Jump to content

Passenger Carpet Soaked Underneath Floormat


Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone run into this issue? My passenger side front carpet is soaked when I picked up the floor mat to go ahead and vacuum. It's only wet underneath the factory Floormat. No I did not spill anything. Any thoughts?

Posted

on star atenna, sun roof or heater core not sure if the long life coolant still has that sweet smell

Posted

Trying to narrow it down. I don't have a sunroof. It's deffinately water and the passenger floor is no where near any roof attena

Posted

Do you have airconditiong, maybe the evaporator drain is off and the water is not routed to the outside of truck.

Just a guess here. Body Grommets, or floor pan seals missing, handbrake rubber grommet damaged?

Posted

Heater cores have been known to go out early on these 14's. Check your coolant level to cross that one off your list of possibilities.

Posted

When I had a 2001 Dodge Dakota, the passenger side carpet would always get soaked and short out the air bag causing a light to go off in my dash. For years my Dad and I chased the problem to no avail. Finally I started to notice that the problem occurred more in the summer than in the winter so I started to speculate that it might be related to the AC. Sure enough I ran the truck with the AC on and started feeling around under the carpet with my hand and I could feel a slow steady drip of cold water coming from below the dash. Long story short Dodge, and most other Chrysler vehicles including Jeep, had an issue where the condensate drain for the AC would get clogged with insects and it wouldn't drain. The condensate would back up and start overflowing behind the dash and draining into the interior of the truck. My mechanic could blow compressed air through the drain line under the truck and that would help for a few days but eventually the insect debris would work its way back toward the drain line and clog it again. The only fix was to pull the dash out and clean the condensate line from the inside and try to put some type of protective netting to keep insects from getting back in.

 

So, if you do not have water coming from your ceiling which would most likely be the leaking XM/Onstar antenna issue, my money is on your AC condensate backing up into the truck.

Posted

So my coolant level is normal and my A/C is draining in the proper spot after checking. This rules out the heater core and evaporator issues. No spots on headliner. Washed the truck prior to vaccuuming so water is coming in from somewhere. Goes to the dealer tomorrow I'm hoping they figure it out. Took off the kick plate and water was trapped under the insulalation and carpeting.

Posted

Might have a bad seal on the windshield. I know a guy that had a leaky windshield (not a 2014) from the factory, so don't rule that out.

 

Some were having problems with the OnStar antenna seal leaking on the drivers side.

Posted

Take a close look at your front windshield lower weatherstripping that intersects with the bottom of the glass, i.e. between the hood and the windshield where the wiper arms are. That seal was not fitted properly on my new '14 Sierra Denali and in fact had a 1/8th-3/16" gap, requiring the dealer to change it as a OEM defect. Luckily I noticed it when I inspected my vehicle the day of purchase otherwise could have easily ended up with some water encroachment as the weatherstripping was not touching the glass.

Posted

Believe it or not, I had the same problem and it turned out to be the seal around my 3rd brake light.. When ever it would rain it would travel all the way to the front and soak the passenger floor. That was on a 2001 Silverado but still something to check.

Posted

Got the truck back from the dealer and they were unable to get the result of a water leak under their testing. They said more than likely my AC drain was clogged. We will see what happens when I have the time to wash it next.

Posted

Yeah, I'd bet on evaporator drain.

Posted

Your prob right....I always thought it was a leak from rain....but it was slways there after vaccuum & shampoo

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...
    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...