Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

Hey man congrats on getting back in a truck? Is it the same one that is in your profile pic? I'm in Rome daily, I'm guessing we have probably passed each other on the road.

 

Thanks!, but sadly no, the truck in the picture is the one that I bought but.. because of complications, I no longer have it.

 

I'll update my profile pic with my truck when I actually get it. (It's a really long story.)

 

We very may well have passed each other on the road though, just.. very unlikely that it was in that silver one.

 

I do remember a grommet in the doorjamb and I used it for my wiring, running it inside the fender into the engine bay, but I was always super paranoid that poking a hole in that grommet was going to lead to a soggy floorboard or electrical damage. I really wished that I could have went directly into the engine bay from the cabin, but I just couldn't get it lined up that way.

 

I saw a guy last night with a roof mount light bar. It really lit things up. I may do a light bar behind my grill, once I get my own truck that is.. I'm not sure where I'll mount the switch though (or if I'll even do a switch) because the truck I'm trying to get has a trailer brake controller.

Posted

Great thread! I like the use of the cubby hole for switches, oddly enough the idea never occurred to me as I use that space to keep quarters for shopping carts when I take my 86 yr old mother to Aldi in my grocery getting Reaper, lol.

 

Lots of great photos and info! Very helpful, especially Darkfox and Nitro.

 

Panik - Sorry, I can't be of help with the switch install. When I purchased my Reaper, I had my dealer do several more mods as part of the deal, and they sent the truck to a custom shop.

Posted (edited)

Has anyone ever replaced their driver and passenger heat seat power buttons in the dash with anything cool? haha

 

Sounds crazy, but I have a semi long story as to why I would like to put something else there, ha.

 

 

post-157095-0-71597800-1460927028_thumb.jpg

post-157095-0-71597800-1460927028_thumb.jpg

post-157095-0-71597800-1460927028_thumb.jpg

post-157095-0-71597800-1460927028_thumb.jpg

Edited by Chad M
Posted

There's a wire harness there even if you dont have that option, so you'd have to content with those. iirc the spacing back there is rather tight. A small push button or rocker switch would work for a non-equipped through. If you dont mind risking marring up that silver panel. I dont know what a replacement costs.

  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

Nitro and darkfox, thx for your guidance on these - love the switches and got mine put in and wired up...

 

20160305_110255_1.jpg

sorry, found in he part number I was looking for. I didn't see it on here so the trim part number for the 4x4 with the trailer brake is 22830877

 

2014 Silverado 2WT CC Summit White 4.3L V6

DROPKICK Edition

IG: jorge_dropkick_rangel

https://m.youtube.com/user/jorgerangel159

Edited by NitroDatsik
Posted

yeah, I just used the panel with the cubbyhole since it pretty much was close to the width of the two switches....

  • 5 months later...
Posted

OK so it did make it in today! Which was perfect because it was 69 and sunny outside and I had my afternoon free, so I wasted no time!

 

First, a review of the OtrattW switches and switch bezel: Top notch. The switch mechanics are VERY nice. The etching looks great. You can tell this is a quality product. The bezel clicked together with no issue, I would recommend them!

 

OK, so onto the bezel part of the install. (I have something to order before I can actually wire all this and I need a lot more time for that. Unless someone wants to buy the rims I have for sale. [emoji38] )

 

This part was fairly easy. I'm by no means good at cosmetic modifications like this so for it to turn out good for ME? It will turn out great for you.

 

I used my dremel and 3 bits. A thin cutting/grinding disc, a cutting pencil tip, and a large abrasive block that looks like a rocket cone.

 

100_5877.jpg

 

I covered the plate in painters tape, since its a cosmetic piece. This plastic is VERY fine and makes a particle mess. It cuts very easy and seems to have a low melting point. You will get dirty! USE EYE PROTECTION!

 

I used the bottom edge of the factory hole for the trailer brake as my bottom line, then drew it out with a straight edge. I then traced the box lining it up with the line I drew and "best guess" centered it. Looking at it now it's a bit to the right but, it's not bad!

 

100_5878.jpg

 

This is the bezel. It's pretty deep as you can see. It interferes a bit with the factory clips for the trailer brake harness. You don't have to "remove" them per say.. they kind of break off depending on where you do your cutting. I cut right through 2 of the 3 that are there. The bottom one isn't a problem since its lower for the 4wd controls.

