Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I was looking at the issue this past week. I stand corrected as the connector is a 2 conductor plug off of the clock spring. The factory connector is up high in the dash behind the cluster it looks like. I did confirm the plug needs a 12V ignition switched source on one wire (violet/white) and the other wire (Black) is a ground on the plug. It looks like there is no terminated lead available for this plug so you have to get to the plug on the harness (if it's there) or cut the plug off of the clock spring and connect as described. I did test it and it works, so I will be sourcing some sort of 2 conductor plug and wiring it directly to a keyed 12V source.

Posted (edited)

Mine came in yesterday. The ground side is normally tied in with the rest of the grounds from the clock spring for things like the left and right control switches. Black wire number 1050, from the diagram it actually ties in before it gets to any connector, so I am going to tap right into the harness past the clock spring for ground.

 

The left leg is from the l/r control buttons, the right leg is from the heater module.

post-148500-0-51247000-1443011065.jpg

 

 

The power is another issue, it normally comes from the Left Hand Instrument panel block, 7.5A fuse, looks to be #32, might check the manual. Probably has power on one side already, if you could easily get to the back of the panel you could run a lead over to it and land it on the fuse panel where it is supposed to be, this is what I am going to try and do. In the factory install it goes through two different junctions, but I think it would be futile to even look into that side of it. Initially I was hoping to just tie mine into the power that goes to the rest of the devices in the steering wheel but it is on a 2.5A feed. Oh, and I wouldn't worried about a keyed source if you don't run it over to the original spot on the fuse block as the heater module has a timer so it isn't like you could leave it on and potentially run the battery down or something.

 

post-148500-0-50060600-1443011694_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-51247000-1443011065.jpg

post-148500-0-50060600-1443011694_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-51247000-1443011065.jpg

post-148500-0-50060600-1443011694_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-51247000-1443011065.jpg

post-148500-0-50060600-1443011694_thumb.jpg

Edited by Harlech
Posted

Thanks for the detailed info on the wiring. Do you happen to have the wiring diagram for the clockspring wires between the s/w controls and actual clock spring?

 

Thank you!

Posted

Thanks for the detailed info on the wiring. Do you happen to have the wiring diagram for the clockspring wires between the s/w controls and actual clock spring?

 

Thank you!

 

Are you looking for something in particular? There are about 15 diagrams involving the clock spring. I can also get the pinouts for the connectors.

 

I attached a couple that show some of the most detail.

 

Kyle

 

post-148500-0-32761000-1443097592_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-29718400-1443097608_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-32761000-1443097592_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-29718400-1443097608_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-32761000-1443097592_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-29718400-1443097608_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-32761000-1443097592_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-29718400-1443097608_thumb.jpg

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I was looking at the issue this past week. I stand corrected as the connector is a 2 conductor plug off of the clock spring. The factory connector is up high in the dash behind the cluster it looks like. I did confirm the plug needs a 12V ignition switched source on one wire (violet/white) and the other wire (Black) is a ground on the plug. It looks like there is no terminated lead available for this plug so you have to get to the plug on the harness (if it's there) or cut the plug off of the clock spring and connect as described. I did test it and it works, so I will be sourcing some sort of 2 conductor plug and wiring it directly to a keyed 12V source.

 

I was wondering if you were able to locate the factory plug, if so, was it behind the cluster?

Posted

Anthony,

 

I was into the dash a while back and noticed the plug and I have access to the same wiring diagrams that Vader is posting above. The clock springs acts as the terminal from the wires going down the column and the steering wheel. The reason for a different clock spring on the heated wheel option, is the amount of current needed for the circuit compared to the rest of the switches. A good ground can be had in a lot of places as long as it is a body ground, if it's a ground wire going somewhere else, that wire has to be able to handle the total load of both circuits. I liked a switch power lead or power source, despite any timer. That's personal preference leaning on the side of safety. The heated wheel option is a pretty simple add-on and is self contained, it's just the stinking clock spring that makes it a little pricey.

 

Ken

Posted

I still have a heated wheel I will sell for cheap if anyone is interested in something to use to mess around with this.

Is it the Chevy or GMC wheel?

 

Sent from my SM-N915P using Tapatalk

Posted

Anthony,

 

I was into the dash a while back and noticed the plug and I have access to the same wiring diagrams that Vader is posting above. The clock springs acts as the terminal from the wires going down the column and the steering wheel. The reason for a different clock spring on the heated wheel option, is the amount of current needed for the circuit compared to the rest of the switches. A good ground can be had in a lot of places as long as it is a body ground, if it's a ground wire going somewhere else, that wire has to be able to handle the total load of both circuits. I liked a switch power lead or power source, despite any timer. That's personal preference leaning on the side of safety. The heated wheel option is a pretty simple add-on and is self contained, it's just the stinking clock spring that makes it a little pricey.

 

Ken

Hey Ken!

 

Thank you for the reply! I already have the new clockspring installed and everything hooked up, minus the 2 plug adapter for the heated wheel... I was looking for the plug, but did not see it. That is why I was curious if you knew where it was hanging or tied up to.

 

Thank you!

 

Sent from my SM-N915P using Tapatalk

Posted

Is it the Chevy or GMC wheel?

 

Sent from my SM-N915P using Tapatalk

It's a denali wheel with red stitching, would be perfect for someone with a gmc that doesn't mind red stitching or someone with an sle all terrain that can replace the brushed metal pieces. Could also carbon fibre wrap the bushed metal and put it in any truck.

Posted

It's a denali wheel with red stitching, would be perfect for someone with a gmc that doesn't mind red stitching or someone with an sle all terrain that can replace the brushed metal pieces. Could also carbon fibre wrap the bushed metal and put it in any truck.

I'll sell it for $50 +shipping

  • Like 1
Posted

Hey Ken!

 

Thank you for the reply! I already have the new clockspring installed and everything hooked up, minus the 2 plug adapter for the heated wheel... I was looking for the plug, but did not see it. That is why I was curious if you knew where it was hanging or tied up to.

 

Thank you!

 

Sent from my SM-N915P using Tapatalk

Found the plug. Staring directly forward after taking the "knee panel" off, it is taped to a loom of wires. Trying to attach a picture but having issues. It is attached to the loom from the black box with 7 plugs on it, I am assuming the BCM. If you go the third plug over that is green, and follow it up the loom, you can't miss it.

 

Thank you all for the help. It is working perfectly now!

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-N915P using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...
Posted

Resurrecting this thread. What's the best way to remove the air bag?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,978
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    rayredbone
    Newest Member
    rayredbone
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 287 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  
    • Thank You.   So far my new ride is making me look like a genius for going with the 3.0L, as my first fuel refill occurred over three weeks from when I took delivery.  This engine combination is very amazing.  So far no issues and had not done a regen yet.
    • I am curious as to how much fluid you put back in the transmission ( assuming you had replaced the filter to compare to my findings ) and then went through the process of warming up the trans before pulling the check plug to drain out the excess and if you measured how much came back out.    I just found it surprising that some claimed a certain amount less fluid being put in and then draining some back out. The attitude of the truck as per if the surface is level and how the trucks stance is would make quite a difference since the check plug is right at the front of the transmission. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...