Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
12 hours ago, Kummie said:

Went to the dealer today and ordered the NEG cable - $210.00!!!!

Jeez! Anything special about it? Couldnt remove and just replace it with a NEG cable from AutoZone? 

Posted

To the original question about "Service Theft Deterrent System"

From the manual, here is a start...

image.thumb.png.28cde37c1c965ce9f2dd3405c1a59ec2.png

image.thumb.png.86d2b2436229c3513598bc77b83c2e8d.png

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I have a 2015 Silverado and this just happened to me tonight. Got in to start it and wouldn’t start and a message came up service theft deterrent system. I was able to use the remote start and it started. From what I am reading it seems like a lot of vehicles are having the same problem. Has anyone figured this out? Is there some sort of reset that can be done?

  • 1 month later...
  • 10 months later...
Posted

I have the same problem on 2014 Sierra.  Last year dealership, replaced ground cable.  Issue started again 2 weeks ago.  No consistency on what initiates the error.  Sometimes the auto start does it, turning key ignition does it and sometimes battery appears dead.  

Posted

I replaced the fuse panel on the top of the battery.  Appears to fix problem but I will see.  All connections were tight but if I moved the panel slightly power would return.  If this doesn't fix it, i will have the positive wire harness replaced.

  • 6 months later...
Posted (edited)

I might have found a solution to this issue. Alternator going bad. I have a 2015 Sierra SLT 6.2L and I was experiencing at random times intermittent power loss when I would attempt to initially crank. Seemed like the batt was dead, I would then attempt a second crank and would start up just fine with a “theft deterrent fault” displaying on digital screen with a caution light. Radio would even reset. I’d then turn off and crank a third time and everything would be fine, no lights or faults on dash. I took vehicle to autozone so they can check the battery and alternator and of course their little pack said everything was fine but I still believed either or was the issue because I would also at random times experience hyper flash while using turn signals with all bulbs and lights illuminating fine. I suspected it to be an issue with the power supply system. So it eventually got to the point where I would get the theft deterrent fault more frequent on top of a “roll window” fault and my alarm system going off for no reason after unlocking car and opening door. Turn signals were hyper flashing just about at every use at this point so I knew whatever the problem is was about to hit its worst point. I then decided to check the battery voltage using a voltmeter with vehicle on and noticed that the voltage was only reading about 12v with a/c max and headlights and fogs on. To me 12v seemed a little low, my interpretation is that it should be +13.5v with vehicle on and alternator charging battery. Even tho autozone said battery and alternator was fine I decided to replace the alternator anyway because I replaced the battery a year earlier. After doing so, I checked voltage again. This time the battery was reading +14.5v with max a/c and headlights plus fogs on. No more hyper flash or issues yet. Been a few days since. Never received a battery light during this dilemma so I can see why no one has figured out a possible issue with alternator. Autozone was no help, lol.

Edited by Vpad89
  • Like 1
Posted
On 11/6/2019 at 11:30 AM, NCPGMC said:

To the original question about "Service Theft Deterrent System"

From the manual, here is a start...

image.thumb.png.28cde37c1c965ce9f2dd3405c1a59ec2.png

image.thumb.png.86d2b2436229c3513598bc77b83c2e8d.png

On 11/7/2019 at 6:05 PM, Kummie said:

That's a great illustration, however, I don't have that on my 2015 Silverado 2500 HD on the upper console - darn it!!!

My 15 didn't have that switch either, but it only seemed to happen on HOT days.  Hasn't happened with my 18, yet.  I think, since it was "highlighted," that he was referring to the "Immobilizer." 

 

  • Like 1
  • 8 months later...
Posted

Last year, my power steering shut off while I was driving, 4 times in one day. A stabiltrack warning came on my dash.

I checked all fluid levels and all seemed fine.

Then for several months, no issues.

All of a sudden, it started happening again.

Now today, I could not start my 2016 Colorado. 

The anti theft light is now on. I was able to jump it to get moving again.

I shut it down and let it sit for about 10 mind and it started up and the light was gone.

Chevy dealerships have not been able to help.

Any suggestions?

