than the full mirror. + a used front camera. I did test everything together, cameras, cables and the VPM.... everything worked EXCEPT my original Bed camera and the backup grid lines. I think the reason is because now I need to do the VPM reprogram. I sent a msg White Automotive & Media Service to confirm that it is the problem and that they can do it service for me case.   Once I get it 100% done I will post here result....
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...