2013 Sierra, 13,000 miles, Issues

[DeePa]

OK,

So I purchased a new 2013 sierra in june and now have 13,000 miles on it. SLT Trim, ext cab, 6 ft bed. I have the following issues and I need help. The dealer is useless. I'm looking for correct TSB's that apply to my model year truck so I can hand them to the dealer and say fix it.

 

There is a driveline clunk. If you rock the truck back and forth while parked, you can hear a audible and loud click/clunk and actually see the driveshaft move a lot. The dealer spec'd out the lash in the rear end and that passed. I feel the issue is further up the driveline in the transfer case. Recently, I put it in 4HI, the light illuminated, and there was a loud clunk when the front axles engaged. I'm surprised I didn't blow up the CV joints. When in stop and go traffic, after I slow down with the brakes, when I get back on the gas regardless of how far I push the pedal down, there is a clunk and then the truck starts to move. Not a normal driveline taking up any lash. I understand that, this is excessive.

 

There is a ton of road noise which happened a few months or so after the GM bug deflector install. There is a loud popping and cracking from the windshield at highway speeds...Annoying as hell...

 

The muffler makes a racket due to heat expansion...Again, wicked annoying.

 

This last issue happened a few days ago and still persists...the power mirror on the drivers side adjusts all the way down when the doors are unlocked from the key fob. The memory function does not restore it to the correct position where I have it set to. I have to manually adjust the mirror every time I use the truck. Awful...

 

Can anyone help me out here? I'm getting sick of this truck and thinking I should have looked elsewhere.

Thanks,

 

Mike

[oldmann]

The rear view mirror problem is a mirror setting in the DIC. The clunk going into 4wd happens sometimes, It is ok.

[SILVERADOSC540]

The wind noise/ windshield popping is from the bug deflector. The windshield can be fixed with a thin bead of black silicone down the sides of the windshield/ trim pieces. (Or remove the bug deflector.)

[mike94silverado]

The wind noise/ windshield popping is from the bug deflector. The windshield can be fixed with a thin bead of black silicone down the sides of the windshield/ trim pieces. (Or remove the bug deflector.)

I had this with the GM accessories one... Tried a lund and it made no noice

[gmtech4]

wow,

[GMCustomerService]

Hi Mike,

 

I’m sorry to hear that you are experiencing problems with your vehicle. I would like to take a better look into this for you. If I can be of any assistance, can you please private message me your full name, phone number, address, current mileage, and preferred dealership? Thank you.

 

Kristen A.

GM Customer Care

[redtherocket]

Get used to the clunk.

 

It won't be fixed through GM.

 

I have a 2013 with 17,000km on it, and its had this clunk since I got it.

 

The dealer even replaced the driveshaft with no luck.

 

 

Its the transmission. When it shifts between 2-3 or 3-2, there is an instance of "torque reversal" on the drive shaft... Causing a "bung" or "clunk".

 

Sometimes its not loud, sometimes its retarded loud, and in my opinion, it absolutely ****ing ridiculous tat a brand new truck do something like this.

 

 

After extensive research, I've come to live with the noise. Its gotten no worse, and I've adapted to it.

 

 

GM tells there customers the clunk and noise is normal, and the truck was engineered like that....

 

I told them the noise is a product of piss poor engineering...

 

 

 

 

This is my first, and last GMC Sierra.... What a mistake to switch from Ford.

 

I'm already pricing to get back into a real truck..

[2017SierraSLT]

My '13 has never had a noise. Saying it is normal is a total cop out. Some people have has success by removing the shaft, cleaning the yoke of rust and dirt, then lightly greasing it with synthetic grease.

[SILVERADOSC540]

Get used to the clunk.

 

It won't be fixed through GM.

 

I have a 2013 with 17,000km on it, and its had this clunk since I got it.

 

The dealer even replaced the driveshaft with no luck.

 

 

Its the transmission. When it shifts between 2-3 or 3-2, there is an instance of "torque reversal" on the drive shaft... Causing a "bung" or "clunk".

 

Sometimes its not loud, sometimes its retarded loud, and in my opinion, it absolutely ****ing ridiculous tat a brand new truck do something like this.

 

 

After extensive research, I've come to live with the noise. Its gotten no worse, and I've adapted to it.

