Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Called again it is the new GM redesigned condeneser.

I'm curious to see how GM has addressed the condenser issues compared to how the aftermarket has approached them.

Posted (edited)

Judging by what I've seen and someone mentioned here a few posts ago, I'd say that the dryer wasn't welded properly to the condenser.fec389ec93cd19341bdbd66038227dcb.jpg

Edited by mois93da
Posted

Btw I had to refill the refrigerant again Sunday and I was on the road, I just happened to have my mani gauges in the truck, and my kids and wife were in there with me. I pulled up to o'reily and bought a can tap (happened to have a can of r134 in the truck too) because I had a half can still at home. When I went up to pay for the tap I got curious and asked the gentleman if he could look up a condenser for me, and He says, "we don't have any here but we show three in Houston. Needless to say, i paid for it right away, and went to pick it up. Did the install on Tuesday. It comes with a lifetime warranty.

 

70d1f7d9f3a90bb45b7c4c855f65405e.jpg

  • 6 months later...
Posted (edited)

well my A/C went out yesterday...thoughts??  I don't think it is compressor...

anyone replaced theirs themselves?  thinking it is the condenser...from my research.

im not seeing signs of leaking on the line itself...just the condenser...

i do not have the bracket on the line either.

2014 94k miles

 

IMG_3020.JPG

Edited by JUSTINASS
Posted
1 hour ago, JUSTINASS said:

well my A/C went out yesterday...thoughts??  I don't think it is compressor...

anyone replaced theirs themselves?  thinking it is the condenser...from my research.

im not seeing signs of leaking on the line itself...just the condenser...

i do not have the bracket on the line either.

2014 94k miles

 

IMG_3020.JPG

You’ll need a new condenser and an upgraded/modified line set (aka, a couple of hoses with a Chinese manf clamp :/  )

Posted
11 hours ago, bdbake01 said:

You’ll need a new condenser and an upgraded/modified line set (aka, a couple of hoses with a Chinese manf clamp :/  )

yeah and i ordered the hose off of amazon and the bracket...got a condenser from autozone...

are you saying there is a better modified line available? can you expand on this info?

Posted
6 hours ago, JUSTINASS said:

yeah and i ordered the hose off of amazon and the bracket...got a condenser from autozone...

are you saying there is a better modified line available? can you expand on this info?

The line set is, as far as I know, the same. The bracket/clamp is simply two pieces of metal that span the compressor inlet and outlet to brace them. If that’s the bracket you have, that’s all I know of. 

Posted

Are the 2017's ok or is this something to look out for?  Mine has a build date of February 2017, and by reading this thread, it sounds like the redesign parts may not have been in production yet?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I just joined the party, My Condenser went out at 67,000 miles. What a joy! I am a little late on this thread but I wanted to get some input from the guys that have dealt with this issue already and what seems to be the best route of action. The way I see it I have three options. 

1. Call my local dealer, charm them and try and work out the best possible price.  - my least favorite route.

2. Buy the Condenser and replace it myself. (would you recommend the AC DELCO or a aftermarket brand)

3. I have a good friend with a welding/Fabrication shop. We possibly will be able to do the nitrogen purge and weld that sucker. I am just not sure how the process goes.  < my favorite and cheapest route. 

 If anyone has the information on how to properly flush the system with nitrogen and weld it. I am all ears, If that cant be done I will explore the other options. 

Thanks in advance. 

  • Like 1
Posted

thought i would update to help others out....

i got the murry condenser and replaced it myself... i think it was around $60.00

i also bought the bracket from amazon...$8

my line looked perfect and didn't show any signs of leaking so i didn't replace it.

after replacing the condenser i took it to a local a/c shop i trust and had them pull a vacuum and recharge it...they charged me $100.

overall pretty simple install minus a few bolts that are hard to get to on the underside of the radiator support.

sucks knowing that this is pretty much a defective part from the factory and i had to waste a sunday afternoon fixing it...but i do have 92K trouble free miles, so i can't complain too much.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

thought i would shed some light...

summer is gonna be upon us soon and guess what no ac and i'm in the south!!!

researched problem and i found this thread.  Gm dealer gave me parts at wholesale price so i decided since i am in there might as well replace KNOWN ISSUES..   so i replaced....

1) condenser

2) high pressure line from compressor to condenser

3) installed updated bracket 

4) two band aids later

5) pulled a vacuum and it held (fingers crossed)

not a hard job just be ready to cuss the 3 bolts on the cross member (each side) that are on the bottom

(note video is same for a 2014)

 

  • Like 2
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Unfortunately, my 2015 Silverado fell victim to the same issue right around Jan I think. Luckily it hadn't been too hot after so I didn't think much of it until I started searching for the cause. That's when I came across all the thousands of issues and complaints for the same thing. I took my truck to the dealer where I purchased it only to have them tell me that they didn't have any AC service techs working on a Saturday AND that the part wouldn't be covered under warranty. Oh man was I pissed considering my truck only had like 32k miles on it at the time so it should have been covered under warranty. Anyways, I've filed a complaint and I actually found a replacement online for under $100. I plan on fixing it myself and then having a friend with mech shop recharge the system for me. It really sucks that GM hasn't issued a recall for this issue yet, I'm seriously thinking about trading my truck in for a Tundra after this. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,948
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    zibzer2
    Newest Member
    zibzer2
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 739 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • 2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...