Center console swap?

darkfox1 · February 27, 2015

got 23466980 on order with the other parts mentioned above.

Folks at GMPD said the reason for the PN changes are that minor changes are being made to the console. It could be anything from having a larger clip to using a different dye manufacturer to moving the wire harness slightly in one direction. Any time a change is made to the part the PN changes.

My best guess in this case? They're probably sourcing cheaper parts or they're fixing rattles. You know how GM does it.. they make something for like 10 years and continually massage it until its closer to "perfect."

Then the change it entirely and start the process all over again.

showard47651 · March 2, 2015

I have a black leather jump seat for sale, also the front dash cover with plugs. Do not have wiring harness pm me for details.

goby · March 7, 2015

I had a 2014 Black Sierra that I swapped a jump seat for a full console. Yes it was worth it, but I had to sell the truck and before selling it I swapped the seat and console back. I now have a complete black console with a cup holder that I purchased separately. If you're interested in it, please let me know. Update- it's sold.

The console has been sold. Thanks everyone.

Edited March 7, 2015 by goby

darkfox1 · March 9, 2015

Was just told part number 23466980 was on permanent backorder with no ETA.

This is the 3rd part number for the console I have tried. This is infuriating. The upper trim and side panels have already arrived. WHY DO THEY KEEP DOING THIS??

darkfox1 · March 17, 2015

So I got my console in. It was a slightly damaged unit, but not enough to limit functionality. (I think thats how they got it so fast.)

Having trouble with disassembly to swap harnesses. How do I get to the rear cig lighter??

darkfox1 · March 18, 2015

OK.. mine's in.

Here's a writeup, cos I haven't seen one so far.

1. remove the "ash tray" and cig. ligther in your dash with 3 t-10 torx screws, and 2 clips.

2. Remove the radio trim, clips in.

3. remove the radio (stay with me here..) 4 7mm bolts

4. remove the accessory switches, which 3 7mm bolts, 1 of which was hidden by the radio.

5. remove 4 7mm bolts, 2 down low where your ash tray and cig lighter were, 2 up behind the accessory switches.

6. Put your front bracket in, it has alignment pins and the 4 7mm bolts hold it in. IMPORTANT: run your cig lighter/other harnesses through the bracket BEFORE you bolt it in. Otherwise they wont fit.. and you'll be like me and have harnesses that wont reach at the end of your installation.

7. put your accessory switches and radio and radio cover back on. You wont need to remove these again.

8. remove the plastic trim cover just to the right of the gas pedal that covers a support beam.

9. slide your driver seat all the way forward, remove the back cover and remove 16mm bolt holding the jump seat down.

10. slide your driver seat all the way back, remove cover and 16mm bolt holding the jump seat down.

11. repeat 9,10 on passenger side.

12. Slide pass. seat all the way forward, remove large torx bolt on inner rail. (don't recall the size of this, sorry, but its big.)

13. Remove plastic cover on outer side of passenger seat, exposing other torx bolt in rear of seat.

14. You should probably disconnect the battery now, you're messing with airbag equipment.

15. In a crew cab it is NOT necessary to remove the pass. seat. Tilt it forward and prop it up with something. Look for a square of carpet that is cut away. Remove the harness under the seat. It's black and has a grey rotating lock. A usb connector is next to it. It has a retention clip so don't just pull it straight out.

16. Wrestle the jump seat out.

17. Remove the wire harness from the jump seat. ( yea that's one LONG step.)

17a. Start with the easy parts, unclip it underneath and run it all the way up to where it disappears into the seat itself.

17b. remove FOUR screws holding down cup holders. You have to remove the rubber coating to do this, which may be glued down. Keep trying. Don't be like me and break the 2 bottom screws.

17c. remove large torx bolt holding jump seat top to bottom on driver's side.

17d. remove internal bucket inside of top of jump seat. 2 phillips head screws is all I remember seeing.

17e. remove side cover where you removed the large torx bolt, you should now clearly have access to the wires.

17d. fish the wire harness out of the jump seat.

From this point on, it becomes a matter of my opinion/method. Yours may differ greatly.

