Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yes as far as it will go, but raising the gas makes them closer together.

Once your muscle memory adapts to the new locations you'll find that with the seat adjusted they will seem lower.

I pull the telescopic wheel all the way out and move the seat back a little this way the pedals are farther away.

You'll also find if you lower the front of the seat all the way and adjust height of the rear of the seat you can keep your heels on the floor and with the pedals at the right locations it's much easier to navigate the pedals

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Not everybody has the telescoping wheel. Also I don't like the feeling when the seat back is higher than the front of the seat, makes me feel like I'm about to fall out of the seat. I would hate the seat to be like that when I'm riding country roads, especially the once up in Virginia. I need the front of my seat higher than the rear of it so I feel more "planted" in the seat, especially since it's bucket seats.

 

I don't have a problem with the pedal positions, just pointing those out lol.

Posted

Ive always liked the pedal spacing horizontally on GMs. But I'm 6', 240 lbs, power lifters build, with size 14 boots. So I kinda need the extra space. Never really paid attention to the difference in height though.

 

I would try what the one guy said

 

Lower your pedals as low as possible

 

Then disconnect the power wire to the brake pedal adjuster.

 

Then use your pedal adjustment switch to raise your pedals, but it will only raise your gas pedal.

Posted (edited)

This is embarrassing lol, but here it goes...

As ghetto as this is... The picture below shows my pedal set-up for the last two months.

Yes, that is a rubber door-stop attached to my gas pedal with two zip-ties.

It sux that I had to resort to this on a 55K car. But, it has helped tremendously and only costs $5!!! My pedals are perfectly aligned now.

 

dQBLK2P.jpg

 

I still think this is part of the issue. Some people want a car and buy a fancy truck and expect it to be like fancy cars of similar cost. I'm guilty of it in in a lot of ways. But, when I'm tromping around in size 12 hunting boots caked with mud, the pedals make more sense. Guys that hunt, farm or other industrial/commercial users, have different needs than you and I when we have our Florsheim penny loafers on commuting to work.

 

If GM were to offer more configurations, it'd raise costs.

 

You might look at just the gas pedal extension from this outfit.

 

If lateral spacing is still too large for your liking, you could have a clamp on steel piece made to extend the right side of the brake pedal. Or if you want to permanently modify it, have a piece welded to the pedal. But keep in mind you'd probably want to replace that modified part with a OEM part before selling the truck. The OEM brake pedal part is $65.

Miller%20pedal%20extenders_zpspj1bv4p1.j

Edited by spurshot
Posted

I'm 5'4" and find the pedal location and spacing no problem. But I've driven a lot of trucks, some medium and heavy truck also. I don't find the spacing any different than other trucks I've owned.

 

Agree with the post about the brake pedal feel on the truck. In the past i have always felt GM products were "under braked" not so with my 15 silverado. They feel strong and were strong when pulling a heavy load on vacation. Yes i have trailer brakes but the truck cab rear and bed were loaded with gear. Despite that i never had any brake fade on the downgrades. I always felt like there was plenty of pedal left. Just my .02. But GM got the brakes right on these trucks

Posted (edited)

Glad the PO figured out a solution, but this is something I had never thought of or considered.

 

I drove my GMT800 for 11 years without ever thinking about the pedals or spacing, and I jumped into my brand new 2015 like nothing had changed (drivability wise - but holy crap what a better truck!) So the spacing and depths are completely "normal" to me. I'm 5'8".

 

The brake pedal feel on my GMT800 was like a sponge. They have a very nice feel in the 2015. Firm, yet I don't feel like my face is going to go through the windshield if I hit them too hard.

Edited by 67ChevyRedneck
Posted

My GMT800 2500 had the best brakes I've driven. Very confidence inspiring. I do know the GMT800 1500 had puny brake calipers and rotors in comparison. I may be using my 2500 brakes as my reference on this 1500, which may be slightly unfair.

  • 3 years later...
Posted
On 8/5/2015 at 1:18 AM, bass mechanic said:

I have the same frustration, and for me it is a safety issue. any other vehicle has always had the pedals closer in height. the problem is I used to bump my foot on the brake when lifting from the gas. safety issue to say the least as in a panic maneuver I may not be able to get to the brake in time after another attempt.

so here is what I did for both my 14 and my 15

1. move the pedals all the way to the floor

2. disconnect the speedo cable that adjusts the brake height

3. move the gas pedal forward while the brake stays at the lowest position.

4. press memory button and hold the memory setting 1 or 2 depending on what driver preset you use until it beeps 2 times.

 

you'll find the truck a lot easier to drive and the throttle more responsive since you don't have to reach so far to press it and youll find the brake and gas are a lot closer to each other.

 

the only other option is to remove the brake pedal and find a way to bend it more straight. I am just waiting for someone to die because the brake pedal is positioned too high and the NTSB gets involved so GM will actually listen.

