Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Okay, Over the last year or so when I hit patches,pits,bumps etc. in the road my steering column has had a rattle/clunk in it. I have replaced the plastic steering column bearing and installed the latest ISS revision because there was a little play in it and I thought that would solve it but it hasn't.The play is coming from the inner shaft where the ISS bolts to under the dash. Any ideas on how to fix this?

 

 

Truck is a 03 Silverado 1500

Posted

I replaced the upper shaft in the video (ISS) and the steering column bearing and it reduced the problem but didn't fix it. The play is coming from the shaft that the ISS bolts to and goes into the bearing. Thanks

Posted

Mine has been doing that for 265,000 miles now. Hasn't got any worse.....

 

I've just gotten used to it at this point.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Pretty common on these years. A friend of mine had the same problem on his 03, mine does it now and then as well. He said the local mechanic told him there's a sleeve of sorts that slides over the steering shaft as it comes out of the firewall. Although I have yet to investigate it to see exactly how it works, he says the sleeve is supposed to have some grease in it and it gets dry and hence the noise. He said there's a bolt that you take out so you can slide the sleeve back and forth to get the grease back in there and that solves the noise. Gonna have to check that out one of these days.

Edited by ifixedit
Posted

Probably the same issue our 2002 Yukon had. They greased the slip joint 3 times before they finally replaced the whole thing under a "goodwill warranty repair".

Greasing it would make the problem go away for several months. I guess you could just keep doing that.

 

Ours was worse when turning to the left if I remember correctly.

Posted

Had the same problem on my 03 as I recall.. There was a sb way back when. They greased it a few times always came back. Eventually just replaced it with a "redesigned" unit. Easy to do. There is a slip shaft 2 bolts slide it out and new one in. One right at steering box and the other is right up at the firewall if I remember correctly. Borgeson makes an upgraded unit

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I had some things come up and forgot about this thread. I would like to thank everyone who responded but the part everyone is mentioning here is the intermediate steering shaft that I just replaced with the most recent redesign along with a new steering column bearing (green). I will try to take some pictures later to show what I replaced and where the movement is.

Posted

Mine has been doing that for 265,000 miles now. Hasn't got any worse.....

 

I've just gotten used to it at this point.

I had a GM mechanic tell me a long time ago that the steering rattle was nothing to worry about, but if it was too annoying they would pack it full of grease. Nobody packs it full of grease anymore supposedly because they don't have the right equipment to do it anymore, but he did offer a replacement that was expensive.

Posted

I had a GM mechanic tell me a long time ago that the steering rattle was nothing to worry about, but if it was too annoying they would pack it full of grease. Nobody packs it full of grease anymore supposedly because they don't have the right equipment to do it anymore, but he did offer a replacement that was expensive.

Do you know if they were packing the intermediate steering shaft with grease or something inside the steering column?

Posted

Do you know if they were packing the intermediate steering shaft with grease or something inside the steering column?

I have no clue, I thought they accessed it somehow through the engine bay and that was it, so somewhere on the shaft. If I remember right, there was a special grease gun they used to get it all lubed up....not sure if he was pulling my leg on that though. There are numerous youtube videos about the same problem and different solutions.

Posted

Okay the bottom thing circled in red is the top of the new intermediate steering shaft that runs down through the firewall (New with no play), The top thing circled in red is the new steering column bearing. The shaft circled in yellow bolts to the top of the intermediate steering shaft then runs up through the steering column bearing toward the steering wheel. The shaft that is circled in yellow is the one with play in it but I don't know how to tighten it up...It looks like the bearing is supposed to keep it from rattling but it doesn't. I checked my other truck and it moves to but only about half as much.

Untitled_1.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I used to work for GM, the "solution" was to grease it in the early years, I'm pretty sure that they have a corrected part now as my 2013 does not do it. The part is called the intermediate shaft, and the posts are correct. Back in 2008 you could actually purchase the special grease gun for about 15 bucks. (It was a one shot tube that looked a bit like a toothpaste tube. It is accessed under the hood, there is nothing to tighten and no safety issue even though driving it can be a bit alarming.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

isn't this the typical issue where they disconnect the intermediate steering shaft and just pump it like jacking off to redistribute the grease?

 

yes i just said that, but its because thats what its like. i had same issue as OP and took me 10 minutes to do this. i do it once per year.

 

 

 

and this, though i didn't pump it full of grease. i just jacked it like vid above. works great.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8W7TjXG_BAs

Edited by VikingTrad3r
  • 4 years later...
Posted
On 10/6/2015 at 8:47 AM, xXZ-71Xx said:

Okay the bottom thing circled in red is the top of the new intermediate steering shaft that runs down through the firewall (New with no play), The top thing circled in red is the new steering column bearing. The shaft circled in yellow bolts to the top of the intermediate steering shaft then runs up through the steering column bearing toward the steering wheel. The shaft that is circled in yellow is the one with play in it but I don't know how to tighten it up...It looks like the bearing is supposed to keep it from rattling but it doesn't. I checked my other truck and it moves to but only about half as much.

Untitled_1.jpg

I know this is five year’s old but the solutions provided did not fix the OP issue. I have the same exact issue. I have a brand new Green column bearing as well as a new ISS.  But I still get the rattle/clunk and it seems to come from somewhere between the steering wheel and the column bearing.  I know I’m taking a long shot, but curious if the OP was ever successful in figuring out how to solve the issue. Thanks. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...