 

 

GM tells there customers the clunk and noise is normal, and the truck was engineered like that....

 

I told them the noise is a product of piss poor engineering...

 

 

 

 

This is my first, and last GMC Sierra.... What a mistake to switch from Ford.

 

I'm already pricing to get back into a real truck..

By real truck are you referring to the Ford? All brands have issues, as nothing in life is perfect. The ecoboost has started a class action lawsuit, the Raptors can't be driven as advertised without bending the frame, and now the 2015 aluminum rollout is in jeopardy because of issues with the aluminum panels. GM has just as many issues I'm sure, but I'm also sure that it still qualifies as a "real truck". The clunk should be covered for 5 years or 100,000 miles. (40,000 miles more Ford), I would suggest taking it to a different dealership to see if they will work with you to resolve the situation.

[hzhardy]

my 2005 Denali had a drive line clunk as well, there was a TSB to lubricate the drive shaft yoke. I don't know if this could be the same issue but it is worth taking a look at.

 

Document ID# 1580377





Subject: Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or
Accelerating from Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop
(Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke) #01-04-17-004B -
(01/05/2005)







Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade (Old Style)



2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT



2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV



1996-1999 Chevrolet 1500 Series Extended Cab Short Box Pickup (Old Style)



1996-1999 Chevrolet 1500 Series Regular Cab Pickup and Utility Models (Old Style)



1999-2002 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab Short Box (New Style)



1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Series Regular Cab (New Style)



2000-2004 Chevrolet 1500 Series Avalanche, Suburban and Tahoe



2001-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500/3500 Series Regular Cab with Long Bed or Extended Cab (New Style)



2001-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 Series Crew Cab, Short Box (New Style)



1996-1999 GMC 1500 Series Extended Cab Short Box Pickup (Old Style)



1996-1999 GMC 1500 Series Regular Cab Pickup and Utility Models (Old Style)



1999-2002 GMC Sierra Extended Cab Short Box (New Style)



1999-2004 GMC Sierra 1500 Series Regular Cab (New Style)



2000-2004 GMC 1500 Series Yukon, Yukon XL



2001-2004 GMC Sierra 2500/3500 Series Regular Cab with Long Bed or Extended Cab (New Style)



2001-2004 GMC Sierra 2500 Series Crew Cab, Short Box (New Style)



2003-2005 HUMMER H2



with Four Wheel Drive (4WD) or All Wheel Drive (AWD) and One-Piece Propeller Shaft ONLY



This bulletin is being revised to add Cadillac Escalade (Old Style) and
HUMMER H2 to the Models section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-04-17-004A (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).



Condition

Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the
vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.



Cause

A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the driveshaft slip yoke may cause this condition.



Diagnostic Tips

There are several resources in the electronic Service Information System
which can provide the technician with information on diagnosis and
repair of clunk conditions, and fix the customer's vehicle right the
first time without unnecessary parts replacement. Some of the documents
available in SI include:



• Symptoms - Propeller Shaft (SI Document ID #697266)



• Knock or Clunk Noise (SI Document ID #697290)



• Rear Drive Axle Noises (SI Document ID #700580)



• Launch Shudder/Vibration on Acceleration (Replace Propeller Shaft and
Install a New Pinion Flange/Seal), Bulletin #02-04-17-001



• Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise, Bulletin #01-07-30-042



• Driveline Clunk When Stopping (Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Bulletin #03-07-30-028



Correction

Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel-plated slip yoke. See the parts table below.



Follow the service procedure below.



Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information (SI Document ID #349918).

Reference mark the propeller shaft to the pinion flange connection.

Important: Do not pound on the propeller shaft yoke ears. Never pry or place any tool between a yoke and a universal joint.



Remove the bolts and the yoke retainers from the pinion flange.

Slide the propeller shaft forward and out of the rear pinion flange.

Lower the rear of the propeller shaft and pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case.

Notice: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could
dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always
clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid
damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or
cut the lip seal.



Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press.

Important: Remove the front slip yoke and the universal joint together.
The new nickel-plated slip yoke comes with a new universal joint.



Disassemble the snap rings by pinching the ends together with a pair of pliers.

If the ring does not readily snap out of the groove in the yoke, tap the
end of the cup lightly in order to relieve the pressure from the ring.







Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported
on a 30 mm (1-1/8 in) hex head socket or a 27 mm (1-1/16 in) socket.







Place the J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear.

If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and
insert the J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are
removing. Continue pressing the bearing cup out of the yoke.

Rotate the propeller shaft . Press the opposite bearing cup out of the drive shaft yoke.

Remove the old slip yoke and universal joint.

Inspect the retaining ring grooves for dirt, corrosion, or pieces of the old ring.

Inspect the bearing cup bores for burrs or imperfections.

Clean the retaining ring grooves. Corrosion, dirt, rust, or pieces of
the old retaining ring may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into
place or prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating.

Install the new nickel-plated slip yoke and universal joint. See parts table below for parts information.

Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.







Assemble one bearing cup part way into one side of the yoke. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom.

Assemble the cross into the yoke so that the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.







With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into
the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear.

Install the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear.

Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups.

Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross
all the time in order to inspect for free unbinding movement of the
trunnions in the bearing cups.

Important: If there seems to be a hang up or binding, stop pressing.
Inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup



Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup retainer groove is visible over the top of the bearing cup.

Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove.

Continue pressing until both retainers can be snapped into place.







If the retainer is difficult to seat, the yoke can be sprung slightly with a firm blow from a soft-faced dead blow hammer.

It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of
chassis grease so that the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove.

Install the slip yoke onto the output shaft in the transfer case.

Align the reference marks on the pinion flange and the propeller shaft.

Install the yoke retainers and bolts.

Tighten

Tighten the yoke retainer bolts to 25 N·m (19 lb ft).



Lower the vehicle.

Parts Information

Part Number

Description

Usage



12477702

Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (with u-joint) , Nickel Plated

4WD/AWD 1500 Series Ext Cab Short Box Pickups (New Style and Old Style)



12477704

Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (with u-joint) , Nickel Plated

4WD/AWD 2500 Series Ext Cab Short Box Pickups (New Style)



12479383

Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (without u-joint) , Nickel Plated



Must Be Ordered With U-Joint Kit P/N 12479126

4WD/AWD 1500 Series Silverado, Sierra Regular Cab Pickups (New Style)



4WD/AWD 1500 Series Suburban, Avalanche, Yukon XL, Escalade EXT, Escalade ESV with AWD (New Style)



K1500 Series Regular Cab Pickup, Tahoe, Suburban, Escalade (Old Style)



12479384

Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip, (without u-joint) , Nickel Plated



Must Be Ordered With U-Joint Kit P/N 12479126

4WD/AWD 1500 Series Tahoe, Yukon, Escalade w/ 4WD or AWD (New Style)



12479385

Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (without u-joint) , Nickel Plated



Must Be Ordered With U-Joint Kit P/N 12471510

4WD/AWD 2500HD/3500 Series Silverado and Sierra Regular Cab, Long Bed Pickups with 6.0L (RPO LQ4) Engine (New Style)



89058876

Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (with u-joint) , Nickel Plated

4WD/AWD 2500HD Series Silverado and Sierra Crew Cab, Short Bed Pickups with 5-Speed Allison Transmission (RPO M74) (New Style)



4WD 2500HD/3500 Series Silverado and Sierra Extended Cab Long Bed
Pickups with 5-Speed Allison Transmission (RPO M74) (New Style)



4WD 2500HD/3500 Series Silverado and Sierra Regular Cab, Long Bed
Pickups with 5-Speed Allison Transmission (RPO M74 build date before
2/2004) (New Style)



4WD/AWD 2500HD Series Silverado and Sierra Extended Cab, Short Bed
Pickups with 5-Speed Allison Transmission (RPO M74 build date before
2/2004) (New Style)



89058878

Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (with u-joint) , Nickel Plated

4WD/AWD 2500HD/3500 Series Silverado and Sierra Extended Cab Pickups with 6.0L (RPO LQ4) Engine (New Style)



4WD 2500HD Series Silverado and Sierra Crew Cab, Short Bed Pickups with 6.0L (RPO LQ4) Engine (New Style)



89058880

Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (with u-joint) , Nickel Plated

4WD/AWD 2500HD/3500 Series Silverado and Sierra Regular Cab, Long Bed
Pickups with 5-Speed Allison Transmission (RPO M74 build date after
2/2004) or 6-Speed Manual Transmission (RPO ML6) (New Style)