 

I've complained about this several times and even GM customer service from this forum suggested I contact my local dealer which I have done with no follow-up on their end.

 

I have a fix so my issue is resolved. honestly I don't know why anyone needs to move the pedals anyway. unless your wife is very short!

Hey Fellow Sierra Owners, 

 

First off, sorry to resurrect a dead topic. I just bought a new Sierra, and I really love the car except for the high brake pedal height Vs the gas pedal. 

I tired following Bass Mechanics steps, however for the life of me I cannot find the speedo cable that adjusts the brake height as mentioned in item 2. 

 

Best Regards,

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I agree with the op. When I'm driving my truck in the city for long periods of time, my right asscheek feels overworked from lifting so high to reach the brake pedal. Also my right inner thigh is a little sore almost like I have a knot in it. 

Posted

I agree with the op. When I'm driving my truck in the city for long periods of time, my right asscheek feels overworked from lifting so high to reach the brake pedal. Also my right inner thigh is a little sore almost like I have a knot in it. 

Posted

I agree with the op. When I'm driving my truck in the city for long periods of time, my right asscheek feels overworked from lifting so high to reach the brake pedal. Also my right inner thigh is a little sore almost like I have a knot in it. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • More is cylinder deactivation. Kia-Hyundai Ive had 4. The warranty is the same 10 years 100K miles. My grandson drives the first one 05 Elantra GT. My wife drives the second one 2011 Genesis. The Genesis still performs as new and looks great. The Elantra looks rough. He’s not kind to it. The third was a Genesis coup. The fourth was a Santa Fe. Those were my daily drivers. I don’t keep them long. Kia is the same as Hyundai with the same warranty. I looked at the K-4 today. Too small, otherwise pretty good buy. Most of Hyundai and Kia’s have a performance upgrade. 
    • Thanks for the point of reference 
    • Great question. Answer....depends. One the volume of the crankcase, the driver that will actually be using the vehicle and the amount it uses plus the distance expected for that next trip. Couple of for instances:   Wife is going to drive Dizzy to Moline and back plus a bit around town so say 500 miles on the day. I know from years with that SUV that around town and local rural it uses about a quart in 1250 miles. But on the Interstate and her at the wheel without her anchor nagging her she'll push it and it will drop a quart in about 800 miles. Hence, around town I wait to somewhere between a quarter down to a quart down. On her trip I'd top it if it was down a few ounces and hope for the best.    Have I overfilled one? You mean by adding before it needs a full quart I assume. No, not once after finding the true fill mark.  I know the dipsticks of everything I drive and add what it needs. I learn this by doing the first oil change a quart low. Run the motor for a few minutes. Let it sit over night. Check and mark. Then add half a cup at a time making note of the place on the stick. I add through the dipstick tube with a barbeque basting bottle. Give it a few minutes to drain down and check again.    A vehicle like Dizzy that uses this much oil will take a few quarts between 3K changes. I keep one in the vehicle with the bottle and a bag. (Mindful of it's fullness) Not a big deal and never makes a mess of it. There is no such thing as "multiple quarts' in my shop for any specific oil. There will be a maximum however of the number of different oils used over the fleet.     Dizzy holds a nominal 5 quarts. So the first fill was indeed over as it actually took 4.75. My vehicles are fit with Valvomax valves so I can meter an ounce on the drain if need be. Found her mark first crack at it. Never to be repeated.    Pepper uses none between changes so I don't keep a quart in that one. Straight up 6 quarts put her dead on the full line. Check it ever fuel stop. They will surprise you when they start using.    Raven holds 3 liters or 5.44 ounces over three quarts. I add 3 quarts and 6 ounces. That gives me 5 oil changes on my orphan quart.    Lawnmower holds about 3/5 of a quart. I don't over fill it to prevent an orphan. So yea, depends. 
    • 185k on original 6.2L engine and 10 speed. 6" lift with 35" tires. Changed oil (Mobil 1 synthetic) when truck told me to. Original tranny with original fluid and no service or flush done. All highway miles. A/C compressor replaced at 155k. Oil cooler line replaced at 180k. Still daily driver. Love this truck.   This is my 3rd 6.2L vehicle (2008 Yukon Denali / 2018 Cadillac Escalade) with over 150k miles and no issues. Denali had broken motor mount at 100k.
    • 185k on original 6.2L engine and 10 speed. 6" lift with 35" tires. Changed oil (Mobil 1 synthetic) when truck told me to. Original tranny with original fluid and no service or flush done. All highway miles. A/C compressor replaced at 155k. Oil cooler line replaced at 180k. Still daily driver. Love this truck.   This is my 3rd 6.2L vehicle (2008 Yukon Denali / 2018 Cadillac Escalade) with over 150k miles and no issues. Denali had broken motor mount at 100k.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...