Who's got rear sway bars installed?

bigsapper · September 15, 2014

The coil-overs up front are adjustable. The rears don't appear to be. I am guessing that the little silver plug on the bottom of the reservoir is for assembly, if it was for adjustment it would probably have arrows with + & - . I can't see the top part of the shock, but I felt around up there and couldn't feel anything that felt like an adjuster.

Years ago it was popular to say that the factory shocks you got on new cars cost them about two dollars. I've always thought that the factory shocks were cheapos (besides for Raptor shocks) and I have always noticed a big improvement with the handling when replacing them. I put these on about a week before I put the swaybar on and noticed a big improvement. You're asking for an 'exact' difference between the cheapos and a quality unit. It sounds like you may be concerned there is a downside to upgrading your shocks. Everything about it is much better. I does not ride rough if that's what you might have been thinking.

With the addition of the swaybar I noticed the biggest improvement. I was kind of wondering what it was like to add the swaybar with the factory shocks, but that really doesn't matter to me. Doing both is what's best by far IMO.

And for the other guy with the 'what you pay' grammar correction....no worries.

Quick Overview (no mention of adjustability)

Dirt Logic Shocks with Reservoir by Fabtech are designed for the ultimate in performance, custom fit and the best quality ride available. They are built in-house by Fabtech at their Chino, CA (not China) facility using CNC capabilities, quality control and off-road design experience.

Another outstanding feature of the Dirt Logic shocks is the use of electroless nickel plating for the shock body. Electroless nickel will not deteriorate over time by turning milky and blotchy. Because of this, no clear coat is required. Nickel is the best plating possible for a take-apart shock. This standard is superior to other shock that apply a clear coat over zinc that eventually wears or chips off exposing the shock to rust.

Dirt Logic shocks are constructed using seamless steel tubing, billet aluminum top cap and rod end with urethane or spherical bearing mountings. Stem applications use a chromoly stem instead of the industry standard clevis adapter kit. A dividing piston is used to separate the oil from the high pressure nitrogen gas to eliminate fading and retain a consistent ride. This is superior to emulsion shocks that lose performance quickly.

The aluminum parts of the Dirt Logic are polished before the black anodized finish is applied. This results in a smooth surface for the anodizing to coat leaving a deep black luster.

External reservoirs are used to accommodate additional oil and nitrogen volume. The additional oil volume helps keep the shock cooler. The additional gas volume helps to keep more consistent control forces over a variety of temperatures.

For complete compatibility, Fabtech is the only manufacturer that builds both the suspension and Dirt Logic shocks in house. This guarantees complete compatibility. Covered by the Fabtech Limited Lifetime Warranty.

Do those shocks bolt up using the factory mounts and bolts?

bass mechanic · September 15, 2014

The coil-overs up front are adjustable. The rears don't appear to be. I am guessing that the little silver plug on the bottom of the reservoir is for assembly, if it was for adjustment it would probably have arrows with + & - . I can't see the top part of the shock, but I felt around up there and couldn't feel anything that felt like an adjuster.

Years ago it was popular to say that the factory shocks you got on new cars cost them about two dollars. I've always thought that the factory shocks were cheapos (besides for Raptor shocks) and I have always noticed a big improvement with the handling when replacing them. I put these on about a week before I put the swaybar on and noticed a big improvement. You're asking for an 'exact' difference between the cheapos and a quality unit. It sounds like you may be concerned there is a downside to upgrading your shocks. Everything about it is much better. I does not ride rough if that's what you might have been thinking.

With the addition of the swaybar I noticed the biggest improvement. I was kind of wondering what it was like to add the swaybar with the factory shocks, but that really doesn't matter to me. Doing both is what's best by far IMO.

And for the other guy with the 'what you pay' grammar correction....no worries.

