Lower Ball Joint replacement

Mike1220 · October 25, 2016

hey all, so I did a search about replacing the lower ball joints on these trucks but didn't get anything at all. So figured I would start a new thread and hopefully I'm in the right place. I went to get an alignment the other day and was informed my lower ball joints are already shot. Mainly the passenger side, driver seemed fine but if I'm replacing 1 I might as well do the other. So I asked the shop how much it would cost and was quoted somewhere over $800. Long story short, did some research and the joint is shot. But ball joints only seem to cost $40-60 a piece but most shops seem to want to just replace the entire control arm for sake of time. So I'm going to tackle the job with a buddy of mine who has done some similar work to his 95 land cruiser. But being I'm no genious in the suspension world I was wondering if someone could tell me a good set of lower ball joints that I could go with! I am planning to also switch to Cognito UCAs since doing the ball joints myself seems to have saved quite a bit of money. If anyone could help me locate the ball joints I will need then I'll dance at your wedding!

also if anyone has any tips, tricks, or anything else they would like to add, it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance

- Mike

Mike1220 · October 25, 2016

also if someone could point me in the direction of all the torq specs needed to put everything back together it would be appreciated!

adamatic88 · October 25, 2016

Moog parts are my personal preference, they are a bit more expensive but they last so much longer. They even sell steering and suspension kits.

20L8TSierra24 · October 25, 2016

I had a passenger side lower fail under warranty. Call Chevy and ask them if they'll help you towards parts if your truck isn't too far out of warranty. It's worth a shot.

BuyAmericanIron · October 25, 2016

Try Rockauto.com. They have a new line that is advertised as being very high quality. Like adamatic, I have used Moog for many years.

LongrangeLauber · October 25, 2016

Moog is what I use. I don't use torque specs, unless it's on critical parts inside the differential or transmission, which at that point I'm not messing with it lol

silveradosid · October 25, 2016

dont know if the new trucks are the same as the 2007s but you have to grind off the top of the ball joint and push it out the bottom, there is a tool that when you push in the new ball joint the tool crimps the top to hold the ball joint in

Knotsure · October 25, 2016

+1-Moog

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

crushNchowda · October 25, 2016

Moog is what I use. I don't use torque specs, unless it's on critical parts inside the differential or transmission, which at that point I'm not messing with it lol

The torque specs are there for a reason.,,right down to the swaybar endlinks and the lugnuts. You will find out how "critical" torque spec is for lugnuts if you start using the truck as a truck - towing and/or offroading. I've got a friend who damn near totaled his vette on a road course lost a rear wheel b/c the lugs were tightened using an impact wrench rather than being put to correct torque spec....

You can buy a torque wrench for like $40-$50 from harbor freight.

OP - you will also need a "pickle fork" - should be $20 or so, can even rent one from pretty much any auto parts store, but not a bad tool to have laying around. Better to use that vs. banging on your suspension w/ a hammer like a caveman (seriously). It actually isn't that difficult a job particularly on a big truck w/ plenty of space to work w/ underneath. I also recommend MOOG replacement parts, I've had good success w/ there stuff.

Lastly, - make sure the inner sleelve of the A-arm is cleaned out really well before installing new parts, & leaving the balljoints in your freezer for 24 hrs - right up until right before install - can make things go more easily. Personally I'd replace the upper ones too if you're going to tackle it yourself may as well.

LongrangeLauber · October 25, 2016

The torque specs are there for a reason.,,right down to the swaybar endlinks and the lugnuts. You will find out how "critical" torque spec is for lugnuts if you start using the truck as a truck - towing and/or offroading. I've got a friend who damn near totaled his vette on a road course lost a rear wheel b/c the lugs were tightened using an impact wrench rather than being put to correct torque spec....

You can buy a torque wrench for like $40-$50 from harbor freight.

OP - you will also need a "pickle fork" - should be $20 or so, can even rent one from pretty much any auto parts store, but not a bad tool to have laying around. Better to use that vs. banging on your suspension w/ a hammer like a caveman (seriously). It actually isn't that difficult a job particularly on a big truck w/ plenty of space to work w/ underneath. I also recommend MOOG replacement parts, I've had good success w/ there stuff.

