Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok, so lately I've been noticing the 6.2 stumbling a bit, hesitating, lower mileage - even more than expected for winter - etc. and began getting more concerned about intake valve buildup. 26k miles after all. Decided to Seafoam/CRC. Went with the CRC GDI IVC because #1- it appears to be a product developed specifically for this application instead of generalized top engine cleaning such as Seafoam (which I'll say has served me well in the past and may do just fine) and #2- Anything with a name comprised entirely of acronyms must mean business.

 

Oh. My. God.

 

The difference was simply amazing. I guess the bad behavior had sneaked up on me, but I had no idea just how bad it had gotten. Worth EVERY penny. Even has a $5 mail in rebate right now. I'm gonna do this every 5k miles.

 

  • Rough idle - gone
  • Off idle stumble - gone
  • Not-so-smooth acceleration - gone
  • Power - it's back
  • Mileage - early reports from ~100mi would suggest absolutely no less than a 4 mpg jump. No joke. Amazed

I was expecting a big puke of soot, but nothing. Nada. Not seeing that made me think it hadn't worked, well boy o boy was I wrong!

 

If you have 10k or more on your truck go to Autozone NOW and grab a can. Only takes an hour total and you will thank yourself for it!

  • Like 3
Posted

Going to definitely consider this on my next oil change....I just cleaned the mass airflow sensor and changed air filter and noticed a smoother throttle response.

Posted

Do you run a catch can?

 

Nope, but guess who just ordered an ADD W1 :thisguy:

Posted

Considering that this is pulled INTO your cylinders, I wonder if it washes the oil off the cylinder walls. Also, does it SOFTEN the deposits or merely loosen them. I'm not sure I'd want hard carbon pulled INTO my cylinders.

Posted

While I don't really disagree with you, I also don't want carbon deposits building up on my intake valves. But alas, that's exactly where we seem to be finding ourselves these days.

 

My guess is that it softens them. Loosening is a difficult thing for a chemical to achieve. A solid piece breaking off and going through the cylinder sounds more like mechanical removal. Besides, you're kidding yourself if you don't think little bits will naturally begin to break off and fly through the cylinder. Probably the big ones too.

 

As for washing of the walls, meh, even if it did it would have a very minor if any effect wearing of the walls long term. The area above the rings shouldn't have virtually any oil anyways.

Posted

Subscribed but y didn't u go with bg or something like I heard it was top notch ???no bashing just curious

Posted

Subscribed but y didn't u go with bg or something like I heard it was top notch ???no bashing just curious

 

As in BG cleaning products or catch can? If cleaning product, well the CRC was just a few miles down the road at Autozone (very handy) and it seems to be getting good reviews. I'll certainly throw my hat in that ring as it certainly worked well, results were immediately obvious from the moment I cranked her back up.

 

The purpose of the post wasn't to tout CRC. I could care less so long as it worked. My point was to share my experience with intake valve cleaning and the benefits therein.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I used this on my work truck and I can say without a doubt it brought the 4.3 back to life it had 90,000 on it at that point. I just redone it at 115,000 and it is still running great. Here is a video of how to do it

  • Like 2
Posted

Seems odd that you would see such an effect with direct injection.

Posted

Seems odd that you would see such an effect with direct injection.

 

Well, air is air. And fuel is fuel. To make it all work you have to have the appropriate amounts of both. With fuel, you can actively pump it into the chamber. With air, it's at the mercy of fluid dynamics. If you have any deposits on your valves (read up a bit, you'll find that it's a issue with virtually all DI engines), then you're not getting the air that you should.

  • Like 1
Posted

I just did my truck with seafoam. I can't tell a huge difference yet, but we will see over time. Used my window scraper to keep the rpm around 2000.

 

8POKpdN.jpg13XXS8X.jpg5k4FhKl.jpg51d2cbi.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted

I may try this the CRC this month as well, I have almost 18k on mine.

 

While DI is good, the bad is that GM recycles all of the oil mist back into the combustion process. While fuel will evaporate, the oil hits the backside of the valves and then get heat baked onto the valves. Even if some bits came off and fell into the cylinder it wont hurt a thing, it will either get vaporized during the combustion process or else pushed out the exhaust valve. only bad then is if the chunks are large enough they will end up in front of the primary cats which could lead to clogged cats down the road.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,467 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...