Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just cant wait to get my cluster so I can send it to you guys GTPprix. I may call to see how it is tomorrow to see if cheaper than my dealer. Just hopefully they have kept up on the part number changes lol

Posted

I just cant wait to get my cluster so I can send it to you guys GTPprix. I may call to see how it is tomorrow to see if cheaper than my dealer. Just hopefully they have kept up on the part number changes lol

They should have they run a very tight ship! :)

Posted

Hmm. Was the one you got for a 16 LTZ Tahoe? I gave the part number you posted earlier which has changed since then but she said back ordered which sucks because they are 200 cheaper than my dealer wants

Posted

I may call back if you had one 2 weeks ago. Since she said someone has been waiting since July. Which isnt true if you got one. Thanks

Posted (edited)

Let me quadruple check it wasn't a 2017 but I'm 99% sure it was a 16; I'll also check other ESC's if they have any as well.

Edited by GTPprix
Posted

They should have they run a very tight ship! :)

GT, I was going to contact you via website yesterday but I missed the time window. I have a cluster I've found and don't know if it will be around until this weekend to purchase. If possible, I'd like to verify fitment as I'm unsure if I'm in a 2015 or 2015.5 and am unsure of the same for the cluster I'm wanting to purchase. Will contact this weekend if all else fails.

 

Thanks,

 

Skeet

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Shoot us an email now I'll personally check it and find out.

Sent. Thank you.

 

Edit* fbmcnew @gmail is me if you need to filter through thousands of emails.

Thanks again

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by SkeeterMcSkeet
Posted

Let me quadruple check it wasn't a 2017 but I'm 99% sure it was a 16; I'll also check other ESC's if they have any as well.

if you find it that it was a 17 chevy cluster, id be interested in buying it from specmo and sending to you to have programmed for my 2017!

Posted

Let me quadruple check it wasn't a 2017 but I'm 99% sure it was a 16; I'll also check other ESC's if they have any as well.

Any updates?

Posted

They were 2016's but apparently this particular dealer has a deal with them where they keep their stock for this purpose there so they are technically already sold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...