Quick Overview (no mention of adjustability)

Dirt Logic Shocks with Reservoir by Fabtech are designed for the ultimate in performance, custom fit and the best quality ride available. They are built in-house by Fabtech at their Chino, CA (not China) facility using CNC capabilities, quality control and off-road design experience.

Another outstanding feature of the Dirt Logic shocks is the use of electroless nickel plating for the shock body. Electroless nickel will not deteriorate over time by turning milky and blotchy. Because of this, no clear coat is required. Nickel is the best plating possible for a take-apart shock. This standard is superior to other shock that apply a clear coat over zinc that eventually wears or chips off exposing the shock to rust.

Dirt Logic shocks are constructed using seamless steel tubing, billet aluminum top cap and rod end with urethane or spherical bearing mountings. Stem applications use a chromoly stem instead of the industry standard clevis adapter kit. A dividing piston is used to separate the oil from the high pressure nitrogen gas to eliminate fading and retain a consistent ride. This is superior to emulsion shocks that lose performance quickly.

The aluminum parts of the Dirt Logic are polished before the black anodized finish is applied. This results in a smooth surface for the anodizing to coat leaving a deep black luster.

External reservoirs are used to accommodate additional oil and nitrogen volume. The additional oil volume helps keep the shock cooler. The additional gas volume helps to keep more consistent control forces over a variety of temperatures.

For complete compatibility, Fabtech is the only manufacturer that builds both the suspension and Dirt Logic shocks in house. This guarantees complete compatibility. Covered by the Fabtech Limited Lifetime Warranty.

Apparently Fabtec doesn't make any applications for a stock truck height.

is your truck lifted?

desert · September 16, 2014

Apparently Fabtec doesn't make any applications for a stock truck height.

is your truck lifted?

No, not lifted.

http://www.fabtechmotorsports.com/GMC-CHEVY-4WD/K1500-2014-c1415/

Edited September 16, 2014 by crew62

bass mechanic · September 17, 2014

No, not lifted.

http://www.fabtechmotorsports.com/GMC-CHEVY-4WD/K1500-2014-c1415/

I talked to fabtech and gave them your part number in the pic you provided, he said the shocks you have are part of a kit they sell for 2wd and you have to change out the upper control arm.

he said they wont make any difference verses stock for me. and they don't make any for my application.

he thinks the bouncing in dealing with is when I hit a dip the suspension is hitting the bump stops. putting weight in the back of the truck will solve my problems on the rear and the front is what it is. unless I plan to lift the truck there are no factory height applications made from any manufacturer he knows of.

I don't want to lift the truck. I might consider air ride in the future to lower the truck when loading my dirt bike. but otherwise I don't want it any higher, don't need it any higher.

so I guess ill have to deal with the factory shocks.

desert · September 17, 2014

I talked to fabtech and gave them your part number in the pic you provided, he said the shocks you have are part of a kit they sell for 2wd and you have to change out the upper control arm.

he said they wont make any difference verses stock for me. and they don't make any for my application.

he thinks the bouncing in dealing with is when I hit a dip the suspension is hitting the bump stops. putting weight in the back of the truck will solve my problems on the rear and the front is what it is. unless I plan to lift the truck there are no factory height applications made from any manufacturer he knows of.

I don't want to lift the truck. I might consider air ride in the future to lower the truck when loading my dirt bike. but otherwise I don't want it any higher, don't need it any higher.

so I guess ill have to deal with the factory shocks.

OK, you are mentioning an upper control arm. The picture that shows the part # FTS800321 is the rear shock.

I also replaced my front shocks with a kit (# FTS21134) that included the shock and spring (coil-over) and the new upper control arm that has a heavier duty ball joint.

My truck is a factory ride height, 4x4. The front ride height is now adjustable. The shop that installed it, didn't have the 'Dirt-Logic' adjusting wrench, so they left the adjustment on the new front shocks alone. My truck's front end now sits about one inch lower than the back. (slight rake)

All this stuff with the anti sway-bar, installed, cost around $3600 + tax....the difference is astounding.

