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Bilstein shocks thread

yanzhixiang

By yanzhixiang
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JacobC1983 Enthusiast

JacobC1983

Posted
Posted

It looks like the Bilstein 5100s will be about $650 installed here... Tell me it's worth the upgrade over the Rancho shocks that came stock on my 2015 GMC Sierra with Z71 package.

 

 

This will help ride quality from being so harsh and bouncy, right?

 

I am new at this.. This is my first pickup.. I am coming from an Avalanche.

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bwilloby46
bwilloby46

I put the bilstein 5100s on the rear of my 14 High Country with a new 2" block a few weeks ago. Ride is unbelievable compared to stock. Liked it so much I got the adjustable 5100s for my front, remove

schloppy
schloppy

Hello, I'm not new to the forum but I just joined and figured I'd contribute to the community.   2016 Silverado 1500 "Z71" removed rancho's and swapped with Bilstein 5100's all around. So after d

Jullian is not my name
Jullian is not my name

I just got done with installing my 6112's on my 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Cab.  Reading some install guides on here really helped, along with printing some Chilton Repair guide torque specs that I got from

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jrob56 Enthusiast

jrob56

Posted
Posted

It looks like the Bilstein 5100s will be about $650 installed here... Tell me it's worth the upgrade over the Rancho shocks that came stock on my 2015 GMC Sierra with Z71 package.

 

 

This will help ride quality from being so harsh and bouncy, right?

 

I am new at this.. This is my first pickup.. I am coming from an Avalanche.

 

I found them for about 340 for parts front and rear from 4wheel parts. Can you not install yourself?

 

Im going with the 2inch front level from motofab for now, costs me next to nothing and waiting to see about these 6112's. So I cant say if another 300 for install is worth it.

JacobC1983 Enthusiast

JacobC1983

Posted
Posted

Yea I can't install them myself, unfortunately.

 

Somebody who has gone from the stock Rancho shocks to the 5100s for general drive ability and comfort... This is worth the upgrade?

Mack207 Enthusiast

Mack207

Posted
Posted

$650 installed is very high for 2 hours of work. I would order them myself then take them to a shop to install. Install should be around $100, then another $50 for front alignment.

 

All you really need to install these is a table mounted vice and rented strut compressors.

 

I just switched for the Rancho's to 5100's on the 2nd (+0.75" lift) setting, and it's a huge difference. No more bouncing making a low-speed turn, and the truck feels much more stable on the highway. I've run 5100's on my past three vehicles, and they're always worth the price. I install everything myself though.

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Zasker1 Enthusiast

Zasker1

Posted
Posted

This is a great visual of the snap ring settings...

 

http://s784.photobucket.com/user/ajantics/media/Chevy%20Silverado/Screenshot%202015-12-17%2009.30.12.png.html

 

 

I started off with the snap ring at the highest setting / 1.85" of lift and a .5" bottom block, it was way to stiff and the drive was unbearable.

 

I then had a shop move them down to the 3 snap ring position / 1.26" of lift, and have been driving on that for 5 months. The ride is better but the front is still significantly stiffer than the rear thus the truck feels out of balance and tends to dolphin / porpoise on the freeway over bumps. I have been countering this by running my rear air shocks at 15psi but I have had enough and will be taking it into a shop on Monday to have it moved to the 2nd position or .75", which should balance out the ride. I am only paying $160 to have this done so shop around before you pay $650. Find a locally owned shop to do the install, then take it to a chain to have the alignment done.

 

I hate being the guy that has tried/paid for each setting but that apears to be how it worked out.

poitras.matt@gmail.com Enthusiast

[email protected]

Posted
Posted

This is a great visual of the snap ring settings...

 

http://s784.photobucket.com/user/ajantics/media/Chevy%20Silverado/Screenshot%202015-12-17%2009.30.12.png.html

 

 

I started off with the snap ring at the highest setting / 1.85" of lift and a .5" bottom block, it was way to stiff and the drive was unbearable.