18. Remove as much of the console wire harness from the console as you can. This includes the usb connector, flash card connector, and the console's own internal cig. lighter harness.

19. CUT the console wire harness, leaving a long excess of wire back to the rearward facing cig. lighter (it's a lot of trouble to get it out so I just left mine in.)

20. Cut the end off of one of your cig lighters on the jumpseat harness. It should be the one that went to the back. I cut it as short as I could so that I could take advantage of the most length of wire.

21. Peel the insulation back on thje cut wire, you'll see 4 wires, white, white/black, black, and purple/yellow. black and purple/yellow mate with your old harness's black/(other color, it will be obvious at the time.)

22. Solder or crimp the console's cig lighter harness to the jumpseat's cig lighter harness.

23. Tape up the harness, put it in the console, letting the harness fall off to the passenger side.

24. Put the console in! Do NOT attach the side vanity plates yet, they will be in the way of the front bolts.

25. Repeat steps 9-15 putting things back together.

26. Attach 2x M6x1.00 bolts (inch long) bolts to front of console into bracket you connected to the dash earlier.

27. attach side trim on both sides. This may be a bit tight but it is possible!

28. attach your harnesses, or whatever you may have fabbed up to use the inverter/usb/cig lighters to the upper panel.

29. put the panel on.

30. You're done!

installation time: about 2 to 4 hours, probably less now that you have some instructions and know where everything is. The hardest part of this for me was fishing the jump seat harness out.

Make SURE prior to ordering your upper panel that you have the power inverter. If you do not, you can order a panel without the 110vac. I don't know what that one looks like or it's PN but I wish I had ordered it.

Also, as far as the usb goes, there is a standard usb port in the back. I wonder if the hmi unit would recognize a usb hub? Maybe we could run a wire from these to a hub, then from the hub to the connector under the passenger seat, to have all the ports working?

ravageur1972 · March 18, 2015

hub won'T work ....

if you come from jump to console, the only way you can have front usb usefull is to use them as charger.......and you need to plug it even in hmi and add power to connector

darkfox1 · March 18, 2015

hrmm, charging only is fine by me.

I guess I'm not sure why the usb unit has a harness and usb. from memory the "miniusb" like the connector doesn't generally do power, but I know full size has 12v and 5v feeds. I assume this would mean the small harness is somehow for that. If that's the case I just need to figure out a way to pull power off the cig lighter and dump it onto the usbs and thats resolved for charging. My thought was to get a little tiny label made up that says "charging only" and put it on the inside of the usb faceplate so that if I ever sell the truck, people won't be up in arms as to why its not working for data.

For the power inverter.. I've been considering buying a cig lighter power inverter, taking it apart, and connecting it to the factory plug. The part I'm not sure of is the LED on the pcb. Is that an AC LED? if I feed that board 110vac is it gonna be peachy? or is it gonna smoke? I don't wanna burn my truck up.

The third thing is the LED lights in the console. Does anyone know what voltage they are? We could again tap the cig lighter wires if they're 12v and get them to run all the time. If they're less.. well we'd need some sort of resistor or something to drop the voltage and wire them in that way. Currently one has no harness, the other has the harness cut and is taped up. (rearward facing unit)

darkfox1 · March 18, 2015

I hacked up the harness that came with the console and pulled the usb cable out of it.

About 2" from the brown connector there's a tag with a PN on it. 13924554. GMPD says this is not a GM part number. Perhaps its from the cable manufacturer.

I also cut the end off of the small harness that runs next to it in the connector. It has 6 pins.

Mangeta/blue, blue, black, purple, lime, grey. Purple lime and grey are twisted together in a shielded tape wrapped cable that splits off into 4 connectors on the large console connector on the other end. I'm not sure what this is for, but according to earlier posts in this thread, magenta/blue and black are 12v+ and ground. Based on USB 12/5 that SHOULD mean that the blue cable is 5v. The other 3 must be a form of bus for the HMI system to communicate with the usb connectors.

This is just a guess, but I'd say this is part of the "high speed bus" in the system.

