Jump to content

Exhaust with no drone?


campbell45

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Hey all, new member here but been following the forum since I bought my truck in Sept of 2014. I bought the Dynomax VT cat back after reading some of you guys talk about it and was hoping for the best but it hasn't turned out that well. Got it shipped in 3 days and when I opened up the muffler box I could hear a rattle. Called dynomax up and they sent out a new one under warranty but took over a week to get to me. Finally got my old exhaust off and the dynomax put on last night. The first problem I had was with the SS tip they sent. It was way to big to fit on the pipe and even with the clamp tightened as far as it would go I could still just pull it off the exhaust pipe. I was also not to impressed with the sound at idle but I do come from my last two Silverados having flowmasters on them. I finally took the truck for a spin today and I was actually pretty impressed with the sound under throttle and how quiet it got out of throttle. The downside is when my truck is in V4 and the throttle is lightly applied, starts to drone and the truck actually shakes a little but goes away as soon as it goes into V8. I am going to give it a few days but I may end up sending it back and putting my stocker on. Just hard to ride around in a quiet truck after 17 years of having some kind of exhaust on my previous trucks.

 

Sounds like you got a bum system all the way around. My Dynomax VT system has none of the issues that you speak of. I will say though, I had the exhaust shop tack weld my tip onto the pipe as well as the clamp so maybe that's why I don't have any issues. It is definitely a quiet exhaust and much quieter than Flowmasters, but again that's exactly what I was looking for. I've never had the shake in V4 mode so that's definitely odd. Good thing is that Dynomax has a 90 day guarantee, so if you end up not liking it, just send it back.

Posted

I went out and drove the truck some more last night and it still did the V4 drone and slight shake but only when I was giving the truck just a little bit of gas. If you give it more gas in V4 (and it stays in V4) it would go away and also when it goes into V8. Most of my driving it is no big deal but really shows itself when cruise is set and going 55 down a flat highway where the truck stays in V4. This could be more of a characteristic of my truck that others may not run into, who knows. The system does sound pretty good though and if it wasn't for the V4 problem I would probably keep it but I think I am going to send it back. I will probably wait till the warranty runs out and then disable V4 and go back to a flowmaster 50 series setup.

Posted

I had the same issue with the tip. I took out my air tools and tightened it all the way down after I used a dead blow hammer to close the relief cuts in the SS tip.

I am glad to hear I was not the only one with this problem. Took me maybe 30 mins to put the exhaust on but I spent 1.5 hours trying to get the stupid tip on.

Posted

Called up the good people at Dynomax and they are going to take the exhaust back and refund my purchase price. I don't have much time to chase what is causing the V4 drone/shake but since I am taking a long weekend form work I will get the VT off and my stocker put back on. I dread putting that heavy thing back on and dread even more the sound of silence! I have heard those aftermarket air intakes can give a truck some growel so I may try on of those down the road. At least this finally got me off my butt to sign up on this forum. I had a 2002 Silverado for 12 years and got to know that truck pretty good so I will probably frequent that section of the forum some.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
Posted

+1 Dynomax. It's a little more tamed than i was thinking it would be but ill take it for how quiet it is in v4

The DynoMax I had on my 2009 2500 was ridiculously loud. I'll have to dig up the model number. It was a straight muffler swap.

 

Any more reports on an 18" magnaflow muffler swap?

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Posted

My Dynomax VT catback is just too quiet for me. I love how the catback is configured though, makes it easy to swap out for a different muffler.

 

So, I just ordered a Flowmaster Super 40 (Center In / Offset Out (Same setup as the Dynomax VT)) Part Number 953047. Since the Flowmaster is a 13" case (19" overall) and the Dynomax is a 20" case (25" overall), I order a Flowmaster Slip Connection 3" in/out, that is 10" long. Part Number SF300. I'll have to trim 3-4" off it for it to fit properly.

 

Can't wait to try this out and see how it sounds. If it's too loud or drones, I have a Magnaflow 11229 (14" Case, 20" overall) sitting around that I'll try out, since Luster likes his 14" Magnaflow.

 

Luster, which part number do you have?

  • 2 months later...
Posted

My Dynomax VT catback is just too quiet for me. I love how the catback is configured though, makes it easy to swap out for a different muffler.

 

So, I just ordered a Flowmaster Super 40 (Center In / Offset Out (Same setup as the Dynomax VT)) Part Number 953047. Since the Flowmaster is a 13" case (19" overall) and the Dynomax is a 20" case (25" overall), I order a Flowmaster Slip Connection 3" in/out, that is 10" long. Part Number SF300. I'll have to trim 3-4" off it for it to fit properly.