 

Posted
On 4/18/2022 at 12:33 PM, MN14 said:

Last year, my power steering shut off while I was driving, 4 times in one day. A stabiltrack warning came on my dash.

I checked all fluid levels and all seemed fine.

Then for several months, no issues.

All of a sudden, it started happening again.

Now today, I could not start my 2016 Colorado. 

The anti theft light is now on. I was able to jump it to get moving again.

I shut it down and let it sit for about 10 mind and it started up and the light was gone.

Chevy dealerships have not been able to help.

Any suggestions?

 

We are having this issue with a 2015 Tahoe. It will not crank on. It just clicks. And the theft deterrent light is on. We can’t get it to start now. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 87 down as low as $5.14 here... winning!
    • Progress... sort of.   Intake is disassembled, spider is out, fuel lines removed. Used a torch on the stripped screw with the lower intake off, much easier when I've got the intake sitting on my workbench, I made it talk. Walked right out with a pair of vice grips once it was nice and toasty hot.   New parts are piling up on my service cart waiting to be installed. Distributor, temperature sensor, new gaskets, fuel line kit, themostat, water neck.   My new pickle is I don't want to spend $600 on a replacement spider. I'm not sure IT is bad. I'm probably splitting hairs. Or it's $300 to send mine away and another 3 weeks of the truck just sitting. I have half a mind to assemble everything with the old spider to see if I can get away with just replacing the fuel pressure regulator to be safe. The obvious issue was the gushing high pressure fuel line which will be replaced. Getting to the spider really isn't that hard, and now I know what I'm doing , swapping it would be a breeze should it absolutely need one. Stupid, or smart?   The part that gives me pause is replacing the distributor. Well, it's already out. And I didn't mark it, whoopsie! Engine was at TDC when I removed it, I know that, so upon correct reinstall the metal tip on the rotor should point to the TDC mark on the distributor because that's where it was pointing on the old distributor. Worst case I'm a tooth off and have to re-stab it.   But then, what? I assume the truck will start. It doesn't appear the timing can be set. Here's the problem: These distributors can't be rotated but a degree or two, by design. What I read is Cam ****** needs to be -2 to +2 degrees, ideally at 0 (and checked/set above 1000 rpm). There should be enough wiggle to get that properly set, but checking the reported value is another potential issue. My Actron 9185 scanner says it supports enhanced GM PIDs and Cam ****** is one of them but it's unclear that I'll be able to correctly see it over OBD 1.5. I can see why people end up junking these things with life left in them. They're an absolute nightmare with tweener-year diagnostics/electronics and unobtanium parts.   Fingers crossed it starts and idles nicely. There can be hope, right? I'ma buy a lottery ticket the same day just in case.   Next steps..DO IT. I have not installed an intake before so I've been reading and watching a lot. Some say NO RTV except on china walls, some say DO RTV on water ports but not fuel/air intake. 1/4 or 3/8 bead on China walls? I think my strategy will be, obviously, RTV china walls with overlap on the gasket corners. Chapstick-style RTV the water ports. Leave intake ports dry. The only set of intake gaskets I could find locally are Edelbrock performance gaskets (uh...for an asthmatic 190hp V6? LOL) so we'll see how they do.   #NoToolLeftBehind. It took an hour, but my recovery mission for my deep 10mm socket was successful. It had rolled down the bellhousing and wedged itself between what I think are the fuel lines? I couldn't see it at all, but with a junk antenna I had laying around, I blindly went poking/sweeping for it, heard it clink, raised the truck, and caught a sliver glimpse of chrome with a flashlight way up there in Narnia. I had pushed it farther along the lines holding it captive, but within access of severely improvised tools, poking and cursing at it to finally knock it free to where I could get a fingertip on it to bring it home.    Not much to see.      
    • Thats crazy considering im right next door (Indiana)
    • For a limited time, retail and commercial accounts receive an AMSOIL Vinyl Tool Tray with their order of $500 or more when they use code TRAY726 at checkout. The promotion runs through July 21, 2026.   Order at https://syntheticadvantage.com   Want to use AMSOIL in your business or sell at your store, apply here.  https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/?zo=521390  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...