Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Out of curiosity, how are these hooked up in vehicles with factory center consoles? Do those have a different HMI?

Same way. For trucks with them already, the connections are up front. They may not have a glove box USB, so they use the green port of the HMI for one of the USB Hubs data feed and the black port for the inside compartment hub feed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted (edited)

Placed an order for the console setup back on June 30 from gmpartsnow and the order status is still "On Order" with an ETA of N/A. Haven't heard a word from them though my card was charged.

 

Update: It shipped today.

Edited by Osirus
Posted

20 minutes and counting of trying to disconnect the plugs from the existing 110V plug. My thumb is bloodied and ruined and getting nowhere.

Posted
20 minutes and counting of trying to disconnect the plugs from the existing 110V plug. My thumb is bloodied and ruined and getting nowhere.

The release on one of the plugs is hidden by the other plug. So have to remove the one side that you have access to first.

You almost have to use your finger nail or a small screwdriver to push the release in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
1 hour ago, pgamboa said:


The release on one of the plugs is hidden by the other plug. So have to remove the one side that you have access to first.

You almost have to use your finger nail or a small screwdriver to push the release in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks man. I got everything hooked up.

 

USB ports inside the console have power but not media, says no USB connected.

 

Also I didn't put the side panels on before the console was in place so I might have to loosen it back out and put them on.

  • Like 1
Posted
Thanks man. I got everything hooked up.
 
USB ports inside the console have power but not media, says no USB connected.
 
Also I didn't put the side panels on before the console was in place so I might have to loosen it back out and put them on.

Did you connect USB cables to the hubs? They are needed for USB Data Logic.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
5 minutes ago, pgamboa said:


Did you connect USB cables to the hubs? They are needed for USB Data Logic.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, black to brown from the output of the 2-port hub on the front of the console to the brown connector inside the console. if I disconnected it the ports inside the console lost power, but they never had data.

  • Like 1
Posted
Yeah, black to brown from the output of the 2-port hub on the front of the console to the brown connector inside the console. if I disconnected it the ports inside the console lost power, but they never had data.

So this is from the Front HUB that feeds the inside compartment hub. What about from the HMI to the front hub? Should be either a black to grey or green to gray? If you don’t have a cable from the HMI to the front hub, that’s the missing input link.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
9 hours ago, pgamboa said:


So this is from the Front HUB that feeds the inside compartment hub. What about from the HMI to the front hub? Should be either a black to grey or green to gray? If you don’t have a cable from the HMI to the front hub, that’s the missing input link.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There's black to gray from the HMI to the front hub. USB drives are working fine in the front hub of the console. I'll look at it more later today.

 

Unrelated, do the side trim pieces go on before or after the top piece?

  • Like 1
Posted
There's black to gray from the HMI to the front hub. USB drives are working fine in the front hub of the console. I'll look at it more later today.
 
Unrelated, do the side trim pieces go on before or after the top piece?

There have been reports of the front hub not passing the USB Data Logic to the inside compartment one. We don’t know why. In this case, you’ll need that green to gray cable. If you have a Glove Box USB, you’ll have to omit that. Then use that port to feed the front hub. Then the black to Brown will go directly from HMI (black port) to inside compartment brown port.

As for side trim black skirt panels, they go on last. If you’re having a hard time with driver side, it’s most likely because you didn’t remove the plastic covers on the driver side metal Support brace.

The “Hook” on the driver side panel hooks onto metal. The plastic cover pieces that are there now block the hook. You have to pop those off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted
9 minutes ago, pgamboa said:


There have been reports of the front hub not passing the USB Data Logic to the inside compartment one. We don’t know why. In this case, you’ll need that green to gray cable. If you have a Glove Box USB, you’ll have to omit that. Then use that port to feed the front hub. Then the black to Brown will go directly from HMI (black port) to inside compartment brown port.

As for side trim black skirt panels, they go on last. If you’re having a hard time with driver side, it’s most likely because you didn’t remove the plastic covers on the driver side metal Support brace.

The “Hook” on the driver side panel hooks onto metal. The plastic cover pieces that are there now block the hook. You have to pop those off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, I have the old plastic from the driver side taken off. I haven't even tried to install it yet, though. Gonna pop the top back off and double check the connections.

Posted
9 minutes ago, pgamboa said:


There have been reports of the front hub not passing the USB Data Logic to the inside compartment one. We don’t know why. In this case, you’ll need that green to gray cable. If you have a Glove Box USB, you’ll have to omit that. Then use that port to feed the front hub. Then the black to Brown will go directly from HMI (black port) to inside compartment brown port.

As for side trim black skirt panels, they go on last. If you’re having a hard time with driver side, it’s most likely because you didn’t remove the plastic covers on the driver side metal Support brace.

The “Hook” on the driver side panel hooks onto metal. The plastic cover pieces that are there now block the hook. You have to pop those off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What doesn't make sense to me on that. Is my inside and outside pass Android auto and carplay fine. The inside one however does not pass USB media. 

  • Like 1
Posted
What doesn't make sense to me on that. Is my inside and outside pass Android auto and carplay fine. The inside one however does not pass USB media. 

That’s ingesting... if the both pass car play, then USB Data and Power are working... hmmm..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

I wonder if its an issue with the inside hub not getting enough power? Carplay, etc just need a data connection since the phones themselves still have battery power so they work, but USB drives aren't getting enough juice to power on the device and get recognized. Just a thought.

Posted (edited)
14 minutes ago, Osirus said:

I wonder if its an issue with the inside hub not getting enough power? Carplay, etc just need a data connection since the phones themselves still have battery power so they work, but USB drives aren't getting enough juice to power on the device and get recognized. Just a thought.

Possible however, that port will charge my phone with out issue and the usbstick i put in there lights up. I havnt tested the aux jack in there either. There should be a way to wire the glove and the external and internal usb. At least one user here had a bad usb port up front, but with his scnario he had nothing working from the rear.

Edited by zikronix

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...