 

100_5879.jpg

 

First cut out. I cut it close with the disc and then finished the corners with th pencil tip. See all that mess? Thats the powder and chunks it left behind. (My workbench is also kind of dirty in this spot cos I do all my cutting here.)

 

The switch plate didn't fit yet, the corners were too tight, as expected.

 

100_5880.jpg

 

You can see here how close the hole is to the edges of the factory trailer brake clips. I wound up tweaking them off with scissors, vynil scissors (for some leverage) and part of the abrasive cone bit.

100_5881.jpg

 

It fits! Oops.. I even clicked it in by mistake. I had to stop here and get it out so that I could get the tape off.

 

100_5882.jpg

 

The rough cut hole is about as well as I'd expect a hand cut hole to be for me anyway. I didn't do much damage to the bezel otherwise. I did knick it in one spot when the pencil tip bounced, but its VERY small and I'm not fussed about it. It looks like a water spot or something. You'd only notice it if you were cleaning for a car show or something.. its that small.

 

100_5883.jpg

 

Switch bezel in place. Fits great! It doesn't look that out of place either.

 

100_5884.jpg

 

100_5885.jpg

 

The 2 switches I ordered are just sitting on the bezel. they have a special removal tool so if you click them in they aren't coming out. I wanna get them wired up before I click them in. Still, this shows you how they match up to the head light switch.

I know I'm late to the party but your pictures are not working... Any way you could repost these pics so I have some guidance in adding an aux switch for my LED light bar? Love your idea and would like to copy of you as much as I could... Thanks in advance

 

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I 2nd that motion

 

Can we get these pics reuploaded. I want to mount a switch that looks like ot could be "factory".

 

I like how Datsik had his where the homelink buttons are. Im thinking where that seatbelt sign is or where the push button for the lights are.

 

 

I'll eventually have 2 switches, 1 for light bar and the other for hazard flashers/strobes

  • Like 1
Posted

I've been trying to find a place to put accessory switches for a while. Then today I find this:

 

8-Switches-Lingenfelter-Reaper-Chevrolet

 

(full link to source here: http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/review/first-drive-lingenfelter-silverado-reaper-54094.html?page=2 )

 

I called lingenfelter which directed me to southern comfort which says they're special order, and hasn't yet given me a price after a few HOURS on the live support chat.

 

Anyone know where else to get such a thing?

 

Also found this from Nitrous Express:

15789.jpg

 

(full source here: http://www.nitrousexpress.com/15789-2014-up-silverado-custom-switch-panel.html )

 

Works.. but its labeled and the buttons are much smaller. I talked to Chris at NX for awhile and he was very helpful. The problem for me on the NX solution is that the labels are etched, so I'd have to buy the switch panel, sand it, then have it repainted, and its already $60.. so that'd cost a lot for such a little thing. I'd prefer the first one. Has anyone seen anything like this?

 

TBH I'm considering reaching out to one of my clients that does CNC/waterjet work and seeing if they can put mein touch with someone to make a generic panel to fit in this spot. I forsee this useless cubby having a big market for switches, and I'm surprised there's so few out there.

 

I like the right switch, need to install one for the right seat and all 3 rear seats positions.

  • Like 1
Posted

 

I like the right switch, need to install one for the right seat and all 3 rear seats positions.

Man that is sweet!

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted
 
I had the cubby and bought the trailer brake panel as it is easier to cut as its flatter. if you are talking full size switches i am doubt you will get a third in there. here is my setup.
 
20150914_060406.jpg



Hello, where did you pick up your brackets to put the switch in from? Thanks
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I just add a switch setup for my rear and front light bar.

Thanks to SkippyG4 for recommending what to buy.

3d65f3b127c4c09ee948bca08e287338.jpg

Posted

Replaced my cubby hole cover plate with the trailer brake cover plate. Then cut out opening for my light switches. Trailer brake cover plate is flatter and accepts switches better with a "factory" like look.

Cubby1.JPG

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

This is a 6 way switch I got on Amazon for 145 alot easier run 1 wire through the firewall had a fuse box with relays awesome set up and fit perfect 

0419182043a.jpg

Edited by Bpracer3c
  • 2 years later...
Posted

Reviving an old thread.. Took WSFD6107 idea of a factory OEM+ look to adding switches. Switch bezel from GM parts direct (part #22830877) and Contura V switches from OTRATTW.

 

 

IMG_34011.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...