 

Can't wait to try this out and see how it sounds. If it's too loud or drones, I have a Magnaflow 11229 (14" Case, 20" overall) sitting around that I'll try out, since Luster likes his 14" Magnaflow.

 

Luster, which part number do you have?

I don't know if it's the same one as him but 11229 is the part number on the 14" magnflow I was looking at today.

Posted

I don't know if it's the same one as him but 11229 is the part number on the 14" magnflow I was looking at today.

Yup, that's a great muffler.

 

I'm happy with my flowmaster super 40 too.

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

Posted

Yup, that's a great muffler.

 

I'm happy with my flowmaster super 40 too.

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

Awesome! Thanks for the input!

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I don't know if it's the same one as him but 11229 is the part number on the 14" magnflow I was looking at today.

 

 

Yup, that's a great muffler.

 

I'm happy with my flowmaster super 40 too.

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

 

 

Have you checked out the 12866? Looks like its similar dimensions but 2.5".

Posted

 

 

 

 

Have you checked out the 12866? Looks like its similar dimensions but 2.5".

Thanks for the suggestion :thumbs: but I went with the 14" I mentioned above...as soon as I get some good weather on a day that I have free time I will be doing an after video, since I have already done the before.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I don't know if it's the same one as him but 11229 is the part number on the 14" magnflow I was looking at today.

 

The 14" MF was my plan as well, although I noticed I had written down part # 12229 rather than # 11229. I looked it up and here is the difference:

 

12229 - offset inlet, center outlet

11229 - center inlet, offset outlet

 

So which is better fitment for my application? I have a '15 6.2 Denali.

Posted

 

The 14" MF was my plan as well, although I noticed I had written down part # 12229 rather than # 11229. I looked it up and here is the difference:

 

12229 - offset inlet, center outlet

11229 - center inlet, offset outlet

 

So which is better fitment for my application? I have a '15 6.2 Denali.

Not sure how the 6.2L is...I would suggest calling a local muffler shop or post up a thread here specifically asking that question.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Which one, the AT or AS?   Starfire is made by Cooper/Goodyear but at $85/tire I'd think I'd need to level-set my expectations that they may not even be round 😉 But you're saying they're decent?   I'm already into this thing $1506 in parts, fluids, etc. Totaled all my receipts today. $250 of that was replacing an EGR and MAP sensor that were probably fine, but I'm not going to return the parts since they've been installed. I'm cheap, but not that cheap. I use it, I keep it!   I may or may not make money if I sell the truck at this point, but, that wasn't really the point. And if I billed my time, I'd be hosed for real. My thought on the tires is I "might" put 1,000 miles on before selling it. I just don't want to put absolute junk on it, that doesn't do anyone any good. If the Solus solidly isn't junk, I'll definitely consider them.        
    • I leave mine as is. I'm always a trip away from riding on unpaved roads. Dealer can clean it when they prep it after I trade it in for another new truck.
    • I have these on two vehicles and love them. Pepper is one of them 😉 
    • 4WD. Far as I know it came stock with P's and not LT's. Definitely planning to put P's on it, but stock is a 109 XL load rating so I should probably stick within that guideline.   No rebates on anything I can see at the moment. Discount Tire is offering $50 off, but Pep Boys is very competitive on price, and also carries all the off-brand stuff. Les Schwab always wants an arm/leg, but they do good work.   It still has the original spare. Goodyear Wrangler RT/S, thing looks like a tractor tire LOL!! How times have changed.    
    • 2020 Sierra 2500 HD (base model) gas engine 4wd.    All 4 windows roll down on their own. Happens somewhat randomly after stop and engine off - when engine turned off, when walking away from vehicle before or after locks activated. Pulled the window fuse F14 Instrument Panel Fuse Block Right; the driver's side still activates from driver's side door panel; passenger and back seat windows activate from local switches on their doors but not from driver's side group of switches. Power mirrors don't activate with fuse removed either (same fuse for both circuits). Problem not solved.    How can they even activate with fuse removed but they are all still opening and can control from each door?  When they open on their own, I can shut them from the switch in each door, but they don't stay closed.    Seems to be activated somehow with key fob; something bumping the key fob in my pocket or just handling - removed key fob and took it far enough away and now the windows stay closed. Replaced key fob batty just in case, no change.    Sounds like some kind of wiring short or maybe electronics. Dealer will first replace electronic control module without checking anything else and I anticipate problem will still exist since their troubleshooting skills are limited to "do whatever the computer says".  In any case, keyfob seems to be activating the circuitry.    Surely I'm not the only one with this issue, but I can't find anything related on the site. What do yall think?   JohnRoy  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...