Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

You are likely missing the wiring between the Aux switch (S48A) and the junction block down by the pedals (X61A) and then out from the X61A to the Underhood fuse box (X50A). You can bypass the X61A altogether and go directly from the S48A to the X50A through the little “nipple” on the large boot on the firewall behind the X50A. You will also need to add diodes on each of the four wires coming from the S48A. Part number IN4004 (eBay).

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, TinkeringFox said:

You are likely missing the wiring between the Aux switch (S48A) and the junction block down by the pedals (X61A) and then out from the X61A to the Underhood fuse box (X50A). You can bypass the X61A altogether and go directly from the S48A to the X50A through the little “nipple” on the large boot on the firewall behind the X50A. You will also need to add diodes on each of the four wires coming from the S48A. Part number IN4004 (eBay).

again why the diodes as they are not in the factory drawings. also I know I could go around X61A but I really don't want to. if I could get the terminals I will make the wires 

Posted

Ok, let me get see what I have. Here is the bulletin about the diodes....

ADC10E7A-D9DE-4307-BF51-DB1F226E9504.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
43 minutes ago, TinkeringFox said:

Ok, let me get see what I have. Here is the bulletin about the diodes....

ADC10E7A-D9DE-4307-BF51-DB1F226E9504.jpeg

ok I see this would make sense if you use aftermarket relays but I plan on using the factory upfitter at X50a not sure how I could add these diodes.

the latest ui bulletin states to delete earlier bulletins I'm looking at 110m.

Do you have a source for the terminals maybe you could sell me some so I could run all the wires from s48a to X61A then x50a and some extra as I also want to retire my second fuel pump relay for my off road lights 

Edited by Bernard Sarazin
added info
Posted

I installed an aux switch bank in my 2015 3500HD, ran the wires to the X50A and had backfeeding to the indicator lights. Also when the power was turned off sometimes the indicator lights would come on as soon as I turned off the key and they would stay on until the courtesy timing timed out. Other times they would stay dark. If I would press AUX4 sometimes the indicator lights for other switches would come on too and stay on until I turned off 4. With the addition of diodes all of this was totally resolved.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, TinkeringFox said:

I installed an aux switch bank in my 2015 3500HD, ran the wires to the X50A and had backfeeding to the indicator lights. Also when the power was turned off sometimes the indicator lights would come on as soon as I turned off the key and they would stay on until the courtesy timing timed out. Other times they would stay dark. If I would press AUX4 sometimes the indicator lights for other switches would come on too and stay on until I turned off 4. With the addition of diodes all of this was totally resolved.

right now without the wires going to X61A the light work as advertised.

they turn on and off when selected.

each switch supplies a ground for the relays at X50a 

Edited by Bernard Sarazin
missed a point
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Been looking through this thread and if anyone would like a cheaper alternative to matching OEM while still making it look nice and clean here is an option. This is my plan.

 

This should keep everything still clean and you could run the wires through the 'Upfitter' hole in the steering column gasket as mentioned earlier and then wrap wires all in split loom and attach to firewall to keep wires out of the way and clean.

Haven't gone through and done this yet but in theory reading through this should be the same thing just a little cheaper alternative.

 

I also attached a quick wiring diagram to help.

I am open to ideas too if someone does not think it would work.

 

 

Final Schematic.pdf

Edited by cfields
  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, cfields said:

Been looking through this thread and if anyone would like a cheaper alternative to matching OEM while still making it look nice and clean here is an option. This is my plan.

 

This should keep everything still clean and you could run the wires through the 'Upfitter' hole in the steering column gasket as mentioned earlier and then wrap wires all in split loom and attach to firewall to keep wires out of the way and clean.

Haven't gone through and done this yet but in theory reading through this should be the same thing just a little cheaper alternative.

 

I also attached a quick wiring diagram to help.

I am open to ideas too if someone does not think it would work.

 

 

Final Schematic.pdf

 

That's basically exactly how I installed mine.  Been running with it for well over a year with no issues.  Even have the same 3 loads,  Front Lights, ditch lights, and rock lights.  I took it one step further and used the 4th switch to turn on the front , and ditch lights with the high beam when the aux button is activated.  To accomplish this I had to use a 5th relay.  

 

Schematic of mine.

 

OZU92Uc.png

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
 
That's basically exactly how I installed mine.  Been running with it for well over a year with no issues.  Even have the same 3 loads,  Front Lights, ditch lights, and rock lights.  I took it one step further and used the 4th switch to turn on the front , and ditch lights with the high beam when the aux button is activated.  To accomplish this I had to use a 5th relay.  
 
Schematic of mine.
 
OZU92Uc.png
 
 
 

How did you go about mounting the ditch lights? I am drafting up ideas now for mounting. I did find some from a company but they want like $160 just for the mounts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
2 hours ago, cfields said:


How did you go about mounting the ditch lights? I am drafting up ideas now for mounting. I did find some from a company but they want like $160 just for the mounts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm surprised how few options there are for ditch lights.  I'm only aware of the ZRoads Hood Hinge kit and SDHQ cowl mount ones.  Both are almost 200$ without lights.  

 

I ended up snagging a set of universal hood mounts on amazon for 12$ for the pair.  Had not seen anyone use them before so I gave them a try and they worked very well.

 

TmwmVHz.jpg

bcV2hc0.jpg

Ess8z83.jpg

NNFW38o.jpg

 

Lot more pics over on my build thread.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
14 hours ago, Crazyjoker77 said:

I'm surprised how few options there are for ditch lights.  I'm only aware of the ZRoads Hood Hinge kit and SDHQ cowl mount ones.  Both are almost 200$ without lights.  

 

I ended up snagging a set of universal hood mounts on amazon for 12$ for the pair.  Had not seen anyone use them before so I gave them a try and they worked very well.

 

TmwmVHz.jpg

bcV2hc0.jpg

Ess8z83.jpg

NNFW38o.jpg

 

Lot more pics over on my build thread.

 

Look's Good

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 1/16/2015 at 6:38 PM, smcgillis10 said:

Just got them. And my truck wasn't fitted for the switch so the wires aren't there. So the other post about the blue/green wires don't apply to all trucks. Only trucks with the option installed. So I soldered two connectors onto the board to get a connection point. Each connector has two wires and each wire will go to a different switch and relay. Pins 10-14 are for he aux switched. I'll post a pin out. c0df3b596b45e5f906ef35f0beaf93c9.jpg09a2996216424c446a1bb898f3ac4a0a.jpg41b1ff6b073613b0f667a3bd01b9dcda.jpg8c1932cd7d0e74aaae999e195812c640.jpgc1f5aea365d9f3a612ec63496f1cbf89.jpg29668bc92941f1cc93f786c2192ce79e.jpg

great write up but i wanted to ask one question where is the power wire for this switch bank is it the number 1 pin that is not shown in the schematic?

 

Posted
great write up but i wanted to ask one question where is the power wire for this switch bank is it the number 1 pin that is not shown in the schematic?
 
There isnt really a power wire. These are GROUND side switches.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)
5 minutes ago, smcgillis10 said:

There isnt really a power wire. These are GROUND side switches.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

so this is setup as a ground circuit switch so i would run the gnd wire from the upfitter pins and use the gnd wire on the relay to open and close the relay am i thinking the right way? also can i use just the regular 4 pin relays or do i have to use a different relay tia

 

Edited by 94yj

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
    • I have four that read by the dash 8 to 10% better than miles/pump calculations and I have one that is spot on. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...