Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Anyone look into buying Fox 2.0 series shocks or coil overs for these trucks? I've heard awesome things about them as well, they're also adjustable so you can level the truck with them as well. I know they are rather pricey though.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I have Kings on order....should be here next week. I'll post up once they're installed.

Posted

Im happy with my rancho shocks on my AT except for speed bumps is like a trampoline

Same here...are these other shocks better for speed bumps and other similar rise/dips
  • Like 1
Posted

Thought about bilsteins when I first got the truck. After driving for a while I'm satisfied with the ride quality on gravel roads. A little stiff but not near as bad as the fx4 I was driving. The rear end only kicked out on me once when hitting a series of small bumps. The Ford did it way more often but it also was less severe when it did. If the truck isn't leaving pavement I wouldn't recommend the z71 to begin with.

Posted

After having Tenneco, Rancho, and Bilstein shocks on these trucks, my opinion is that the Rancho's are the "bounciest" or the ones that give you the most "trampoline" feel, and the Bilstiens were by far the greatest. They're stiff to the point of not feeling like a trampoline, but not so stiff that the ride quality suffers. They're just an all around great shock for these trucks both on and off road, hauling/towing or regular driving. I plan to get some as soon as they become available.

Posted (edited)

I have a Silverado LT double cab with a very harsh ride (IMO) - especially speed bumps like in store parking lots - a very hard bump at 5mph over the speed bumps - also harsh simply driving over RR tracks, bumps in the road, etc.

 

Don't know what shocks I have but this is what is printed on the black barrel of the rear shocks: AA 7A, OE18430/22891328. I've lowered the tire pressure from 35# all around to 33# all around w/o any ride difference.

 

What shocks do I have, and what would I want for a smother (less harsh) ride for city 75% and hwy 25%?

 

So I have:

B-SABSORBER Make : Chevrolet

Part#: 22891328

But still, no idea of the 'brand/manufacture

----------

Silverado-Hareek comes thru - they must be Tenneco shocks.

Edited by Retired Bob
Posted

I have a Silverado LT double cab with a very harsh ride (IMO) - especially speed bumps like in store parking lots - a very hard bump at 5mph over the speed bumps - also harsh simply driving over RR tracks, bumps in the road, etc.

 

Don't know what shocks I have but this is what is printed on the black barrel of the rear shocks: AA 7A, OE18430/22891328. I've lowered the tire pressure from 35# all around to 33# all around w/o any ride difference.

 

What shocks do I have, and what would I want for a smother (less harsh) ride for city 75% and hwy 25%?

 

Black ones should be Tenneco. They're designed for a smoother ride versus the Rancho shocks on the Z71's. I still think Bilsteins would improve your ride tremendously though even though they're stiffer.

 

Anyone know if the official 2014 Bilsteins are out yet?

 

Not yet. Don't know what's taking them so long.......

Posted

Isn't the suspension a carryover from the gmt900? If so the shock will probably be identical.

 

Very similar but not 100% the same. Although yes, the part number for Bilstein's that fit a 2013 will fit a 2014. Bilstein has said they will be releasing a 2014 specific shock that has different valving.

Posted

I put Bilstein 5100 on my GMC A/T all the way around and enjoyed a big improvement, just ordered the ones that fit the 2007-2013 models.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,888
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    xdieselmechanic
    Newest Member
    xdieselmechanic
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 520 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...