Jump to content

Heated steering wheel

Dennisfiremanny
 Share

Recommended Posts

tmo Enthusiast

tmo

Posted
Posted

1. Steering wheel

2. Clock spring

3. Wire with terminal ends to the fuse block X2 connector pin 37 and to the X201 connector, pin 41.

 

I supplied pictures of almost everything earlier in the thread. Did you read any of it?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well then... but yes. Until you can get in the truck and play around with it yourself it's much more difficult to comprehend... at least for some. Especially not knowing what's in the truck currently.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Replies 496
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

redwngr
redwngr

Always figured they were a waste of money. Won't order without it now.

Isriam
Isriam

i use mine a lot. it only takes about 3 minutes to get too hot to hold, so i turn it off after that.   its funny how awesome the steering wheel warmer is and how terrible the seat warmers are.

jay15892
jay15892

I never thought I'd need a heated steering but now that I have one I would not want to live without it! Truly awesome in Alaskan winters..

Posted Images

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

So let me make sure I understand. Sorry for my lack of intelligence on wiring. I need the terminal, this "harness" and then the wire to the wheel and the clock spring. And then it is plug and play.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe this will help. You will need a new wheel and clock spring.

 

This graphic below shows the new 2-pin pigtail that comes from the new clock spring that accommodates the heat.

 

Check to see if you have the mating end that comes out of the larger wire loom below. If you have that, check if it's hot. If it's not, you'll need the extra wiring to complete the circuit to the Fuse Panel.

 

d0fc8814b4a29b319e93597f2dd2066b.jpg

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 1 month later...
WesternMike Enthusiast

WesternMike

Posted
Posted

Will be doing this mod soon. 8" io5 upgrade, upgrading cluster as well as adding in the steering wheel controls with heated steering.

 

Just need to get my cluster which I should have tomorrow then get that programmed.. then work begins.

 

Great thread here.

  • Like 2
Justin101714 Enthusiast

Justin101714

Posted
Posted

Will be doing this mod soon. 8" io5 upgrade, upgrading cluster as well as adding in the steering wheel controls with heated steering.

 

Just need to get my cluster which I should have tomorrow then get that programmed.. then work begins.

 

Great thread here.

I should have made a video of the install. I can still make one actually. Just need to find the time. I use the heat just about every morning.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
carnut325 Enthusiast

carnut325

Posted
Posted

The dealer sold you Yazaki terminals by themselves? Hot damn! I find the pre-terminated lead to be overpriced and try to find the terminals by themselves from Mouser and crimp them myself. Then again, being able to get them immediately from the dealer... and not having to wait...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have both terminals and could you send me one of each for $10

  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

Do you have both terminals and could you send me one of each for $10

I'm on vacation until 7/9. I would have to check what I have when I get back.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

carnut325 Enthusiast

carnut325

Posted
Posted (edited)

Do you have both terminals and could you send me one of each for $10

Might pay you to make this wire for people who need it and sell them

Edited by carnut325
carnut325 Enthusiast

carnut325

Posted
Posted

I'm on vacation until 7/9. I would have to check what I have when I get back.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK thanks Enjoy

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

I checked mine with my voltmeter and it isn't hot. Looks like I'll need to make a wire also.

So you have the 2-pin pig tail in the wire loom? The 2-pin goes to the X201 then from X201 to X51L if I recall. Sounds like you'll need wire/terminals from X201 to X51L.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Justin101714 Enthusiast

Justin101714

Posted
Posted (edited)

The wire does go from X51L IP FUSE BLOCK LEFT to the X201 connector above the BCM. Connector X2 terminal 37 gets a (if I'm not mistaken [emoji851]) mouser 829-13849930-L and at X201 a Yazaki 7114-4110-02. Install it along with the new steering wheel airbag coil and you're good to go!

 

Oh and if you'd rather buy the terminated leads for the X51L side of things the part number is 19301761 comes in a pack of 5

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Justin101714
  • Like 1
cbrsilv15 Senior Enthusiast

cbrsilv15

Posted
Posted

So you have the 2-pin pig tail in the wire loom? The 2-pin goes to the X201 then from X201 to X51L if I recall. Sounds like you'll need wire/terminals from X201 to X51L.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup. The plug is there, it's just not hot. I'll need to get this done sometime.....before winter.lol.

  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

Yup. The plug is there, it's just not hot. I'll need to get this done sometime.....before winter.lol.

It's too hot right now and will be too cold in the winter! [emoji23]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,245 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • TrueBlue
      No Software Updates - Old Build

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...