Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

no retro fit kit, just added the bulb and ballast.

simple as that

 

edit: fog bulb says H16 on my box. my brother has a silverado and he says its the same as his. :)

I believe its the 5202 Bulb

Can we get some pics of his?

Posted

2cc1f0167bbf08bfe3a82a0b21c17c80.jpgc4f27bf2210d88bf1939dd02c43e8138.jpg0b178d12c81887d009402e1a4676a52f.jpgbb8076dcaa1f3dda189c27165d295aa5.jpg3d416aa60af5063530cf4be9ba6c5657.jpgd67d6d1ae2b1b3f4bad3510855236d6a.jpg

 

Both with and without fogs. Brighter pictures are with both on. The lower light pics are just headlights

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

So these are LED headlights and Fogs?

 

These things are super bright for not having the FXR retro fit done.

Edited by davidncurtis
Posted

So these are LED headlights and Fogs?

 

These things are super bright for not having the FXR retro fit done.

Yes both are LED

They're pretty bright. The fog lights make all the difference.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Yes from your pictures these lights are insane. I'm in contact with the seller to get a pair as we speak. Will report back with results

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

so can I safely run the 50W system on my 15 sierra without melting anything? I really dont want to have to buy new headlights

Posted

I did my FXR upgrade a couple days ago, after having halogens, 55W HIDs, 45W LMZ LEDs, all in the stock projector, and then now finally doing my FXR upgrade, I can confidently say that the FXR upgrades are far beyond being worth the cash and work to put them in (for the Sierra guys, the Silverado guys have it much easier to install). I love my FXRs. Already have a few friends with non projector housings wanting me to take a stab at retrofitting lights into their vehicles haha

any issues with melting? im trying to decide on the 35w or the 50w kit from morimoto but have heard that 50w+ can melt things

Posted

any issues with melting? im trying to decide on the 35w or the 50w kit from morimoto but have heard that 50w+ can melt things

0 issues what so ever so far. And believe me, they get used often and for long periods of time. Majority of my distance driving is done while the sun sleeps

 

 

- Mike

IG: @BlackPearl_Edition

  • Like 1
Posted

I mean I don't always drive at night. More of a city daily driver. I just don't wanna be unhappy if I get the 35w kit

Posted

I mean I don't always drive at night. More of a city daily driver. I just don't wanna be unhappy if I get the 35w kit

 

 

if you are in the city then you definitely won't be unhappy, even more so if you don't have a tinted windshield. I have so many lights on my truck cause I hate the city and love tint lol. Not a bad combo during the day, but at night, it can be fun sometimes

Posted

Sooo.. Whats the best one of the two the morimoto hid or vled lmz ?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Yes. They're plug and play.

Brighter than stock. Get the fog light kit as well. That's what makes the difference.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Happen to have a picture showing just the headlights on? With the install of the LED bulbs & ballast, are you still able to use the round covers on the headlamp assemblies?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Sounds like converting will be a bigger endeavor than I was thinking. This truck doesn't have 2Hi like the Suburban did. The Tahoe has 4Hi and 4Lo and a button to turn of traction control.   From what I understand the Stabilitrak uses open diff in the front and rear. When wheel speed is not the same the stabilitrak uses the ABS system to slowdown the spinning wheel(s) to transfer power to the slower non-spinning wheel(s). I thought the transfer case was open too. Being able to transfer power either more to front or rear depending on wheel spin. Maybe I miss understood some information with you saying and power transfer is 50-50. Thanks
    • My brother has a 2007 Avalanche with afm 5.3. It`s got 176,000 miles. Runs like a clock. Never been apart. Co worker has a 2010 Tahoe with afm 5.3. 230,000 miles. Never been apart. Runs like a clock. So, even though cyl deac is a weak spot, they can go the distance.   BUT, these engines had the oil changed regularly, AND had 5w30 as spec. I wonder if they would have lasted this far on 0w20? I`ll bet not.
    • I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...