Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Most steering rack or box problems occur due to the leveling or lift kits.

Often associated with popping noises after mods.

Posted
37 minutes ago, Sierra Dan said:

Most steering rack or box problems occur due to the leveling or lift kits.

Often associated with popping noises after mods.

Mine was a full failure of the EPS box. Happened while parked during a very nasty electrical storm in N.C. In fact there were multiple lightning strikes within a 30yrd radius. I walked out to the truck after a concert and it was dead.

Posted

I’d like to know if the 2019 model still uses the mechanical pump. Or if they went with electrical

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Had the same issue while returning from out of town. Was going 75mph and had to start slowing down for a red light ahead. When I pressed the brakes, the pedal was stiff and there was no slowing response until I had to use both feet. I was able to pull over and get the vehicle to a stop, but it was a very sudden and scary moment. After shutting off the vehicle and restarting it, my brakes returned and I slowly made my way home the remainding 2 miles. However, when I started to brake to stop the vehicle before putting it into reverse to back into the garage, the brakes went stiff again and I managed to stop just a few feet from the wall. Had it towed to the Chevy dealership and was told it was a bad Vacuum pump. Now I'm out $700+. Picking up the truck from the dealership today and will post again if something happens. Truck is a 2015 Silverado 1500 LTZ-Z71 2WD with 63,000 miles. I think this a major safety concern. 

 

 

Posted (edited)
On 2/2/2018 at 2:48 PM, Consumer Advocates said:

Still under warranty? Did GM refuse to pay for the vacuum pump repair?

Just got my vacuum pump replaced today. $730. 2015 Silverado 1500 LTZ-Z71 2WD with 63,000 miles. I figured it would fall under powertrain warranty, but I guess not. Any idea on if it's possible to have the dealership pay for it? Also, they only replaced the Vacuum pump and belt. Shouldn't they have replaced more due to the service bulletin? Side note - Should I go ahead and change the oil in the truck? I read previously that the vacuum pump could cause metal in the oil? 

Edited by Jimenez44
Posted (edited)

Just got my truck today from body shop for hail damage repair and lost brakes at Low speeds at my work parking lot.  Under warranty so gm towed it but still sucks to now be without again as the body shop had it 3 weeks. 

Edited by squeak93
Posted
Just got my vacuum pump replaced today. $730. 2015 Silverado 1500 LTZ-Z71 2WD with 63,000 miles. I figured it would fall under powertrain warranty, but I guess not. Any idea on if it's possible to have the dealership pay for it? Also, they only replaced the Vacuum pump and belt. Shouldn't they have replaced more due to the service bulletin? Side note - Should I go ahead and change the oil in the truck? I read previously that the vacuum pump could cause metal in the oil? 

That depends if oil was found in your vacuum line. If it was then the recommendation is to replace the additional parts of the braking system. If no oil was found in the line and they don’t suspect oil made it into the booster then there’s no reason to replace those parts.

 

Regarding metal in the oil, again, if the failure didn’t result in metal shavings being released, then there is no reason to change the oil. Give the dealership a call and ask if they specifically checked for such a possibility and what part of the vacuum pump failed.

 

There certainly are benefits to the dealer performing the repairs, however, if you are handy and are looking to save some cash, a brand new AC Delco mechanical vacuum pump for the L83/L86 can be purchased on Amazon for $130 and comes with a 1 year warranty.

 

Likewise, if you don’t want to chance it with another mechanical pump, you can purchase an aftermarket electric pump for about $250-$350 which has all of the valves and switches pre-installed so all you have to do is connect the vacuum line to your booster and connect two wires to a fused power feed. Automatically turns on when vacuum is at or less than 15inHg and auto shuts off at 20inHg. I’m going this route and parts will be here next week.

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Posted
Let us know how it works out. I've heard that the aftermarket vacuum pumps can be a little loud, but who knows...

Expensive but quiet, go to 1:36 in the video. https://www.mpbrakes.com/accessories/silent-drive-vacuum-pump-ac9001k.aspLess expensive and quiet, go to 2:02 in the video. https://leedbrakes.com/c-1183501-vacuum-pumps-parts.htmlThis is the same one I bought except in black. Go to 1:05 in the video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=94ajut6OEek I believe these are all rotary vane pumps which greatly decreases how loud they are compared to diaphragm/piston style pumps. I’ll be sure to post my install and results.
Posted

Got my truck back in less than a day. Gm dealer actually fixed it on a sat. Woot woot. 

 

Replaced the pump, booster, master cylinder, and lines. All according to the tsb. Truck stops now which is kind of important. 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 minutes ago, squeak93 said:

Got my truck back in less than a day. Gm dealer actually fixed it on a sat. Woot woot. 

 

Replaced the pump, booster, master cylinder, and lines. All according to the tsb. Truck stops now which is kind of important. 

What did the cost run you?

Posted
Just now, Jimenez44 said:

What did the cost run you?

Warranty. Only at 32500 miles. Gm towed it and all which was nice  since it had no brakes lol. 

Posted
5 minutes ago, squeak93 said:

Warranty. Only at 32500 miles. Gm towed it and all which was nice  since it had no brakes lol. 

Nice. Do you know what warranty it falls under? Bumper to bumper I assume?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,913
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Smitty462
    Newest Member
    Smitty462
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 698 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...