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CRC GDI Valve Cleaner spray

FL335i

By FL335i
in Engines & Drivetrain

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FL335i Enthusiast

FL335i

Posted
Posted

I finally broke down at 40k and bought a $13 can of this stuff at Autozone. Which by the way is $9.99 @ Napa, but Napa is far from me and I was at AZ... I've seen the youtube video of it. Been researching. First off, I was expecting a product similar to carb cleaner. It's not. This stuff is very oily. Well I have my wife rev the engine up and I start spraying. Not sure how much is making it into the motor. All the stuff does is pool in the accordion intake tube. So I end up removing the intake box/tube and cleaning up a oily mess from this crap. Put it all back together and tried again tonight. Same results. oily mess pooling in the accordion pipe. I think part of the issue is when you floor it the throttle blade doesn't really open old school style. So I removed the intake box again tonight and cleaned up a 2nd oily mess. Honestly, I don't see HTF this product is supposed to work. It should probably be sprayed into a vacuum tube at the intake manifold behind the throttle blade. Like seafoam, but spray it into the vacuum tube. That is the only way I see this product working. I highly recommend you do not follow the directions of spraying it into the air box tube behind the MAF. Pretty ticked off at this product.

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SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted

Well I have the Airaid MIT tube and didn't seem to have much trouble. Even the first time I used it which I believe was before I got the Airaid. I did exactly what the directions say without a problem. The first time I used it at around 11,000 it did seem to help. Or maybe that was my mind playing tricks on me. I used it again at about 23,000 and haven't really felt a difference, but I'm thinking positive and thinking that it still helped. That's because you probably won't feel much of a difference unless the engine was acting like it had a lot of build up on the valves. The can said to do it every 10,000 miles but not sure if it has to be done that often. Maybe they say it so it doesn't get too bad, or just trying to get you to buy more of it. I hope to put an oil catch can on the truck whenever I'm able to and I'll use it again right before installing it.

 

 

EDIT: I'd also like to add that you have to make sure the straw is up all the way so as perpendicular as it can go. Maybe that was your problem that you didn't have it flipped all the way up.

HondaHawkGT Senior Enthusiast

HondaHawkGT

Posted
Posted

I finally broke down at 40k and bought a $13 can of this stuff at Autozone. Which by the way is $9.99 @ Napa, but Napa is far from me and I was at AZ... I've seen the youtube video of it. Been researching. First off, I was expecting a product similar to carb cleaner. It's not. This stuff is very oily. Well I have my wife rev the engine up and I start spraying. Not sure how much is making it into the motor. All the stuff does is pool in the accordion intake tube. So I end up removing the intake box/tube and cleaning up a oily mess from this crap. Put it all back together and tried again tonight. Same results. oily mess pooling in the accordion pipe. I think part of the issue is when you floor it the throttle blade doesn't really open old school style. So I removed the intake box again tonight and cleaned up a 2nd oily mess. Honestly, I don't see HTF this product is supposed to work. It should probably be sprayed into a vacuum tube at the intake manifold behind the throttle blade. Like seafoam, but spray it into the vacuum tube. That is the only way I see this product working. I highly recommend you do not follow the directions of spraying it into the air box tube behind the MAF. Pretty ticked off at this product.

 

I used the PCV line leading to the intake manifold. The PCV port is the best way to inject it. All the oil and combustion blow-by that cause the carbon buildup problem affect the intake ports closest to the PCV line.

 

After you empty the can and rev it up/let it sit for an hour, make sure you take it out on the highway and work the engine a bit. I hammered on it for a good 20 minutes, doing a few hard accelerations to near redline in order to "get the carbon out" so to speak.

 

I had a noticeable improvement after using it. I didn't have a catch can for the first 10k or so miles, so I had already started to develop a rough idle, off-idle hesitation, etc. Cleared it up.

bdbake01 Senior Enthusiast

bdbake01

Posted
Posted

Dude, no idea what you did different from me, but I'm 3 cans deep and I never had any pooling. Yes I checked.

