Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

69b4c9830f59e9695b9f34af921a4d6c.jpg

Ebay $170 shipped stepside bars. Lets see how long they last. Weather is not bad down here in South Texas so not too worried on that side.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Here are some links:

 

This one is of the seller whom I bought from. Currently the price is at $209 but he occasionally drops the price a bit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-2017-Chevy-Silverado-GMC-SIERRA-Crew-Cab-HOOP-STYLE-DROPPED-Steps-Nerf-Bars-/121962978667?hash=item1c658f5d6b:g:yVIAAOSwcLxYL2Gv&vxp=mtr

 

Or you can order from this other one who carries the same ones at $190 all the time.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-2017-Chevy-Silverado-GMC-Sierra-Crew-Cab-HOOP-STYLE-BLACK-Nerf-Bars-STEPS-/322025879020?hash=item4afa3cf5ec:g:TZwAAOSwAuZX3BSc&vxp=mtr

 

How do these feel as far as line up with the door. Just got the nfabs installed and love look but that is pointless when the function sucks. They need to be moved about 4 inches back to be used comfortably. So have now considered other look alikes sucks as rough country which look identical or iron cross plus which have same look but adjustable in there positioning. Leaning in that direction but haven't seen any reviews. Also considering magnum rt but same concern of line up with door. And finally the new gm off roads that come on all terrain x look great but costly. Please help with ur experience with any of the above.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Posted

So, I took the risk on the raptor board. They help complete the grandpa look that I am going for.

post-169145-148915880541_thumb.jpg

 

Initial quality - ok

Mounting - ok

Ingress - ok

Egress - rubber pad is a little too far forward for left heel to catch.

post-169145-148915880541_thumb.jpg

post-169145-148915880541_thumb.jpg

post-169145-148915880541_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

How do these feel as far as line up with the door. Just got the nfabs installed and love look but that is pointless when the function sucks. They need to be moved about 4 inches back to be used comfortably. So have now considered other look alikes sucks as rough country which look identical or iron cross plus which have same look but adjustable in there positioning. Leaning in that direction but haven't seen any reviews. Also considering magnum rt but same concern of line up with door. And finally the new gm off roads that come on all terrain x look great but costly. Please help with ur experience with any of the above.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Completely agree on the Nfabs. They're okay for getting in the truck, but getting out, the positioning is too far forward. I hate to admit it, but the stock 6 inch steps I had at the beginning were much better in terms of function. Not only do the Nfabs not function all that well, I lost a lot of protection that my stock 6 inch steps provided from rocks and debris.

Edited by pcruis1
Posted

How do these feel as far as line up with the door. Just got the nfabs installed and love look but that is pointless when the function sucks. They need to be moved about 4 inches back to be used comfortably. So have now considered other look alikes sucks as rough country which look identical or iron cross plus which have same look but adjustable in there positioning. Leaning in that direction but haven't seen any reviews. Also considering magnum rt but same concern of line up with door. And finally the new gm off roads that come on all terrain x look great but costly. Please help with ur experience with any of the above.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I don't have experience with any of the others however for me these have been working great going in and out of the truck. I go left foot on step grab the steering wheel and in I go with ease and no sliding on seat whatsoever. Wife is happy about them too and even my little 3 year old uses them in the rear with no issues; but I definitely recommend them. My wife would have probably pointed something out immediately if the in and out procedure was uncomfortable. The steps are great and as previously recommended by others some linex can re-inforce them and prevent rust issues.

Posted

I don't have experience with any of the others however for me these have been working great going in and out of the truck. I go left foot on step grab the steering wheel and in I go with ease and no sliding on seat whatsoever. Wife is happy about them too and even my little 3 year old uses them in the rear with no issues; but I definitely recommend them. My wife would have probably pointed something out immediately if the in and out procedure was uncomfortable. The steps are great and as previously recommended by others some linex can re-inforce them and prevent rust issues.

Would u mind measuring from the back of the front wheel well to the center of the first step, give measurement, and then to the middle of the rear portion of the first step. I would like to compare with nfabs to see if they are further back. Thanks

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

I have to agree with you about the NFabs being more about form over function. The steps are just not very useful. If the flat step was more centered in the hoop in or out they would be more useful. Not to mention they are a snow and ice trap.

post-167554-0-92466900-1489376879.jpg

post-167554-0-92466900-1489376879.jpg

post-167554-0-92466900-1489376879.jpg

post-167554-0-92466900-1489376879.jpg

Posted

Would u mind measuring from the back of the front wheel well to the center of the first step, give measurement, and then to the middle of the rear portion of the first step. I would like to compare with nfabs to see if they are further back. Thanks

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Rear of front well to mid first step ~23"

f2aa576e23313355c22ff36291d03ecb.jpg

Mid first step to passenger mid step ~44"

b94c7f3a32868690439ffda82349635f.jpg560efbe1d9e7803e92e18f200801e45a.jpg

Finally rear of front well to passenger mid step ~67"

d501e48844cfeb2d0da20e53970504eb.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Rear of front well to mid first step ~23"

f2aa576e23313355c22ff36291d03ecb.jpg

Mid first step to passenger mid step ~44"

b94c7f3a32868690439ffda82349635f.jpg560efbe1d9e7803e92e18f200801e45a.jpg

Finally rear of front well to passenger mid step ~67"

d501e48844cfeb2d0da20e53970504eb.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're my hero. Thanks going to compare numbers when I get off today.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Posted

You're my hero. Thanks going to compare numbers when I get off today.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Lol sounds good bud; glad to help

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Anyone with nfabs hoping these would work better mine with crew cab measures about the same in front. 22 1/2 front but rear were 64 1/2 in the rear. Hoping someone with rough country version might chime in .

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Posted

Anyone with nfabs hoping these would work better mine with crew cab measures about the same in front. 22 1/2 front but rear were 64 1/2 in the rear. Hoping someone with rough country version might chime in .

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Rough Country steps

Lift%20with%20steps.jpg

 

Rear of wheel well to middle of front step ~23"

20170314_180753.jpg

 

Wheel well to rear step ~65"

20170314_180814.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Rough Country steps

Lift%20with%20steps.jpg

 

Rear of wheel well to middle of front step ~23"

20170314_180753.jpg

 

Wheel well to rear step ~65"

20170314_180814.jpg

Thanks . Looks like they are all about the same. Got lucky with that request so anyone with the ironcross plus. They the same style but are somehow adjustable in position. Unfortunately I can't find any reviews on quality or videos to see how they adjust.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,838 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...