Jump to content

0w20 idea for those that use it

Cowpie

By Cowpie
in Engines & Drivetrain

Recommended Posts

Z45 Senior Enthusiast

Z45

Posted
Posted

I been using AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-20 in my 6.2L Sierra Denali. I changed over at about 2000-2500 miles and now have 23,000+ miles/14 months 'in service'. I have not used any oil, no discernible loss on the dipstick and I went 13,000 miles on the first AMSOIL change to 15,000 on truck. I am now at 23,000 miles, 8,000 on the oil change and the oil is right on the full mark this am. Friend has same year truck (Chevy) with 5.3L and he uses dealer oil change, always down 1/2 to 1 qts in about 7,000 mile run. He has not idea what oil the dealer puts in and doesn't care, buys new every 2 yrs. Note - He will put 60,000+ miles on it in 2 yrs, hunting and fishing trips mostly.

 

So while the volatility is a indicator of new oil it does not mean it will burn off that exact amount in use as I can attest to.

 

I have used AMSOIL since 1976, no reason to use anything else.

Daryl LBZ Senior Enthusiast

Daryl LBZ

Posted
Posted

Amsoil used for 10k miles, Pennzoil for the other almost 31k miles. Amsoil changed every 5k, Pennzoil changed every 4k.

 

20448dacb992fffb9a0f6d18d533699d.jpg

Cowpie Senior Enthusiast

Cowpie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have no dog in this hunt, as nothing I have uses a 20w oil, but if I did have one, I would probably be inclined to stay with a 5w20 over a 0w20. The NOACK (burn off vaporization rate) is significantly lower for a 5w20 because it needs fewer viscosity modifiers to make the spread. And fewer viscosity modifiers also equates to less viscosity break down due to heat and shearing forces. And unless one has their vehicle sitting overnight in some real nasty cold (-20F is not nasty, -40F is, and windchill only pertains to skin), a 5w20 would do just fine in these engines. At operating temp, a 0w20 and a 5w20 are the same viscosity. Only the cold start flow is different, and for what most people in the U.S. have to deal with for cold, a 0w20 is overkill.

  • 8 months later...
ChevyMan2015 Enthusiast

ChevyMan2015

Posted
Posted

So what filter do you guys like (other than the amsoil fans) and run with your high calcium content Quaker State?

 

 

Fram XG10575. Full synthetic filter and it has show outstanding performance over at BITOG. It seems to be the current darling there.

powerhaulic Enthusiast

powerhaulic

Posted
Posted

I use 5-20 and Wix(napa gold)

I could hear slight cold start noise, on original oil fill.

first change at 900mi, went with a 5w20 dexos bulk oil, not a noise since.

Second change had used 1/2qt. in 5kmi, third change had used no oil in 5k.

Arth Enthusiast

Arth

Posted
Posted

The only comment I have is I am currently using the 0w-20 that is recommended for the 5.3 but will most likely switch to 5w-20 just for ease of use. My 2007 Jeep has 160k on the clock and uses 5w-20 oil so I figure that will be good enough for my truck too down here in Florida.

mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted

I use 5-20 and Wix(napa gold)

I could hear slight cold start noise, on original oil fill.

first change at 900mi, went with a 5w20 dexos bulk oil, not a noise since.

Second change had used 1/2qt. in 5kmi, third change had used no oil in 5k.

 

I chuckled when I saw 0W-20 after I bought truck? First Change was 1000mi replaced with "Chuckle" 0W-20 dexos Mobile 1

Second Change used almost NO oil in 6500 miles. Now, I am at 28,000 miles and going on 10K changes still using 0W-20 dexos Mobile 1 and still not reading and oil consumption, "Chuckles" I just laugh because it's like water and yet I still put in the damn engine?

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

 

I chuckled when I saw 0W-20 after I bought truck? First Change was 1000mi replaced with "Chuckle" 0W-20 dexos Mobile 1

Second Change used almost NO oil in 6500 miles. Now, I am at 28,000 miles and going on 10K changes still using 0W-20 dexos Mobile 1 and still not reading and oil consumption, "Chuckles" I just laugh because it's like water and yet I still put in the damn engine?

Wait until they start with 10 weights and 5 weights...

 

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

gone_fishing Enthusiast

gone_fishing

Posted
Posted

Wait until they start with 10 weights and 5 weights...

 

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

 

0W-16 is already here with 12 and 8 grades on the way.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 395 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AlVeron
      Manufactuer's Defect - Paint Failure - Cherry Red High Country 2021 Suburban

      By AlVeron · Posted

      This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • davester
      2015 Silverado 3500 right rear turn indicator failure

      By davester · Posted

      consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...