4WD 2500HD Series Silverado and Sierra Extended Cab, Short Bed Pickups
with 5-Speed Allison Transmission (RPO M74 build date after 2/2004) or
6-Speed Manual Transmission (RPO ML6) (New Style)



12479126

U Joint Kit

4WD/AWD 1500 Series Silverado, Sierra Regular Cab Pickups (New Style)



4WD 1500 Series Suburban, Avalanche, Yukon XL) (Escalade EXT, Escalade ESV with AWD (New Style)



4WD 1500 Regular Cab Pickup, Tahoe, Suburban, Escalade (Old Style)



Tahoe, Yukon, Escalade w/ 4WD or AWD (New Style)



12471510

U Joint Kit

4WD/AWD 2500HD/3500 Series Silverado and Sierra Regular Cab, Long Bed Pickups with 6.0L (RPO LQ4) Engine (New Style)



88964470

Yoke Asm., Prop Sft Slip (without U joint) Nickel Plated



Must be ordered with U joint kit P/N 88964507

HUMMER H2



88964507

U-Joint

HUMMER H2





Parts are currently available from GMSPO.



Warranty Information

For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:



Labor Operation

Description

Labor Time



F0060

Slip Joint, Propeller Shaft - Replace

0.6 hr









GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a
"do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of
conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information
that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained
technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how
to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT
assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle
will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether
your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION





© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.



********************************************************************************

************

Here's another one of interest......





Document ID# 1828818





Subject: Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise #01-07-30-042D - (05/16/2006)







Models: 2007 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks



2003-2007 HUMMER H2



2006-2007 HUMMER H3



2005-2007 Saab 9-7X



with 4L60-E or 4L65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32)





This bulletin is being revised to add the 2007 model years and include
passenger cars. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-042C
(Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).





Important: For 2005 model year fullsize utilities and pickups, refer to Corporate Bulletin 05-07-30-012.



Some vehicles may exhibit a clunk noise that can be heard on a 2-3 upshift or a 3-2 downshift.



During a 2-3 upshift, the 2-4 band is released and the 3-4 clutch is
applied. The timing of this shift can cause a momentary torque reversal
of the output shaft that results in a clunk noise. This same torque
reversal can also occur on a 3-2 downshift when the 3-4 clutch is
released and the 2-4 band applied. This condition may be worse on a
4-wheel drive vehicle due to the additional tolerances in the transfer
case.



This is a normal condition. No repairs should be attempted.



********************************************************************************

************

And here's yet another.......





Document ID# 1656286







Subject: 4L60-E/4L65-E Automatic Transmission 2-3 Shift Clunk (Reprogram
Powertrain Control Module (PCM)) #05-07-30-012 - (05/09/2005)







Models: 2005 Cadillac Escalade



2005 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe



2005 GMC Sierra, Yukon



with 4L60-E (RPO M30) or 4L65-E (RPO M32) Automatic Transmission





Condition

Some customers may comment on a 2-3 shift clunk noise. Typically, this
clunk noise is most noticeable when the 2-3 shift occurs under
approximately 48 km/h (30 mph).



Correction

Important:



• The PCM calibrations may REDUCE but not ELIMINATE the 2-3 shift clunk.



• This bulletin only applies to the 2005 model year vehicles listed above.



• As always, make sure your TECH 2® is updated with the latest software version.





To determine if this calibration will help to reduce 2-3 shift clunk,
use the Tech 2 to navigate to the transmission diagnostic section and
view the 2-3 shift adapt cells.

• If the 2-3 adapt cell values are negative, this calibration change will have minimal benefit in reducing the 2-3 shift clunk.



• If the 2-3 adapt cell values are above approximately + 5 psi, this
calibration may provide a reduction in the 2-3 shift clunk.



Important: These calibrations also contain the second gear start correction as detailed in bulletin 05-07-30-013.



Technicians are to reprogram the PCM with an updated software
calibration. This new service calibration was released with TIS
satellite data update version 5 or later available May 1, 2005. Refer to
Service Programming System (SPS) in Vehicle Control Systems in the
appropriate SI Document.