 

Huge believer. Works great.

FL335i Enthusiast

FL335i

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I did notice a difference in performance after the 1st round. However the shit doen't evaporate. It's like spraying wd-40. Maybe I got a bad can? I'll pick one up at napa and go to the PCV port at the intake manifold.

SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted

Well I did notice a difference in performance after the 1st round. However the shit doen't evaporate. It's like spraying wd-40. Maybe I got a bad can? I'll pick one up at napa and go to the PCV port at the intake manifold.

 

I don't think you got a bad can, at least when talking about the product itself. It's supposed to be like WD-40 oily. I added to my first comment so maybe you didn't see it. But, I think what happened is that you didn't have the straw flipped all the way up. It has to be all the way up and perpendicular to the can to spray right. I had that little problem the first time I used it where it seemed to not be spraying right. Then I realized the straw wasn't flipped all the way up and after I made sure to keep an eye on it I didn't have a problem with it. If it's spraying right the air going through the intake tube should take all of it through the TB.

Ag76 Enthusiast

Ag76

Posted
Posted

The instructions on my can said to spray in 30 second bursts, but the instructions I found on the CRC website said to use one second bursts. I called CRC technical support, and they said CRC had changed the instructions to one second bursts to account for pooling in vehicles with longer air tubes, etc. They said 30 seconds will work fine in vehicles with shorter air systems, such as injecting the cleaner closer to the throttle body.

 

But I've talked to users of the cleaner on the forum who are using the cleaner with 30 second bursts and are having good results with no pooling. I'm getting ready to use my first can of the intake valve cleaner, and may give the one second burst method a try, if my finger will make it through a whole can.

FL335i Enthusiast

FL335i

Posted
  • Author
Posted

^ There is the proof... CRC changed the directions. 1-2 second bursts worked for me! That's what did it for me at the end of 2nd night. I did spurts into the pipe. 1-2 seconds wait about 5 seconds and hit it again. I need to find a vacuum tube on the intake manifold. forget this air box stuff. I also don't know why Marvel Mystery oil wouldn't work through a vacuum port or in a spray bottle into the air intake pipe.... I like MM. And it's $4/bottle @ WM.

 

SouthernSilveradoGuy- the straw was up. Not the issue.

HondaHawkGT Senior Enthusiast

HondaHawkGT

Posted
Posted

It's a waste of not only time, but also spray, to try to get it past the MAF, around the corner, and thru throttle body. Just spray it in the PCV line and be done with it. Unless you've had a catch can on from very early one, you should probably clean the intake at least once before installing a CC. No CC is 100% effective. Using an intake cleaner in combination with a CC is the best approach so far.

FL335i Enthusiast

FL335i

Posted
  • Author
Posted

^ So unhook the PCV hose from the driver side of the intake manifold? I couldn't find jack for vacuum hoses on this truck. jeez.

HondaHawkGT Senior Enthusiast

HondaHawkGT

Posted
Posted

post-129450-0-16852400-1458543187_thumb.jpg

 

Disconnect the PCV line at the front of the block, near the throttle body. keep the other end of the line where the arrow is pointing attached.

 

Since you're going to all this trouble to clean your intake, you should seriously consider installing a catch can. The cleaning doesn't do much good if your engine continues to consume oil and combustion gases.

 

Rock1500 Senior Enthusiast

Rock1500

Posted
Posted

Damn it I wish I read this thread yesterday when I did it. It pooled like a mother ****er in the air intake hose. It Sucked trying to dry it.

 

 

Hondahawk. If you already installed a catch can than trying your method would be a bit more difficult as that hose is already connected to the catch can right?

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

CenTex5.3 Enthusiast

CenTex5.3

Posted
Posted

Wouldn't just unplugging the MAF and going directly into the throttle body work just fine as well? Just clear the codes when done. I do that when I use Amsoil Power Foam induction cleaner on my other vehicles. I'm doing the CRC today for the first time on my truck @ 32k. I'd imagine it's dirty as hell!

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