 

I then had a shop move them down to the 3 snap ring position / 1.26" of lift, and have been driving on that for 5 months. The ride is better but the front is still significantly stiffer than the rear thus the truck feels out of balance and tends to dolphin / porpoise on the freeway over bumps. I have been countering this by running my rear air shocks at 15psi but I have had enough and will be taking it into a shop on Monday to have it moved to the 2nd position or .75", which should balance out the ride. I am only paying $160 to have this done so shop around before you pay $650. Find a locally owned shop to do the install, then take it to a chain to have the alignment done.

 

I hate being the guy that has tried/paid for each setting but that apears to be how it worked out.

Try ditching the bottom block!

 

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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poitras.matt@gmail.com Enthusiast

[email protected]

Posted
Posted

Hit send instead of enter....

 

5100s are not designed to be used with any lift blocks. If you keep lowering the ring, just ditch the block and use them as designed. Worth a try

 

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

jrob56 Enthusiast

jrob56

Posted
Posted

Yeah that should have been the first try to remove block. Much easier then disassembling and lowering snap ring.

Zasker1 Enthusiast

Zasker1

Posted
Posted

How would dropping the bottom block out have any impact on the preload of the spring given that the preload aIs a result of the distance between the shock perch and the top of the strut.

 

The only impact of having the bottom block on the shock has an additional half inch of lift.

jrob56 Enthusiast

jrob56

Posted
Posted (edited)

Your altering geometry and adding preload. 5100s weren't designed to have a block with them. From what I've read, the people that post with the most ride issues tried to run a block or something with the Bilstein. Bilstein has a whole article/video on why spacers top and bottom are inferior to a leveling shock. If I can find it I'll add it here.

 

Just don't get why people try to do both. Your combining parts never meant to be used together and blame parts for less than ideal results.

Edited by jrob56
  • Like 2
Edelman13 Enthusiast

Edelman13

Posted
Posted

How would dropping the bottom block out have any impact on the preload of the spring given that the preload aIs a result of the distance between the shock perch and the top of the strut.

 

The only impact of having the bottom block on the shock has an additional half inch of lift.

Get rid of the bottom block and it won't be so harsh. I have mine at the top setting. Yes it's stiff but it rides like a truck should nothing out of the ordinary. Try taking them off before you drop more cash on paying a shop to mess with the settings on the bilsteins. If it's not good. Then when you have the shop adjust the bilsteins....have them out the block back in. Process of elimination. ...you've adjusted the bilsteins once, still not what you want, try something else.. Good luck. PS. The bilsteins were the best investment could have done on my truck. People constantly comment on how nice it rides.

Mack207 Enthusiast

Mack207

Posted
Posted

The only impact of having the bottom block on the shock has an additional half inch of lift.

The 5100's are longer than stock shocks, so any spacer added makes them an even longer assembly, which can over-extend the uca ball joint and cv joints. If you have the aluminum suspension, you'd be lucky to get a 1/2" spacer in without the uca contacting the bump-stop.

 

It was my original plan to run 5100's on the 2nd setting with a 1" bottom spacer, but after I saw how much longer the 5100's were, I knew it wouldn't work without contact.

  • Like 1
MRTMotorsports Enthusiast

MRTMotorsports

Posted
Posted

Official Update on the 6112:

 

6112's are coming slowly but surely. 1st gen Tundra and 3rd gen 4Runner were released to the plant some time ago. I am hoping mid summer for market release.

As for the domestics (Ram 1500,F150, GM1500), these are almost finished for development... getting really close, but once they are released it's going to be another 6 months for production. I have actually ordered the Ram but I have been told the 14- F150 and the 07- GM are close behind for placing our first production order.

 

 

Looking like an October release for the GM trucks 6112.

southern_sierra Enthusiast

southern_sierra

Posted
Posted

Official Update on the 6112:

 

 

 

 

Looking like an October release for the GM trucks 6112.

The way this process has been going it will be April of 17 next. :tumbleweed:

  • Like 2
jrob56 Enthusiast

jrob56

Posted
Posted

Official Update on the 6112:

 

 

 

 

Looking like an October release for the GM trucks 6112.

Thanks for the update. I went with a motofab 2 inch block in the meantime. Let us know if you find out more.

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