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Posted

Not sure how often they offer this deal but Fold A Cover is offering 20% off on their Elite G4 w/Personal Caddy.. Was a $220 discount plus I found another $25 coupon on some Ford Raptor site.. Anyone interested may want to check it out as it said the sale was ending on the 19th of this month yet it was still up tonight (20th) and I was able to order/pay for it. I also got a free 2 year warranty extension and a weatherstrip kit included in the special..

 

I can't wait to install it, I had my truck Line-Xed a month or so ago and I don't want it to fade.. plus I like the idea of finally being able to use my bed and not have to worry about stuff getting stolen.

Posted

I really like the Fold A Cover. What sold me was you can access the front section or rear section of the bed by just flipping a single panel, no need to flip all the panels back to get to the front of the bed. They also are lockable and you don't need to lift the rear panel to open / close the tailgate.

 

Installation was pretty straight forward. The only drawback was it is winter here, so the rubber weather stripping was holding up the end panels slightly. They have started to settled down some.

  • Like 1
Posted

Well, with the personal caddy and the sliding tray, and shipping for the caddy it was still $1388 after the discount and $25 coupon.. I was a little leery about spending $1400 on a cover but I have heard such good things I decided to go for it.. I think that personal caddy is 3-400 alone.. seems a little much for what it is, but it looks and sounds neat, we'll see.. I bought it because I thought it would help me utilize my bed a little better which right now stays empty 99% of the time as I don't want to leave stuff in it for someone to just walk off with.. I have the Line-x liner sprayed in there and the GM mat on top and that GM mat no matter how many sunny days its in will not lay flat.. It still has speed bumps in it from when it was rolled up in the box.. I am ready to fill a box of junk and strap it down for a few days but I don't want someone to think it's valuable and steal my bin.. so I'll do it once the cover is on..

Posted

I ordered my G4 Elite w/Personal Caddy and sliding drawer lastnight and I already have a tracking number from FedEx with a deliver on Thursday.. Pretty snappy service. I am very pleased.

Posted

Installed my Invis-a-rack / Truxedo combo today. It took quite a while to install, nothing difficult just lots of sealing and interpreting directions, and running out to buy a 17/64s drill bit.

 

Truxedo wants a fortune for the special tonneau this combo uses. I got an outstanding deal on it at http://www.truckalterations.com/ compared to everywhere else.

 

post-128486-0-33462300-1395533018_thumb.jpg

 

post-128486-0-90965400-1395533018_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

I had a F150 and had the Bakflip HD folding cover, almost 5 years and no issues with it, worked great and no leaks. So likely I will get one of them again, or maybe try their new Roll-X cover since it doesn't entirely block the rear window when rolled up (compared to the folding model). I've sometimes read about customer services issues but usually they will take care of you, sometimes even the owner Julian gets involved on the truck forums.

 

as far as a great place to buy one from, try www.bakfactoryoutlet.com The owner is Morrie, call and ask for the forum discount and he'll give you his best price.

Posted

My dealer had a local accessory shop install a G2 cover as part of my purchase. I'm very satisified with the G2 and it hasn't leaked through numerious heavy downpoors. However, they did a poor job installing the drain system. They passed the drain tubes through the front bed rubber plugs. Clear plastic tubes crimped closed due to sharp bends, any suggestions? Thanks

Posted

Check out bak roll x if don't want the box. Best security in a top roll up

Posted

Had my truck for a week studying which to get I went with roll n lock because it's wAy more secure and is proven.

Posted (edited)

My dealer had a local accessory shop install a G2 cover as part of my purchase. I'm very satisified with the G2 and it hasn't leaked through numerious heavy downpoors. However, they did a poor job installing the drain system. They passed the drain tubes through the front bed rubber plugs. Clear plastic tubes crimped closed due to sharp bends, any suggestions? Thanks

 

Hit up the home depot and get some 90* elbows if you want to keep the drains there. If you have a drop in bed liner just dump em down by the front tie downs.

Edited by MotoMedic
Posted (edited)

My dealer had a local accessory shop install a G2 cover as part of my purchase. I'm very satisified with the G2 and it hasn't leaked through numerious heavy downpoors. However, they did a poor job installing the drain system. They passed the drain tubes through the front bed rubber plugs. Clear plastic tubes crimped closed due to sharp bends, any suggestions? Thanks

 

I took mine and heated them up before bending them, and put them through my tiedoen cutouts. Actually had to drill a hole through the plastic plug. The 90 elbow is a good idea tho.

Edited by MotoMedic
Posted

I got the rollbak g2 because I didn't want to have to lock the tailgate and the cover. The rollbak opens from below so when the tailgate is locked you cannot open it. Very happy with it.

Posted (edited)

My dealer had a local accessory shop install a G2 cover as part of my purchase. I'm very satisified with the G2 and it hasn't leaked through numerious heavy downpoors. However, they did a poor job installing the drain system. They passed the drain tubes through the front bed rubber plugs. Clear plastic tubes crimped closed due to sharp bends, any suggestions? Thanks

 

All you need is reinforced vinyl tubing from Lowe's / Home Depot. Comes in a range of sizes and won't crimp or kink. And you don't need much... the ends of hose only need to be a few inches past the openings in bed to drain effectively.

clear-vinyl-heavy-wall.jpg

Edited by MotoMedic

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    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
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    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
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