So theoretically, if you wanted to connect all of those wires to the hmi unit on the other side, you should be able to get these connectors to be fully functional. You'd need the usb cable to plug into the hmi and this full harness.

Me personally.. I'm gonna go with charge only. So I'll be tying magenta/blue and black into the cig. lighter and using this connector.

darkfox1 · March 18, 2015

The next person that does this swap and DOES have the power inverter: can you please take a closeup picture of the harnesses that connect to it?

My theory to get the inverter to work is to pull a line off the cig lighter and run an aftermarket inverter that's hard wired below the console, then "plug in" to it with a standard plug and run that into the inverter in the console.

I'd probably wire an emergency shutoff switch in the glovebox.

Something like this maybe:

http://www.amazon.com/BESTEK%C2%AE-inverter-adapter-notebook-MRI1511FU/dp/B0040U3MI8/ref=lp_583328_1_13?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1426716582&sr=1-13

Inexpensive, not a lot of power, best feature here is the external cig lighter cord that I can cut, run from cig lighter to switch, to device.

ravageur1972 · March 19, 2015

for usb charging you need to connect a 12v+ and a ground behind the usb socket from memory i think it's terminal 4 and 6

for 110v you can easy install a aftermarket one but need to take power from other source than cigar plug , i suggest from battery through a relay controlled by ignition or accessory .....or just a switch (as you need it)

darkfox1 · March 19, 2015

yea, pin 4 should be black and 6 is magenta/blue on the harness I have here.

I am concerned that having the inverter, the usbs AND 2 cig lighters on one 15a fuse is a bit much. I wasn't looking for a lot of power, at least 95w on the inverter so that I can run my laptop on it if I need to.

I don't really wanna run wires all over the truck. I actually already own an 800w inverter that I carry around with me, but it has alligator clips and I'm not gonna hard wire that thing into my truck.

I'll probably do the inverter portion of it at a later date than the usb and cig lighter. (which I might do this weekend.)

darkfox1 · March 19, 2015

I fabbed up this wire harness for the cig lighter and usb connector using the chopped up harness that came with the console.

I'm assuming that the 3 usb port connector is the same as the one in the arm rest. (if it's not.. I'm in trouble. it looks the same tho!)

The ends will be crimped onto the existing single cig lighter harness in the truck, no soldering there. I don't wanna send that kinda heat into the wire.

darkfox1 · March 19, 2015

OK so that's tied in.

I have 12v at the 2nd cig and at the end of the usb connector but.. usb isn't charging/powering. I tested it with my iphone and a usb optical mouse. I got a red LED on the mouse in the console and charge on the phone but not at the usb ports in the console front.

I noticed Tbarn put a usb connector on his. Where did the other end of that usb connect? The hmi unit? isn't that behind the glovebox? I have an extra usb cable. Perhaps the cable needs to be connected for the 12v to work. OR.. iphone uses 5v?? (surely not..)

darkfox1 · March 20, 2015

Power and ground to the 6 pin connector and USB cable connected to the outlet and HMI control module. There must be some type of communication because I have always on power and ground to the USB outlet. Yet it goes to sleep about ten minutes after key off or opening door. and wakes up when the driver door is opened or key is on.The correct 6 pin connector is very expensive so I just used the terminals and shrink tube to keep from shorting. I would have to find the part numbers for the terminals. The cable I bought ( the only we could find in the GM part catalog ) plugs into the outlet but not into the module without some customizing. Had to shave the connector down with a razor blade.

To refresh everyone's memory.

Tbarn notes here that the usb ports go to sleep despite having 12v constant. This means that the usb connector is telling the ports to turn on with the hmi unit more than likely. MEANING.. I need to plug my usb in and should then have 12v charging at the front of my console.

The other pins are (most likely......) 5v (pin 5) and then 3 other connectors for the vehicle's internal data bus. I'm not sure where it's going or why, but these 3 wires are shielded in the console ip harness. POTENTIALLY you could tie them to the ip harness for the jumpseat? but I woudln't recommend it.. who knows what that would do.

Also in reading the threads I confirmed that the console LEDs ARE 12V. So.. the next time I have the console out ( never again..) I'll wire them up with the cig lighter.