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Heated steering wheel

Dennisfiremanny
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krdeal Enthusiast

krdeal

Posted
Posted

I was looking at the issue this past week. I stand corrected as the connector is a 2 conductor plug off of the clock spring. The factory connector is up high in the dash behind the cluster it looks like. I did confirm the plug needs a 12V ignition switched source on one wire (violet/white) and the other wire (Black) is a ground on the plug. It looks like there is no terminated lead available for this plug so you have to get to the plug on the harness (if it's there) or cut the plug off of the clock spring and connect as described. I did test it and it works, so I will be sourcing some sort of 2 conductor plug and wiring it directly to a keyed 12V source.

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redwngr
redwngr

Always figured they were a waste of money. Won't order without it now.

Isriam
Isriam

i use mine a lot. it only takes about 3 minutes to get too hot to hold, so i turn it off after that.   its funny how awesome the steering wheel warmer is and how terrible the seat warmers are.

jay15892
jay15892

I never thought I'd need a heated steering but now that I have one I would not want to live without it! Truly awesome in Alaskan winters..

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Darth_Vader Enthusiast

Darth_Vader

Posted
Posted (edited)

Mine came in yesterday. The ground side is normally tied in with the rest of the grounds from the clock spring for things like the left and right control switches. Black wire number 1050, from the diagram it actually ties in before it gets to any connector, so I am going to tap right into the harness past the clock spring for ground.

 

The left leg is from the l/r control buttons, the right leg is from the heater module.

post-148500-0-51247000-1443011065.jpg

 

 

The power is another issue, it normally comes from the Left Hand Instrument panel block, 7.5A fuse, looks to be #32, might check the manual. Probably has power on one side already, if you could easily get to the back of the panel you could run a lead over to it and land it on the fuse panel where it is supposed to be, this is what I am going to try and do. In the factory install it goes through two different junctions, but I think it would be futile to even look into that side of it. Initially I was hoping to just tie mine into the power that goes to the rest of the devices in the steering wheel but it is on a 2.5A feed. Oh, and I wouldn't worried about a keyed source if you don't run it over to the original spot on the fuse block as the heater module has a timer so it isn't like you could leave it on and potentially run the battery down or something.

 

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Edited by Harlech
Blaaake Enthusiast

Blaaake

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the detailed info on the wiring. Do you happen to have the wiring diagram for the clockspring wires between the s/w controls and actual clock spring?

 

Thank you!

Darth_Vader Enthusiast

Darth_Vader

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the detailed info on the wiring. Do you happen to have the wiring diagram for the clockspring wires between the s/w controls and actual clock spring?

 

Thank you!

 

Are you looking for something in particular? There are about 15 diagrams involving the clock spring. I can also get the pinouts for the connectors.

 

I attached a couple that show some of the most detail.

 

Kyle

 

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  • 2 months later...
Blaaake Enthusiast

Blaaake

Posted
Posted

I was looking at the issue this past week. I stand corrected as the connector is a 2 conductor plug off of the clock spring. The factory connector is up high in the dash behind the cluster it looks like. I did confirm the plug needs a 12V ignition switched source on one wire (violet/white) and the other wire (Black) is a ground on the plug. It looks like there is no terminated lead available for this plug so you have to get to the plug on the harness (if it's there) or cut the plug off of the clock spring and connect as described. I did test it and it works, so I will be sourcing some sort of 2 conductor plug and wiring it directly to a keyed 12V source.

 

I was wondering if you were able to locate the factory plug, if so, was it behind the cluster?

krdeal Enthusiast

krdeal

Posted
Posted

Anthony,

 

I was into the dash a while back and noticed the plug and I have access to the same wiring diagrams that Vader is posting above. The clock springs acts as the terminal from the wires going down the column and the steering wheel. The reason for a different clock spring on the heated wheel option, is the amount of current needed for the circuit compared to the rest of the switches. A good ground can be had in a lot of places as long as it is a body ground, if it's a ground wire going somewhere else, that wire has to be able to handle the total load of both circuits. I liked a switch power lead or power source, despite any timer. That's personal preference leaning on the side of safety. The heated wheel option is a pretty simple add-on and is self contained, it's just the stinking clock spring that makes it a little pricey.

 

Ken

Blaaake Enthusiast

Blaaake

Posted
Posted

I still have a heated wheel I will sell for cheap if anyone is interested in something to use to mess around with this.

Is it the Chevy or GMC wheel?

 

Sent from my SM-N915P using Tapatalk

Blaaake Enthusiast

Blaaake

Posted
Posted

Anthony,

 

I was into the dash a while back and noticed the plug and I have access to the same wiring diagrams that Vader is posting above. The clock springs acts as the terminal from the wires going down the column and the steering wheel. The reason for a different clock spring on the heated wheel option, is the amount of current needed for the circuit compared to the rest of the switches. A good ground can be had in a lot of places as long as it is a body ground, if it's a ground wire going somewhere else, that wire has to be able to handle the total load of both circuits. I liked a switch power lead or power source, despite any timer. That's personal preference leaning on the side of safety. The heated wheel option is a pretty simple add-on and is self contained, it's just the stinking clock spring that makes it a little pricey.

 

Ken

Hey Ken!

 

Thank you for the reply! I already have the new clockspring installed and everything hooked up, minus the 2 plug adapter for the heated wheel... I was looking for the plug, but did not see it. That is why I was curious if you knew where it was hanging or tied up to.

 

Thank you!

 

Sent from my SM-N915P using Tapatalk

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
Posted

Is it the Chevy or GMC wheel?

 

Sent from my SM-N915P using Tapatalk

It's a denali wheel with red stitching, would be perfect for someone with a gmc that doesn't mind red stitching or someone with an sle all terrain that can replace the brushed metal pieces. Could also carbon fibre wrap the bushed metal and put it in any truck.

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
Posted

It's a denali wheel with red stitching, would be perfect for someone with a gmc that doesn't mind red stitching or someone with an sle all terrain that can replace the brushed metal pieces. Could also carbon fibre wrap the bushed metal and put it in any truck.

I'll sell it for $50 +shipping

  • Like 1
Blaaake Enthusiast

Blaaake

Posted
Posted

Hey Ken!

 

Thank you for the reply! I already have the new clockspring installed and everything hooked up, minus the 2 plug adapter for the heated wheel... I was looking for the plug, but did not see it. That is why I was curious if you knew where it was hanging or tied up to.

 

Thank you!

 

Sent from my SM-N915P using Tapatalk

Found the plug. Staring directly forward after taking the "knee panel" off, it is taped to a loom of wires. Trying to attach a picture but having issues. It is attached to the loom from the black box with 7 plugs on it, I am assuming the BCM. If you go the third plug over that is green, and follow it up the loom, you can't miss it.

 

Thank you all for the help. It is working perfectly now!

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-N915P using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...
cato Enthusiast

cato

Posted
Posted

Resurrecting this thread. What's the best way to remove the air bag?

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