Edited September 18, 2014 by crew62

bass mechanic · September 18, 2014

OK, you are mentioning an upper control arm. The picture that shows the part # FTS800321 is the rear shock.

I also replaced my front shocks with a kit (# FTS21134) that included the shock and spring (coil-over) and the new upper control arm that has a heavier duty ball joint.

My truck is a factory ride height, 4x4. The front ride height is now adjustable. The shop that installed it, didn't have the 'Dirt-Logic' adjusting wrench, so they left the adjustment on the new front shocks alone. My truck's front end now sits about one inch lower than the back. (slight rake)

All this stuff with the anti sway-bar, installed, cost around $3600 + tax....the difference is astounding.

ok well as the guy i talked to said, they aren't meant for a stock ride height application (his words not mine) i was speaking to him on the phone as i looked at your pics.

but anyway apparently you feel they work just fine, i guess my concern is if they are for lifted applications have you ever had one bottom out before hitting the bump stop?

he did say that the coil over would raise the front and level out the truck.

but can you tell me exactly what is better in your opinion?

if i am being honest i think the overall ride is great with the factory shocks, i just don't like the shutter effect i get when hitting manhole covers potholes and such.

also the truck gets tossed up hard over dips and my butt leaves the seat as i get launched into the air.

highway and normal around town i have no complaints.

i do feel the sway bar helped a lot with turning especially since i ditched the factory 18" wheels in favor of V rated 20" rims and rubber.

i never take my truck off road so i could care less about that.

i just feel the truck bounces a little too much but i have an all terrain i don't know what to compare it to if the regular SLT non Z71 package is any different.

tell me in exact words what is better and in what conditions. for that kind of dough I'm not convinced its a good investment just yet.

desert · September 18, 2014

ok well as the guy i talked to said, they aren't meant for a stock ride height application (his words not mine) i was speaking to him on the phone as i looked at your pics.

but anyway apparently you feel they work just fine, i guess my concern is if they are for lifted applications have you ever had one bottom out before hitting the bump stop?

he did say that the coil over would raise the front and level out the truck.

but can you tell me exactly what is better in your opinion?

if i am being honest i think the overall ride is great with the factory shocks, i just don't like the shutter effect i get when hitting manhole covers potholes and such.

also the truck gets tossed up hard over dips and my butt leaves the seat as i get launched into the air.

highway and normal around town i have no complaints.

i do feel the sway bar helped a lot with turning especially since i ditched the factory 18" wheels in favor of V rated 20" rims and rubber.

i never take my truck off road so i could care less about that.

i just feel the truck bounces a little too much but i have an all terrain i don't know what to compare it to if the regular SLT non Z71 package is any different.

tell me in exact words what is better and in what conditions. for that kind of dough I'm not convinced its a good investment just yet.

1) "I don't like the shudder effect I get when hitting manhole covers and potholes"

2) "The truck gets tossed up hard over dips and my butt leaves the seat as I get launched into the air"

You have named two scenarios when your shocks are asked to perform. Good quality shocks will solve both of those problems.

"highway and normal around town I have no complaints"

As long as they aren't worn out, cheap shocks are fine on the highway and around town. If you loan your truck to your grandma she'll be fine with the Rancho's or whatever they gave you. A guy that SC's his 2014 truck up over 600 hp is going to appreciate the difference.

Your guy on the phone sounds confused for some reason. I recommend you talk to a different guy. Give him the part # FTS800321 for the rear shocks and the part # FTS21134 for the front.

I copied these part #'s off my receipt. My truck is a factory ride height, 4x4. (if you scroll up this page you can see my left front half-shaft in my picture) You could try forwarding the picture to your guy.

(and, no, my shocks never bottom out, and I have never hit the bump stops)

Edited September 19, 2014 by crew62

Cliff14Denali · September 19, 2014

Those are U-bolts to the axle and frame. No drilling or welding required. The Hellwig anti-swaybar is purchased separately.

