Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a RC 2.5 Level with the taller rear block and its kind of bothering me how my truck still has 1" of rake. Only I can notice it I'm sure but I was wondering if I could get a set of Bilstein's in the front to fix this? Besides going back and putting the stock block back in of course... Any advice to make it completely level?


Posted

 

I have a RC 2.5 Level with the taller rear block and its kind of bothering me how my truck still has 1" of rake. Only I can notice it I'm sure but I was wondering if I could get a set of Bilstein's in the front to fix this? Besides going back and putting the stock block back in of course... Any advice to make it completely level?

Because the Bilsteins are longer than the stock shocks, you would most likely get control arm to droop stop contact. Do you have the aluminum or steel suspension?

Posted

Because the Bilsteins are longer than the stock shocks, you would most likely get control arm to droop stop contact. Do you have the aluminum or steel suspension?

 

The control arms are steel if that answers your question. Not sure about anything else

Posted

 

I have a RC 2.5 Level with the taller rear block and its kind of bothering me how my truck still has 1" of rake. Only I can notice it I'm sure but I was wondering if I could get a set of Bilstein's in the front to fix this? Besides going back and putting the stock block back in of course... Any advice to make it completely level?

Are you suggesting adding more front height by doubling up on leveling with spacers and adjustable shocks? I have not read about anyone having success with this. A 1" rake, in my opinion is ideal. It is not noticeable and you can carry a light load without looking overloaded!

Posted

Are you suggesting adding more front height by doubling up on leveling with spacers and adjustable shocks? I have not read about anyone having success with this. A 1" rake, in my opinion is ideal. It is not noticeable and you can carry a light load without looking overloaded!

 

yeah that's what I was wondering. I'm just a perfectionist/ maybe some OCD. It's barely noticeable and I probably shouldn't have measured it lol. I'll get over it

Posted

I have the 5100's front and rear on my truck and I love the ride. Doing a zone 4.5 lift keeping the 5100's up front but bilstein does not offer a lifted shock for 2014-on 1500. 2013 1500 shows a part number and 2015-on 2500 also shows a lifted rear shock. What should I do??

Posted

The problem with adding 5100's to a spacer is that the 5100's are longer than stock shocks. So when you add a spacer, the shocks become even longer than stock, and the suspension has the ability to extend further down. You could get new UCA's that allow for more droop, but then you may overextend the tie rods and cv axels. If your running any sort of front diff drop bracket, it will help with the geometry, but in the end, 5100's with a spacer will still provide more droop than what the drop bracket is designed for.

 

My suggestion is to run 5100's alone, or with a smaller spacer than whatever came with any spacer kit you bought. Trucks with aluminum front suspension would be hard pressed to get even a 1" spacer in between the 5100 and the coil perch or lower CA before the uca contacts the droop stop on the frame (I tried it).

 

I'm going to try 5100's on the second setting (.75" lift) and either a .50" or .75" spacer below the shock. I think any more than that the cv's will be very unhappy when the suspension is fully extended. And yes, this will only be around 1.5" of lift, but I will have more droop travel over stock shocks and a spacer that gives a similar amount of lift. Function over form. I may go to a 1" spacer and new UCA's if this setup works out and the driveline geometry is too out of whack.

Posted

Hello all total newb here, I've been reading a lot lately and still can't decide what to do. I recently bought a new to me 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 that has a leveling kit and bigger rear block installed and having never had a leveled truck I'm not too crazy about the ride quality, it's got about 1" of rake which is just fit with me. I'm debating a couple things, 1) install bilstein 4600 shocks and leave the leveling kit on and hope it makes it a little better. Or 2) get bilstein 5100s for all 4 corners and remove the front kit all together. The truck also has ~33"X11" ko2's on some 18" kmc wheels. I do a considerable amount of off pavement driving as we go camping and hunting all summer and fall so I'm just looking for a little better ride. So I guess my real question is this, do bilstein 5100s ride "nicer" than a block leveling kit up front? I just don't really like the "jarring" when I got a pothole or bigger bump. Thanks for any input you guys can share

Posted

Hello all total newb here, I've been reading a lot lately and still can't decide what to do. I recently bought a new to me 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 that has a leveling kit and bigger rear block installed and having never had a leveled truck I'm not too crazy about the ride quality, it's got about 1" of rake which is just fit with me. I'm debating a couple things, 1) install bilstein 4600 shocks and leave the leveling kit on and hope it makes it a little better. Or 2) get bilstein 5100s for all 4 corners and remove the front kit all together. The truck also has ~33"X11" ko2's on some 18" kmc wheels. I do a considerable amount of off pavement driving as we go camping and hunting all summer and fall so I'm just looking for a little better ride. So I guess my real question is this, do bilstein 5100s ride "nicer" than a block leveling kit up front? I just don't really like the "jarring" when I got a pothole or bigger bump. Thanks for any input you guys can share

I installed the 5100s on all four corners on my 14 silverado Z71 and thought the ride was great. The highest setting leveled the truck perfectly. I went with the leveling shocks over the spacer kits so that the ride quality would be better.

Posted

I installed the 5100s on all four corners on my 14 silverado Z71 and thought the ride was great. The highest setting leveled the truck perfectly. I went with the leveling shocks over the spacer kits so that the ride quality would be better.

 

Thanks for the reply man, so you would think if I removed the front kit installed the 5100s all around with the fronts on the highest setting and kept the bigger rear block it would still keep a little rake and ride better?
Posted

Thanks for the reply man, so you would think if I removed the front kit installed the 5100s all around with the fronts on the highest setting and kept the bigger rear block it would still keep a little rake and ride better?

In my opinion, yes; however, I'm by no means an expert on this topic. You need to make sure the bigger rear block is within tolerances for the rear shocks. If I remember correctly you can use a block up to one inch taller than the stock block, but you'll need to confirm.

Posted (edited)

i have the rancho shocks and a rough country 2.5" level kit. if i put the bilsteins 5100 shocks in should i removed the level kit

From the research I did last year, I think you should remove it - at the least, the front spacer. I remember reading about a lot of folks trying to use the 5100s with a level kit and it didn't work well on the front end. I would not leave the front spacer on with the 5100s; though you may be able to leave the rear block (I'm assuming your level kit came with a replacement rear block since it's a 2.5). Others with more expertise and experience may be able to offer better guidance.

Edited by pcruis1
  • Like 1
Posted

Hello all total newb here, I've been reading a lot lately and still can't decide what to do. I recently bought a new to me 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 that has a leveling kit and bigger rear block installed and having never had a leveled truck I'm not too crazy about the ride quality, it's got about 1" of rake which is just fit with me. I'm debating a couple things, 1) install bilstein 4600 shocks and leave the leveling kit on and hope it makes it a little better. Or 2) get bilstein 5100s for all 4 corners and remove the front kit all together. The truck also has ~33"X11" ko2's on some 18" kmc wheels. I do a considerable amount of off pavement driving as we go camping and hunting all summer and fall so I'm just looking for a little better ride. So I guess my real question is this, do bilstein 5100s ride "nicer" than a block leveling kit up front? I just don't really like the "jarring" when I got a pothole or bigger bump. Thanks for any input you guys can share

the 33" LT tires are adding to the roughness you are experiencing. KO-2's are LT tires and I believe are an 8ply C load range or 10 ply E load range depending on size. Much firmer than the P metric tires that came on the 1500.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,296 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...