Jump to content

Lower Ball Joint replacement

Mike1220

Recommended Posts

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

hey all, so I did a search about replacing the lower ball joints on these trucks but didn't get anything at all. So figured I would start a new thread and hopefully I'm in the right place. I went to get an alignment the other day and was informed my lower ball joints are already shot. Mainly the passenger side, driver seemed fine but if I'm replacing 1 I might as well do the other. So I asked the shop how much it would cost and was quoted somewhere over $800. Long story short, did some research and the joint is shot. But ball joints only seem to cost $40-60 a piece but most shops seem to want to just replace the entire control arm for sake of time. So I'm going to tackle the job with a buddy of mine who has done some similar work to his 95 land cruiser. But being I'm no genious in the suspension world I was wondering if someone could tell me a good set of lower ball joints that I could go with! I am planning to also switch to Cognito UCAs since doing the ball joints myself seems to have saved quite a bit of money. If anyone could help me locate the ball joints I will need then I'll dance at your wedding!

also if anyone has any tips, tricks, or anything else they would like to add, it would be greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks in advance

 

- Mike

  • Replies 34
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
  • Author
Posted

also if someone could point me in the direction of all the torq specs needed to put everything back together it would be appreciated!

adamatic88 Enthusiast

adamatic88

Posted
Posted

Moog parts are my personal preference, they are a bit more expensive but they last so much longer. They even sell steering and suspension kits.

20L8TSierra24 Senior Enthusiast

20L8TSierra24

Posted
Posted

I had a passenger side lower fail under warranty. Call Chevy and ask them if they'll help you towards parts if your truck isn't too far out of warranty. It's worth a shot.

BuyAmericanIron Enthusiast

BuyAmericanIron

Posted
Posted

Try Rockauto.com. They have a new line that is advertised as being very high quality. Like adamatic, I have used Moog for many years.

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
Posted

Moog is what I use. I don't use torque specs, unless it's on critical parts inside the differential or transmission, which at that point I'm not messing with it lol

silveradosid Senior Enthusiast

silveradosid

Posted
Posted

dont know if the new trucks are the same as the 2007s but you have to grind off the top of the ball joint and push it out the bottom, there is a tool that when you push in the new ball joint the tool crimps the top to hold the ball joint in

crushNchowda Senior Enthusiast

crushNchowda

Posted
Posted

Moog is what I use. I don't use torque specs, unless it's on critical parts inside the differential or transmission, which at that point I'm not messing with it lol

The torque specs are there for a reason.,,right down to the swaybar endlinks and the lugnuts. You will find out how "critical" torque spec is for lugnuts if you start using the truck as a truck - towing and/or offroading. I've got a friend who damn near totaled his vette on a road course lost a rear wheel b/c the lugs were tightened using an impact wrench rather than being put to correct torque spec....

 

You can buy a torque wrench for like $40-$50 from harbor freight.

OP - you will also need a "pickle fork" - should be $20 or so, can even rent one from pretty much any auto parts store, but not a bad tool to have laying around. Better to use that vs. banging on your suspension w/ a hammer like a caveman (seriously). It actually isn't that difficult a job particularly on a big truck w/ plenty of space to work w/ underneath. I also recommend MOOG replacement parts, I've had good success w/ there stuff.

 

Lastly, - make sure the inner sleelve of the A-arm is cleaned out really well before installing new parts, & leaving the balljoints in your freezer for 24 hrs - right up until right before install - can make things go more easily. Personally I'd replace the upper ones too if you're going to tackle it yourself may as well.

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
Posted

The torque specs are there for a reason.,,right down to the swaybar endlinks and the lugnuts. You will find out how "critical" torque spec is for lugnuts if you start using the truck as a truck - towing and/or offroading. I've got a friend who damn near totaled his vette on a road course lost a rear wheel b/c the lugs were tightened using an impact wrench rather than being put to correct torque spec....

 

You can buy a torque wrench for like $40-$50 from harbor freight.

OP - you will also need a "pickle fork" - should be $20 or so, can even rent one from pretty much any auto parts store, but not a bad tool to have laying around. Better to use that vs. banging on your suspension w/ a hammer like a caveman (seriously). It actually isn't that difficult a job particularly on a big truck w/ plenty of space to work w/ underneath. I also recommend MOOG replacement parts, I've had good success w/ there stuff.

