Jump to content

Rattle in headliner


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello everybody. New member here and also first new truck. I bought this truck about 2 weeks ago. I have my loves and hates but recently i noticed a rattle in my headliner. I would tap it in different places and couldnt pinpoint it. So i decided to maybe take it to the dealer but before that day, i wanted to try again as to pinpoint it. Well i found the rattle and its located inside the glasses holder. Inside is two tabs and the one on the right is the culprit. As of now, i haven't tried to fix it but im making this post to inform others here before wasting your time at the dealership.

 

c2e051d930f1ac61732cedf657e6c6c7.jpg

 

82428b7f4919493c7ca3c38eb3fbfc1a.jpg

Posted

Saw a fix for this on the Troubleshooting page. I think the one person just taped it up or wedged a piece of rubber in to stop it from moving around.

Posted

Just take it completely out, it doesn't appear to serve any real purpose. I tried wedging some weatherstripping under it but it came loose and started rattling again. So after someone else reported about taking theirs completely out, I did the same.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Saw a fix for this on the Troubleshooting page. I think the one person just taped it up or wedged a piece of rubber in to stop it from moving around.

Just finished my sound system and my dome light is also rattling. I cannot seem to find the thread mentioned here. Can you provide a link?

Thanks

Posted

Thanks for sharing but this has been discussed a lot already. You can take it out or even tape it up with felt or velcroe so it Dosent move.

But let me tell you it was driving me nuts!

Posted

Just finished my sound system and my dome light is also rattling. I cannot seem to find the thread mentioned here. Can you provide a link?

Thanks

 

 

I think this was the thread, but doesn't really tell you anything new than what's reported here. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/163572-dash-rattle-solved/

 

 

I was glad to get rid of this rattle by completely removing the clip, and I recently took care of the dash rattle and center console rattle too.

Posted

I was just looking at my sun glass holder... playing around with that little clip.... now my sun glass holder wont open at all...

Posted

I was just looking at my sun glass holder... playing around with that little clip.... now my sun glass holder wont open at all...

 

take a paper clip and unbend and poke around up there in where the clip is and it you should get it to release. It actually might be the other clip next to it. The same thing happened to me when I put some weatherstripping behind that clip and then I couldn't open the holder anymore. I got it unstuck with the paper clip and then I totally removed that useless clip.

Posted

From day one i have been annoyed by this rattle and i have tried everything but removing it. Now i will remove it cause it is driving me crazy.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

New rattle today in the headliner, if I put my hand over my head, and brace the headliner, it stops. I don't think it's my sunglass holder. Sounds like a machine gun...ratatatatatataaa...

Posted

New rattle today in the headliner, if I put my hand over my head, and brace the headliner, it stops. I don't think it's my sunglass holder. Sounds like a machine gun...ratatatatatataaa...

 

You must've had Friday built truck where the builders put a couple washers in the headliner to drive you crazy! hahahaha.

 

In all seriousness, I haven't heard this rattle in my truck yet, although I could still be thinking its the clip in the sunglass holder. Once it gets nicer I'm going to remove that clip and see.

 

Does anyone know the actual purpose of the rattle clip?

  • 3 months later...
Posted

New rattle today in the headliner, if I put my hand over my head, and brace the headliner, it stops. I don't think it's my sunglass holder. Sounds like a machine gun...ratatatatatataaa...

 

I pulled this piece out of my sunglass holder and the rattling didnt go away. Did you ever figure out what it is? it's definitely coming from the sunglass holder area. Thanks in advance for any help!

Posted

My issue ultimately was a bent rim which caused the headliner to rattle. New wheel (no charge) and it's all good.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...