Lastly, - make sure the inner sleelve of the A-arm is cleaned out really well before installing new parts, & leaving the balljoints in your freezer for 24 hrs - right up until right before install - can make things go more easily. Personally I'd replace the upper ones too if you're going to tackle it yourself may as well.

I use my truck as a truck all the time, always have, even with the last truck I had. My impact gun is more than sufficient for me. I'm sure there is some advantage to torquing to spec, probably that they are easier to break loose lol. With my old impact gun I would use a 4 way to make sure they were tight enough, thing was junk. But I haven't had an issue in the 250k I've driven between all the vehicles I've rotated tires and such on

Mike1220 · October 25, 2016

The torque specs are there for a reason.,,right down to the swaybar endlinks and the lugnuts. You will find out how "critical" torque spec is for lugnuts if you start using the truck as a truck - towing and/or offroading. I've got a friend who damn near totaled his vette on a road course lost a rear wheel b/c the lugs were tightened using an impact wrench rather than being put to correct torque spec....

You can buy a torque wrench for like $40-$50 from harbor freight.

OP - you will also need a "pickle fork" - should be $20 or so, can even rent one from pretty much any auto parts store, but not a bad tool to have laying around. Better to use that vs. banging on your suspension w/ a hammer like a caveman (seriously). It actually isn't that difficult a job particularly on a big truck w/ plenty of space to work w/ underneath. I also recommend MOOG replacement parts, I've had good success w/ there stuff.

Lastly, - make sure the inner sleelve of the A-arm is cleaned out really well before installing new parts, & leaving the balljoints in your freezer for 24 hrs - right up until right before install - can make things go more easily. Personally I'd replace the upper ones too if you're going to tackle it yourself may as well.

I am planning to switch the UCAs to the cognito arms since I am already tearing apart the suspension. Like I mentioned, shops seem to be quoting around $800+ for replacing just lowers. So if I do it all myself. I can replace both lowers and the UCAs all for less than what shops want just to do the lowers.

I've been watching as many videos as I can, despite none of them being our exact truck (might be a good opportunity for a DIY video lol) and have noted all tools used. Plan to rent them all from local auto store. Even if some go unused. Would hate to have to stop to run there.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

LongrangeLauber · October 25, 2016

I am planning to switch the UCAs to the cognito arms since I am already tearing apart the suspension. Like I mentioned, shops seem to be quoting around $800+ for replacing just lowers. So if I do it all myself. I can replace both lowers and the UCAs all for less than what shops want just to do the lowers.

I've been watching as many videos as I can, despite none of them being our exact truck (might be a good opportunity for a DIY video lol) and have noted all tools used. Plan to rent them all from local auto store. Even if some go unused. Would hate to have to stop to run there.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bring your ass to VA and I'll get it done for you in a hour or so lol

crushNchowda · October 25, 2016

I am planning to switch the UCAs to the cognito arms since I am already tearing apart the suspension. Like I mentioned, shops seem to be quoting around $800+ for replacing just lowers. So if I do it all myself. I can replace both lowers and the UCAs all for less than what shops want just to do the lowers.

I've been watching as many videos as I can, despite none of them being our exact truck (might be a good opportunity for a DIY video lol) and have noted all tools used. Plan to rent them all from local auto store. Even if some go unused. Would hate to have to stop to run there.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you running a lift? If yes, then absolutely run the cognitos & replace w/ moog parts cuz I would wager that could be a big reason for premature wear/failure.....would the cognito upper arms alter the angle of the suspension to help compensate for the added height? Does cognito sell the replacement arm w/ upper ball joints & bushings already pressed in?

amxguy1970 · October 25, 2016

I had a passenger side lower fail under warranty. Call Chevy and ask them if they'll help you towards parts if your truck isn't too far out of warranty. It's worth a shot.

Stock, sure, leveled nope. That is one of the key failure points with a level. He is SOL, best chance is to upgrade to something that will handle the new angles.

Also Crush, I rarely use a torque wrench, not sure what that use a truck as a truck means as it has no impact on usage but if it makes you sleep and feel better more power to ya...

Tyler

scott.moody.9401 · October 25, 2016

You will also need a spring compressor. Be very careful as those springs will have a lot of stored up energy when compressed. Use a chain as a safety messure to keep parts contained

Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk