Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

You don't use the jump seat harness to power the front ports. All you do is buy T connectors and jump power from the front 12v to the other. Yes you can run a dedicated line if you like but not needed. The only thing that will not work are the 3 USB ports. You can get them to charge only but I just left them I don't use them anyway.

Posted

20160313_193622_resized.jpg

 

Posting this pic hoping it helps someone. This the connector from the new full length console. It should be self explaining. Multi colored wire on left goes to Rear Cig 12v outlet, the multi wire to the left of it goes to inside console Cig 12v. The large black wire is ground, The white/brown wire is the console light. All the other small wires connect to the usb ports inside console & sound port in console. The mini USB is one black wire all to its self as marked.

Posted

20160313_193622_resized.jpg

 

Posting this pic hoping it helps someone. This the connector from the new full length console. It should be self explaining. Multi colored wire on left goes to Rear Cig 12v outlet, the multi wire to the left of it goes to inside console Cig 12v. The large black wire is ground, The white/brown wire is the console light. All the other small wires connect to the usb ports inside console & sound port in console. The mini USB is one black wire all to its self as marked.

Is that a 2016 console? What part number?

 

Sent from my BlackBerry Priv. The power of Android combined with the security of BlackBerry.

Posted (edited)

I ordered #22995069 Black Console. However, they sent #23466980 Black Console because the #'s have updated & changed.

 

Tried to do this from phone but had to get to computer.

Edited by Rocky Ridge
Posted (edited)

I ordered #22995069 Black Console. However, they sent #2346680 Black Console because the #'s have updated & changed.

I ordered #22995069 Black Console. However, they sent #2346680 Black Console because the #'s have updated & changed.

Will you double check the 2346680 part number I think you may be 1 number short.

 

Is the number 23466980? I'm still trying to determine if there is anything different about the 16 console and wiring vs the ones that others have ordered for the 14-15. Does someone with a 16 console know if the media card slot still exists in the 16 model?

Edited by MWZotti
Posted

The console connector in the pic is from console #23466980. I ordered it for a 2014 Sierra a week ago. They sub in this #'d console for the #22995069 console I originally ordered. So, the only black one out there is #23466980. The other # ending in 5069 is discontinued.

Posted

The console connector in the pic is from console #23466980. I ordered it for a 2014 Sierra a week ago. They sub in this #'d console for the #22995069 console I originally ordered. So, the only black one out there is #23466980. The other # ending in 5069 is discontinued.

Thanks.

 

Sent from my BlackBerry Priv. The power of Android combined with the security of BlackBerry.

Posted

Anyone know where the fuse is located for the Front Dash 12V Cig plug on a 2014 Sierra? That has the 110v plug & 12v plug beside it? I checked fuses under hood & none where blown, the small ones that is. The 12v plug is dead.

Posted (edited)

Anyone know where the fuse is located for the Front Dash 12V Cig plug on a 2014 Sierra? That has the 110v plug & 12v plug beside it? I checked fuses under hood & none where blown, the small ones that is. The 12v plug is dead.

I believe the fuse for that is on the left side of the dash - you need to open the driver door and there are 6 clips holding the side of the dash on - I believe it is in the same spot as the suburban/tahoe

 

careful not to break those clips

Edited by jamesonjc
Posted

I've got a 15 gmc 2500hd slt with center jump seat early build .. bought a new take off center console from a 2015i gmc 2500hd.. with the wireless charger.. i looked up harnesses and it only shows 2 diff ones.. one with dvd and one w/o dvd.. does anyone know if this will plug into my truck or need to splice in other components. thanks and i did read every page over last 2 days lol...

thank you

Posted

Thanks JamesonJC.............I was just over looking it in the panel & finally found it, it's the 15a fuse in far upper right, one of those new square purple top fuse.

Posted

20160315_190102.jpg[/url]

 

You can install the newer GMC in lid charger from 2015/16 console. You will need the complete lid & charger. Wire it into the back 12v plug. It's got 3 wires, black is ground, multi colored is positive. You will not use the green. It will turn on with key & turn off with key this way.

Posted

20160315_190102.jpg[/url]

 

You can install the newer GMC in lid charger from 2015/16 console. You will need the complete lid & charger. Wire it into the back 12v plug. It's got 3 wires, black is ground, multi colored is positive. You will not use the green. It will turn on with key & turn off with key this way.

 

my console had the charging lid and theres a wire hanging down underneath console is that the whole charger or do i need more?also where do i get the plug in connector for the merc switch and led light.. theres 2 connectors or plugs i need thanks

Posted

I've read through this thread as this is one of the mods I'd like to do. To date has anyone gotten every port to work correctly like OEM?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,758
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Randy Ginoza
    Newest Member
    Randy Ginoza
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,916 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...