Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I bought a 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Z71 Crew Cab 4X4 with the 5.3 engine. I've had it a week and have noticed a ticking noise that sounds like it is coming from underneath the truck at the bottom of the engine. I noticed it two days after I bought the truck but didn't think anything about it. I thought it was normal noise from the engine until I heard another new 2015 running. I can not hear it while driving down the road and the engine runs and feels great. I can only hear it when it is sitting still idling. It doesn't matter if the engine is cold or warm, it happens either way. It doesn't sound like the lifters as I believe they would be heard more from the top of the engine. Any thoughts?

  • Like 2
Posted

They are a bit noisy. Normal noises include:

 

Information For Why New Engine Technologies Are Generating Noises

The latest generation of full size trucks and utilities incorporate a new generation of technologies not previously seen in full size truck and utility applications. As a result these engines generate noises during cold start and during warm operation that owners of previous generation multiport fuel injection (MFI) vehicles may not be familiar with.

Direct Injection (DI) / High Pressure Fuel Pump / Fuel Injectors

The new Small Block Generation 5 engine family incorporates a new fuel system technology known as Direct Injection (DI). With DI, fuel is injected directly into the cylinder using a high pressure fuel system. DI provides many benefits in improving engine efficiency. In particular, DI improves power, torque, and most importantly fuel efficiency. This technology is included as standard equipment on all Generation 5 engines in the Small Block engine family which are the: 4.3L V6, 5.3L V8, and 6.2L V8.

The high pressure fuel system does have unique operating characteristics, in particular the noise emanating from the high pressure fuel pump can result in a subtle ticking noise that is apparent when the vehicle is idling. The sound is more evident when outside around the vehicle, when the hood is open or the vehicle is operated in a drive-through. The sound may be more noticeable during a cold start, but lessens once the engine is warm. A slightly higher pitched clicking sound is the fuel injectors pulsing ON and OFF under the high fuel pressures. These sounds are a normal characteristics of the DI high pressure fuel system.

Another operating characteristic is a slightly longer crank time when the engine is started. The increased crank time is the result of the time required to build high pressure in the fuel system before the engine starts.

Oil Pump Cold Start Rrrrp or Rasp

The oil pump design has changed from a gerotor gear type pump to a two speed vane type pump for fuel economy reasons. At temperatures of 32°F (0°C) or colder, when the engine has been sitting for a few hours it is possible to have air enter the pump through normal oil drainback. Upon startup the owner may hear a short Rrrrp or Rasp coming from the front of the engine. It is most often heard during a remote start. There is nothing wrong with the oil pump or oil system. No repairs should be attempted for this condition.

 

On the not so normal noises, we did have to replace the vacuum pump on a 2014. Truck sounded like it had a lifter tick. You could hear it from the front of the engine, drivers side. I told him to cut the belt, noise stopped. I have heard other trucks do it as well.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I have heard small exhaust leaks present themselves as a tick sounding noise. Since you are mentioning it coming from the bottom, might be something to investigate.

Edited by Graphic
  • Like 1
Posted

Thank you guys for replying to my question. Forums like this are a great tool for people to use to help each other out. This is my first Chevrolet to own. I previously had a Nissan Titan and before that a Toyota. I took the truck in this morning and the service manager listened to it and told me it was the Direct Injectors that what was making the noise. He said he gets two to three new 2015 owners come in a week asking about the noise. He said no need to worry.

Posted

Yes the noises you are hearing are from the direct injection system and nothing to worry about. Mine sounds like it's coming from underneath the truck as well but I think it's because the hood muffles the sound when it's closed. If you open the hood, you'll hear the ticking more clearly from the engine bay instead of underneath the truck.

Posted

I thought it was normal noise from the engine until I heard another new 2015 running.

 

 

He said no need to worry.

I discounted the injectors because of your first post. I am wary of your second post. Might listen to a counple more to confirm it sounds like the others. Mine ticked too. Odd sound but you get used to it.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

They are a bit noisy. Normal noises include:

 

 

On the not so normal noises, we did have to replace the vacuum pump on a 2014. Truck sounded like it had a lifter tick. You could hear it from the front of the engine, drivers side. I told him to cut the belt, noise stopped. I have heard other trucks do it as well.

 

I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 and have a ticking noise louder than just the standard injector tick. I pulled the engine skid guard off and found this:

 

https://goo.gl/photos/tjY5L7pLXUdeWMZw5

 

I think its the vacuum booster and I have an appointment tomorrow at the dealership.

Posted (edited)

 

I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 and have a ticking noise louder than just the standard injector tick. I pulled the engine skid guard off and found this:

 

https://goo.gl/photos/tjY5L7pLXUdeWMZw5

 

I think its the vacuum booster and I have an appointment tomorrow at the dealership.

 

Yeppers. Looks like the three we've changed out. And that vacuum pump sounds damn near the same as an intermittent lifter tick.

Edited by 15HDriver
  • Like 1
Posted

direct injection (in all the 2014+ engines) also has a slight ticking noise at idle. You can hear it when you are next to a wall. It is very feint.

 

JC

  • Like 1
Posted

tresfranklin how many miles did you have on your truck when this happened?

about 4500 when I noticed it. The dealer replaced the vacuum pump with a new part number. Must be a known issue.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I just bought a nee Sierra a year ago. I have 26,000 miles on it and yesterday i started it to leave work and there was a very loud ticking. Checked the oil and it was a quart low. Drove to napa and bought correct oil, added it and still ticking. Sounds to me like its a lifter or valve. Took it to the dealer and they listened to it. I have to take it back today after work and leave it. They want to hear what it sounds like on cold start up. All I have to say is that it wasnt making that noise before!

  • 10 months later...
Posted

I purchased a used 2015 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71 Off Road, 5.3L, from a local dealership in the middle of January 2017 with 21400 miles, now 22800 mile. I never noticed the noise while driving the truck but when I was out of the cab with it running it sounds like it's more than a minor ticking noise. I took it back to get it checked out and the Service Manager at the Dealership said it was normal, took them a week to tell me that.

 

I'm not a mechanic but I'm having a difficult time with their analysis so I recorded the noise for others to listen to - https://goo.gl/photos/uof3kuzJuJ2y7sns6

 

I'm at a loss and this is a sound that shouldn't be coming from any vehicle with less than 25000 miles. Another thing is that I have noticed that the oil pressure shows 30lbs when warm and idling.

Posted

When I test drove my 17 a few weeks ago I heard a ticking that sounded like it was coming from under the driver's side front door area. It was more noticeable next to a wall or another vehicle.

 

The salesman claimed it was normal and the way the newer engines sounded. I wasn't satisfied until I had him start another new truck. It was the same. I drove down to the Sierra dealership and drove a few new ones and they all had the same noise.

 

I notice it the most when I pull through my local credit union drive through or a similar area where the sound bounces.

  • 6 months later...
Posted

They are a bit noisy. Normal noises include:

 

 

On the not so normal noises, we did have to replace the vacuum pump on a 2014. Truck sounded like it had a lifter tick. You could hear it from the front of the engine, drivers side. I told him to cut the belt, noise stopped. I have heard other trucks do it as well.

 

I'm hearing the ticking sound but from the passenger side of the engine. I also hear a slight whine from the engine from inside the cabin while accelerating onto the highway. Due to that "whine" sound, I felt comfortable thinking that it was the belt and at 62K miles like what I have now would be a good time to check it. What are your opinions? I never heard the ticking sound until recently. It honestly has me concerned. Started about a week ago.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...