Warranty Information

For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:



Labor Operation

Description

Labor Time



J6355

Module, Powertrain Control - Transmission Reprogramming

Use Current Published Labor Time


above was taken from following thread http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/62281-anyone-have-the-tsb-for-the-rear-end-clunk/ and was originally posted by MS3dale

[Cowpie]

I got my 2013 Silverado LT 5.3L Z71 Crew the first of June and have never experienced any "clunk". Many who had the Jeep Liberty Diesel, like me, experienced a similar thing with their transmissions. I have always been a little proactive with my fluids and lubes and I drop all factory fill fluids and oils within the first 3000 miles. I did it with the Jeep, and never experienced the trans issues like a lot of people. I did it to my 2013 Silverado as well. Trans, diffs, transfer, engine. Everything got the factory fluids replaced (engine first at 1190 miles) before 3000 miles. To see the transfer case fluid that drained out, I wanted to feel sick. Sick brown color and the magnetic drain plug looked like a fuzzy bear who stuck its tongue in a wall outlet with all the metal shavings on it. The rear diff was a full pint and half low. Everything got full synthetic fluids all the way around.

 

Evidently, quality control when it comes to fluids and oils is not on the high priority list of things at the assembly plants. Either way, I am glad I changed everything out early on. Not sure if that has prevented and "clunk" in the trans or not, but I have not experienced it.

[redtherocket]

By real truck are you referring to the Ford? All brands have issues, as nothing in life is perfect. The ecoboost has started a class action lawsuit, the Raptors can't be driven as advertised without bending the frame, and now the 2015 aluminum rollout is in jeopardy because of issues with the aluminum panels. GM has just as many issues I'm sure, but I'm also sure that it still qualifies as a "real truck". The clunk should be covered for 5 years or 100,000 miles. (40,000 miles more Ford), I would suggest taking it to a different dealership to see if they will work with you to resolve the situation.

 

 

 

 

 

You sound like the guys at the dealership..

 

 

[SILVERADOSC540]

I don't believe the clunk to be normal as the dealership that you went to does. I do believe that all manufacturers have some issues. I'm sorry that your issue has driven you to another brand. I wish you the best.

[DeePa]

All,

 

I just wanted to apologize for taking so long to get back to this thread. I have some updates for everyone. The dealer fixed the windshield noise per the TSB by removing the windshield trim, applying 3m tape, and putting them back on. The issue is fixed. The mirrors started to work ok after i reprogrammed them like six times. The dealer erased all memory from that system and they are working at the moment.

 

I did not mention the driveline clunk to them as the last time was a fight with them. They insisted it was normal, so i pushed/rocked the truck in park and they could hear the lound click/clunk. They told me it was a parking pawl so I walked over to another '13 truck like mine on the lot, rocked it, and no noise was made. The service advisor went for a ride and found the condition at low speeds and they took apart the rear diff and measured lash which was in spec. I feel the noise is coming from the transmission/transfer case which they did not check out whatsoever and refused to do so. The loud 4wd bang I heard reaffirms my toughts about the noise as I can hear/feel it under my feet rather than back at the rear of the truck.

 

This is not your normal GM clunk. My 04 developed a clunk after 140,000 hard miles and I was ok with that. This truck started off silent and after about 4-5000 miles, the clunk developed and started to get louder, more frequent. I bought this truck because my 04 had 168,000 on it and I put a lot of travel miles for my second job on it. I cannot get stranded 400 miles from home and this truck was supposed to fix this issue, but now I am somewhat concerned about its reliability so many miles from home.

Thanks for all of your help, and I will be contacting the GM Service rep who responded to my first post.

 

FWIW about other dealers...I contacted a chevy dealer 2 miles from my home and they wanted nothing to do with me. They said the TSB was only for 07-11 trucks even after I asked if they redesigned the windshield, its mouldings, and if any part numbers were updated...

They said the clunk was normal and they were 3 weeks out for an appointment, after they initially said one when i first said i needed an oil change. They said I was programming the mirrors incorrecetly and for me to read my owners manual. The dealer is Paul Masse Chevy/GMC located in East Providence, RI. They are awful and just want your money, not to service the brands that they sell.

 

My current dealer is Hurd GMC in Johnston, RI, and they have been trying to help but refused to look further into my clunk issue.

Mike