5.3L Oil Analysis - First Change

ic3man5 · January 1, 2016

Figured I'd post these, if anyone is curious. This is the factory oil until 2.84K miles - First 1000 driven easy and the rest was mixed with some hard driving.

edit: removed table... Apparently these forums can't handle BBCode tables...

drparker7 · January 6, 2016

wow that's some good info

Chevor · January 6, 2016

I learned this too after oil samples on my new truck.

Wear metals are high in new engines. Short intervals for me until they go down.

fondupot · January 8, 2016

Might as well post my report up. This is from my 4th oil change.

The only thing they found is low flashpoint, which they said could have been from the oil not being up to operating temp when it was sampled. This was my last "free" oil change at the dealership, they probably didn't warm the truck up very long before draining the oil...not a huge deal as indicated in the comments.

Eddie 70 · January 10, 2016

Might as well post my report up. This is from my 4th oil change.

The only thing they found is low flashpoint, which they said could have been from the oil not being up to operating temp when it was sampled. This was my last "free" oil change at the dealership, they probably didn't warm the truck up very long before draining the oil...not a huge deal as indicated in the comments.

Have you had a report done on the oil that comes out of your catch can? I would be curious to see how it compares to a regular oil change.

Haus_Z71 · January 10, 2016

Geeze this makes me worry that I waited until 7500 miles to change mine.

ic3man5 · January 10, 2016

Geeze this makes me worry that I waited until 7500 miles to change mine.

I wouldn't worry too much about it, all those numbers are PPM (Parts Per Million) so 100PPM is only 0.01% Percent. I changed it early to see the numbers and to put a "better" oil in it for longevity.

ic3man5 · January 10, 2016

Might as well post my report up. This is from my 4th oil change.

The only thing they found is low flashpoint, which they said could have been from the oil not being up to operating temp when it was sampled. This was my last "free" oil change at the dealership, they probably didn't warm the truck up very long before draining the oil...not a huge deal as indicated in the comments.

Mine was the same number and It was drained after driving fully warmed up, off for an hour, idled for about 4 minutes, then drained. I just assumed its the nature of the oil.

I'm glad you posted this as now I'll have something to compare to when I get that high, Only 4.3K on the truck so far.

fondupot · January 10, 2016

Have you had a report done on the oil that comes out of your catch can? I would be curious to see how it compares to a regular oil change.

No, never thought to do that. Maybe the next time I send in a sample, I will send some catch can oil along with the engine oil.

ic3man5 · January 11, 2016

Is the catch can something you put on after-market or does it come factory with our engines? Semi interested on doing this since its DI.

spectaculous · January 11, 2016

It's gonna be some oil and mostly water condensed from the air in the intake. I expect moisture content in excess of 50%...

fondupot · January 11, 2016

Is the catch can something you put on after-market or does it come factory with our engines? Semi interested on doing this since its DI.

It's aftermarket. Head to my YouTube channel to learn more.

also this thread is a good read:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/154204-oil-catch-can/

ic3man5 · January 24, 2016

Just did my taxes and ordered an Elite Engineering E2-X Catch Can... Noticed its starting to idle a little rough again even at 600 RPMs...

Probably going to try CRC GDI IVD™ Intake Valve Cleaner before I do the next oil change to see if it helps; I'm kinda convinced I already have a lot of build up with all the remote starts I'm doing and it being winter.

gone_fishing · January 24, 2016

While we are on this subject, here is my last UOA. I do them strictly out of curiosity. I just think it's interesting to see what's going on inside the motor. I'm going back to the regular M1 0W-20 (Advanced Fuel Economy). The M1 Extended Performance 0W-20 really didn't seem to show any different results over the AFE formula. Typically the EP version is a few dollars more then the AFE but when I bought it was on sale for the same price as AFE so I figured why not try it. From the research I did it looks like they both have similar additive packages but the EP formula uses more PAO base stocks (60%-70% vs 30%-40%) with the remaining base stock mix presumably being Group 3.

ic3man5 · January 24, 2016

I think I remember seeing this on bob is the oil guy forums and was one of the main reasons I went with AFE over EP. So thank you for posting this before if its the same one.