 

Lastly, - make sure the inner sleelve of the A-arm is cleaned out really well before installing new parts, & leaving the balljoints in your freezer for 24 hrs - right up until right before install - can make things go more easily. Personally I'd replace the upper ones too if you're going to tackle it yourself may as well.

I use my truck as a truck all the time, always have, even with the last truck I had. My impact gun is more than sufficient for me. I'm sure there is some advantage to torquing to spec, probably that they are easier to break loose lol. With my old impact gun I would use a 4 way to make sure they were tight enough, thing was junk. But I haven't had an issue in the 250k I've driven between all the vehicles I've rotated tires and such on
Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The torque specs are there for a reason.,,right down to the swaybar endlinks and the lugnuts. You will find out how "critical" torque spec is for lugnuts if you start using the truck as a truck - towing and/or offroading. I've got a friend who damn near totaled his vette on a road course lost a rear wheel b/c the lugs were tightened using an impact wrench rather than being put to correct torque spec....

 

You can buy a torque wrench for like $40-$50 from harbor freight.

OP - you will also need a "pickle fork" - should be $20 or so, can even rent one from pretty much any auto parts store, but not a bad tool to have laying around. Better to use that vs. banging on your suspension w/ a hammer like a caveman (seriously). It actually isn't that difficult a job particularly on a big truck w/ plenty of space to work w/ underneath. I also recommend MOOG replacement parts, I've had good success w/ there stuff.

 

Lastly, - make sure the inner sleelve of the A-arm is cleaned out really well before installing new parts, & leaving the balljoints in your freezer for 24 hrs - right up until right before install - can make things go more easily. Personally I'd replace the upper ones too if you're going to tackle it yourself may as well.

I am planning to switch the UCAs to the cognito arms since I am already tearing apart the suspension. Like I mentioned, shops seem to be quoting around $800+ for replacing just lowers. So if I do it all myself. I can replace both lowers and the UCAs all for less than what shops want just to do the lowers.

I've been watching as many videos as I can, despite none of them being our exact truck (might be a good opportunity for a DIY video lol) and have noted all tools used. Plan to rent them all from local auto store. Even if some go unused. Would hate to have to stop to run there.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
Posted

I am planning to switch the UCAs to the cognito arms since I am already tearing apart the suspension. Like I mentioned, shops seem to be quoting around $800+ for replacing just lowers. So if I do it all myself. I can replace both lowers and the UCAs all for less than what shops want just to do the lowers.

I've been watching as many videos as I can, despite none of them being our exact truck (might be a good opportunity for a DIY video lol) and have noted all tools used. Plan to rent them all from local auto store. Even if some go unused. Would hate to have to stop to run there.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bring your ass to VA and I'll get it done for you in a hour or so lol
crushNchowda Senior Enthusiast

crushNchowda

Posted
Posted

I am planning to switch the UCAs to the cognito arms since I am already tearing apart the suspension. Like I mentioned, shops seem to be quoting around $800+ for replacing just lowers. So if I do it all myself. I can replace both lowers and the UCAs all for less than what shops want just to do the lowers.

I've been watching as many videos as I can, despite none of them being our exact truck (might be a good opportunity for a DIY video lol) and have noted all tools used. Plan to rent them all from local auto store. Even if some go unused. Would hate to have to stop to run there.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you running a lift? If yes, then absolutely run the cognitos & replace w/ moog parts cuz I would wager that could be a big reason for premature wear/failure.....would the cognito upper arms alter the angle of the suspension to help compensate for the added height? Does cognito sell the replacement arm w/ upper ball joints & bushings already pressed in?

amxguy1970 Senior Enthusiast

amxguy1970

Posted
Posted

I had a passenger side lower fail under warranty. Call Chevy and ask them if they'll help you towards parts if your truck isn't too far out of warranty. It's worth a shot.

 

Stock, sure, leveled nope. That is one of the key failure points with a level. He is SOL, best chance is to upgrade to something that will handle the new angles.

 

Also Crush, I rarely use a torque wrench, not sure what that use a truck as a truck means as it has no impact on usage but if it makes you sleep and feel better more power to ya...

 

Tyler

scott.moody.9401 Enthusiast

scott.moody.9401

Posted
Posted

You will also need a spring compressor. Be very careful as those springs will have a lot of stored up energy when compressed. Use a chain as a safety messure to keep parts contained

 

 

Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...