7735 Hellwig Big Wig Rear Sway Bar 2014-2014 Chevy-GMC 1500 2WD-4WD-1 1/8 Inch Diameter

The Hellwig Heavy Duty Sway Bar provides added sway control when hauling heavy loads or towing. Greatly improves cornering traction for safer driving and better handling. The GMC 1500 Rear Sway Bar from Hellwig Products features a 1 1/8" heat treated 4140 solid chromoly steel bar for maximum sway control. The adjustable rear sway bar and mounting brackets are powder coated for durability and good looks. Includes all necessary hardware and does not require drilling to install.

Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Fitment 2014

GMC Sierra 1500 Fitment 2014

FEATURES

1 1/8 Inch Heat treated 4140 chromoly solid steel bar

Polyurethane bushings

Adjustable for desired amount of sway control and handling

Easy installation with no drilling required

Made in the USA

Lifetime guarantee

That bracket looks really close to the exhaust and spare tire. I wonder if this would work with aftermarket larger diameter exhaust? I know the 4" pipe I have on my tailpipe is kinda close to my spare tire.

desert · September 19, 2014

That bracket looks really close to the exhaust and spare tire. I wonder if this would work with aftermarket larger diameter exhaust? I know the 4" pipe I have on my tailpipe is kinda close to my spare tire.

My exhaust is a 4" Magnaflow 15318 - there is about 5" between my spare and the exhaust - the swaybar is 1/2" from the spare and 1" from the exhaust. Granted its snug but the swaybar doesn't move much. Since the swaybar is made for this particular truck, I think it fits well.

Cliff14Denali · September 20, 2014

My exhaust is a 4" Magnaflow 15318 - there is about 5" between my spare and the exhaust - the swaybar is 1/2" from the spare and 1" from the exhaust. Granted its snug but the swaybar doesn't move much. Since the swaybar is made for this particular truck, I think it fits well.

Is there anway to measure the width of the sway bar to the bolt across? I did a custom tailpipe and mine is a little closer looking than yours. Thank you!

Cliff

Edited September 20, 2014 by Cliff14Denali

desert · September 20, 2014

Is there anway to measure the width of the sway bar to the bolt across? I did a custom tailpipe and mine is a little closer looking than yours. Thank you!

Cliff

It looks like your tailpipe needs to be modified to more closely replicate the factory exhaust positioning. I imagine it would be fairly easy for a decent muffler guy to replace the last section of your exhaust leaving a 5 or 6" space between your tailpipe and your spare tire. (5" is enough, but no less) Of course that last hangar should probably be inboard, like on the original exhaust. You WILL thank yourself.

Cliff14Denali · September 21, 2014

Is there anway to measure the width of the sway bar to the bolt across? I did a custom tailpipe and mine is a little closer looking than yours. Thank you!

Cliff

It looks like your tailpipe needs to be modified to more closely replicate the factory exhaust positioning. I imagine it would be fairly easy for a decent muffler guy to replace the last section of your exhaust leaving a 5 or 6" space between your tailpipe and your spare tire. (5" is enough, but no less) Of course that last hangar should probably be inboard, like on the original exhaust. You WILL thank yourself.

Is that bar hanging below the spare tire or even with it?

desert · September 21, 2014

If you were to move the bar 1/2" toward the tire it would touch the corner of the tire. It sounds like you're considering bending a swaybar to accommodate your exhaust. Maybe something along the lines of bending it slightly down and toward the spare tire. I would guess that you would then have to adjust the strut out (lengthen) to reach the end of the swaybar in it's new position. I doubt altering the overall geometry of the swaybar would hurt, but you might run yourself short of threads adjusting that strut out. You could check with Hellwig, but by the end of the day it sounds to me like you are risking taking on a more difficult job than moving the exhaust.

Edited September 22, 2014 by crew62