Jump to content

dust issues in cab


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey there, I was wondering if anyone else was experiencing any dust issues inside of their cab? I know some had issues with dust coming through the vents of their pickup, and I had the system reprogrammed for that. The dust I am getting is coming from my rear doors. I've had my truck in multiple times and they ended up replacing the door seals because they appeared to be shot, they haven't seen anything like it on a new pickup. Now I am starting to have this problem again. I live on a gravel road in Iowa and if I crack my window while driving down a gravel road dust starts rolling in from the backseat doors. They have told me that with the pressurized cab and the window being down, the cabin has to pull air from somewhere. They tell me this is normal and there is no fix. Any other similar issues out there? Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Posted

From what I understand it should be the opposite if you crack a window while driving. Air flow should go outside from inside the cab. You see this if you watch someone that smokes and they hold the lit cig near the crack in the window, the smoke will flow outside.

 

The only thing I can think of is that maybe the rear door isn't lined up right or something like that. I haven't heard anybody else with this issue. If it looks lined up like it should then I don't know.

Posted

Hey there, I was wondering if anyone else was experiencing any dust issues inside of their cab? I know some had issues with dust coming through the vents of their pickup, and I had the system reprogrammed for that. The dust I am getting is coming from my rear doors. I've had my truck in multiple times and they ended up replacing the door seals because they appeared to be shot, they haven't seen anything like it on a new pickup. Now I am starting to have this problem again. I live on a gravel road in Iowa and if I crack my window while driving down a gravel road dust starts rolling in from the backseat doors. They have told me that with the pressurized cab and the window being down, the cabin has to pull air from somewhere. They tell me this is normal and there is no fix. Any other similar issues out there? Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Try windows up and with the setting on fresh air so it pulls thru the filter.

Posted

Not with the windows up....and the HVAC running.

 

The whole idea is to draw air through the cabin filter and use it to pressurize the cabin space.

Posted

I haven't ran to any issues wat so ever "dust" be advice is put a fog machine inside and find the leak ???

Posted

I don't think I have the issue...just curious because it will go auto recirculation when it feels like it

Posted

There was a TSB on this last year in regards to customers complaining of excess dust in the cab. The remedy was to reprogram the HVAC module in how the recirculate blend door operates.

Posted

I did have that done but I wasn't having dust come in from the vents. You can see a line of dust that comes through the rear door seal. I know exactly where the dust is coming from and they tell me this is what's going to happen. If its what's suppose to happen, why haven't I heard of anyone with the same issue?

I did have that done but I wasn't having dust come in from the vents. You can see a line of dust that comes through the rear door seal. I know exactly where the dust is coming from and they tell me this is what's going to happen. If its what's suppose to happen, why haven't I heard of anyone with the same issue?

Posted

There was a TSB on this last year in regards to customers complaining of excess dust in the cab. The remedy was to reprogram the HVAC module in how the recirculate blend door operates.

If I remember it correctly, the issue also was that the recirculating door did not close fully (by design or programming) and this also caused unpleasant odors to enter while in the recirculation mode.

  • 5 years later...
Posted

I have Two 2020 silverado's and work in agriculture and are up and down gravel roads all day long.  I have never had any issues with other chevy trucks that I have had but both of these can go down a gravel or dirt road and the cab will fill up with dust...you will almost choke on it...It is terrible.....Anyone have any thoughts or been having issues

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
    • It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...