WesternMike Posted January 22, 2018 Posted January 22, 2018 does anyone know the part number for the terminal connector that one would put in the X3 connector on #37 on the X51? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
cbrsilv15 Posted January 22, 2018 Posted January 22, 2018 On 7/21/2017 at 5:13 PM, cbrsilv15 said: You can go to the dealership and pick up the terminals your self if you need to have that jumper wire like Justin posted on page 11. I used Yazaki 4114411002 ( male spade terminal) and Yazaki 7116411102 ( female terminal) Not bad. It took me just under 2 hours but that was battling the heat outside as well. Fighting the clockspring is a PITA. That yellow plug is fished all the way up and to the side of the dash. It seems as though everything works now, but I'll have to try it again tonight when it cools off. Everything in the truck was super hot. 1
lagerman72 Posted January 22, 2018 Posted January 22, 2018 26 minutes ago, cbrsilv15 said: 7116411102 ( female terminal) Thank you! This was the one I couldn't find any reference to and the ones that were listed in the thread showed as incorrect or obsolete.
pgamboa Posted January 22, 2018 Posted January 22, 2018 I find or have a hard time finding Yazaki terminals. For the Fuse Blocks, I was able to find Terminals from Mouser. They are listed as Delphi OCS Terminals. There are two sizes... 1.5 and 2.8. I found part # 35031567 for the Female 1.5 Terminal and Part # 13849933 for the Female 2.8 Terminal. There are variants too based on wire gauge size. These two #s seem to work the best. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Brian Robinson Posted January 24, 2018 Posted January 24, 2018 has anyone tried just replacing the cruise switch assy. for one with the wheel heater switch? i imagine the clock spring would also need to be changed. the part# is 23156914 and it seems to be less than $50.
Mike GMC Posted January 24, 2018 Posted January 24, 2018 What good would a switch do if there is no heating element in the wheel? After reading through the very long thread, I ordered a new wheel and clock spring today from GMpartsnow.com (Berger Chevrolet). I have the power pedals, so I'm counting on the existing connector being live. If it's not, I guess I have to figure out the wire to the fuse box. I've had lots of cars that sat outside, but this is the first one that really seems to need a heated wheel. It's almost like it's filled with that gell from blue ice. It just stays cold.
Brian Robinson Posted January 24, 2018 Posted January 24, 2018 you are right, dumb question. i guess after reading all 19 pages of the thread i got stupid. i have the power pedals also, this weekend i will check for the connector and order the wheel and clockspring
Brian Robinson Posted January 24, 2018 Posted January 24, 2018 Mike gmc, what part no. did you order for the clock spring?
Mike GMC Posted January 24, 2018 Posted January 24, 2018 I recommend you go to a place like I did. I called to verify I was ordering the right parts and sure enough, I got the wheel wrong. I was off by one digit. Apparently, there are about 30 different wheels for these trucks. I found the black one with the right options, but I wanted black with red stitching to match my existing wheel. They got me the right part number so now I have confidence I ordered the right parts.
Mike GMC Posted January 24, 2018 Posted January 24, 2018 I ordered the heated wheel 84222913 black with red stitching, and 23381964 clock spring for heated wheel.
bkesting Posted January 27, 2018 Posted January 27, 2018 So I finally got underneath the dash on my 2016 LTZ. I have the connector/harness for the heated steering wheel, but it appears to be dead. It should show 12 V with the engine running correct? Mine shows 0 (unless I'm just not finding a good enough ground to test with). Having not read through the beginning of this thread, what would I need to make that harness hot? 1
pgamboa Posted January 27, 2018 Posted January 27, 2018 So I finally got underneath the dash on my 2016 LTZ. I have the connector/harness for the heated steering wheel, but it appears to be dead. It should show 12 V with the engine running correct? Mine shows 0 (unless I'm just not finding a good enough ground to test with). Having not read through the beginning of this thread, what would I need to make that harness hot?If your 2-Pin Connector mate under the dash is hot while running, then you’re good to go. I originally thought his was a constant, but it’s a Run/Crank ignition switched source. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
pgamboa Posted January 27, 2018 Posted January 27, 2018 There is a larger connector up above the column. It’s an X201 - 42 pin connector. I’ll venture a guess and say you’re missing a pin there. Pin 37 if I recall. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
bkesting Posted January 27, 2018 Posted January 27, 2018 Ok....I had engine running and had no voltage. So I'll look earlier in the thread for these other pins/connectors. Thx
cbrsilv15 Posted January 28, 2018 Posted January 28, 2018 That’s how I checked mine. No 12v while key on. I had to add the wire to jump from the fuse box to the plug above the brake pedal.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now