Jump to content

Underseat Storage

BoatDriver

By BoatDriver
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

BoatDriver Enthusiast

BoatDriver

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys, I'm awaiting delivery of my 2017 2500HD crew cab and looking for a viable underseat rear storage container. All the containers I've looked at require lifting the rear bench to access.

 

Unfortunately, I have the car seats for my 2 and 4 year-olds in the back, lifting the seat with them in place is impossible, and removing them is a PITA. Does anyone know of any other viable options? Otherwise, for those who have one, is there an easy way to secure it in such a way that it'll mostly stay put unless I pull it out from under the seat to access it?

 

Thanks,

Boats

SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted

I haven't seen an underseat storage that pulls out like a drawer like you'll need. Sounds like something that will need to be custom made. Maybe you should consider something for the bed instead. There's plenty of options for bed storage, not just toolboxes.

smrr1 Senior Enthusiast

smrr1

Posted
Posted

Well i thought my situation sucked, yours is worse. I have one car seat in the back and put it on the passenger side as that is the smaller seat and i use the gm underseat storage. That allows me to access most of it. The problem comes when i am in the garage. I park with my passenger side againts the wall and have to pull out to load my daughter or unload her before pulling in the garage. I'd love to have her on the driver side but then the storage is about useless.

bndawgs Senior Enthusiast

bndawgs

Posted
Posted

Well i thought my situation sucked, yours is worse. I have one car seat in the back and put it on the passenger side as that is the smaller seat and i use the gm underseat storage. That allows me to access most of it. The problem comes when i am in the garage. I park with my passenger side againts the wall and have to pull out to load my daughter or unload her before pulling in the garage. I'd love to have her on the driver side but then the storage is about useless.

well, you could have 3 car seats in the back like i do. :nonod:

Ridersfan Enthusiast

Ridersfan

Posted
Posted

So what's the real question? A better underseat storage OR a better form of birth control? Haha just kidding ya.

I have only seen homebuilt wooden underseat storage that does anything less than make you flip the seat up.

smrr1 Senior Enthusiast

smrr1

Posted
Posted

well, you could have 3 car seats in the back like i do. :nonod:

I am feeling sick just reading this, and very very poor!
bndawgs Senior Enthusiast

bndawgs

Posted
Posted

Lol, yeah. Someday i'll be able to lift my seats up and actually get to the storage area underneath.

bndawgs Senior Enthusiast

bndawgs

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys, I'm awaiting delivery of my 2017 2500HD crew cab and looking for a viable underseat rear storage container. All the containers I've looked at require lifting the rear bench to access.

 

Unfortunately, I have the car seats for my 2 and 4 year-olds in the back, lifting the seat with them in place is impossible, and removing them is a PITA. Does anyone know of any other viable options? Otherwise, for those who have one, is there an easy way to secure it in such a way that it'll mostly stay put unless I pull it out from under the seat to access it?

 

Thanks,

Boats

If you have a floor liner in the back all the way under the seat, i would think one of those underseat storage options would say put for the most part and you could just pull it out if you needed something. Could also maybe put some of that drawer liner stuff underneath to give it a little bit of grip?

 

at some point, i'm going to look into building a box out of wood.

SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted

Another reason I'm glad I haven't had kids yet at 31. If I did have any I wouldn't turn away, but I'm just fine to not have kids. I'm the type that can be good with kids but I want to give them back to their parents. So I'm the Uncle I guess lol.

 

I also just thought that you could get an underseat storage and just not mount it so it can pull out. It wouldn't as easy as a custom drawer type storage, especially if you have a good amount of weight. The only problem would be to secure it while it's under the seat. I have the GM one and it only mounts to 2 seat bolts.

BoatDriver Enthusiast

BoatDriver

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That was my second thought. Put some industrial velcro on the bottom, or maybe re-route the straps around the front so that they can be released without lifting the seat.

 

It doesn't need to carry anything heavy, that's what the boxes in the bed are for. Just my trauma bag, a bug out bag, some outdoor emergency supplies, etc.

bndawgs Senior Enthusiast

bndawgs

Posted
Posted

That was my second thought. Put some industrial velcro on the bottom, or maybe re-route the straps around the front so that they can be released without lifting the seat.

 

It doesn't need to carry anything heavy, that's what the boxes in the bed are for. Just my trauma bag, a bug out bag, some outdoor emergency supplies, etc.

My guess is that it wouldn't slide out under normal driving conditions. If you went with the velcro straps, perhaps you could put them on the side of the box that faces the back of the cab. Then just slide it in and attach the velcro.

1300c Enthusiast

1300c

Posted
Posted

I had the same problem. I looked into custom building a storage unit that would slide out that was covered in leather, with rails and everything. Then my wife walked out of the department store one day with two black plastic underseat storage bins that cost I think $18 a piece. Now I have storage that's easy to get to without removing a car seat. She's driving my truck today so when we get home I'll post the brand. It's not a full width solution but it works really well.

  • 1 month later...
fluxcapacitor11 Enthusiast

fluxcapacitor11

Posted
Posted

I had the same problem. I looked into custom building a storage unit that would slide out that was covered in leather, with rails and everything. Then my wife walked out of the department store one day with two black plastic underseat storage bins that cost I think $18 a piece. Now I have storage that's easy to get to without removing a car seat. She's driving my truck today so when we get home I'll post the brand. It's not a full width solution but it works really well.

Did you ever get pics of this? I'm in the same boat, car seats not allowing access. I wouldn't mind getting one of those lock boxes if they made one that only went 60% across the back. I still want a sub under the other 40%. I want to carry a whole bunch of stuff-and not have to look at it!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1300c Enthusiast

1300c

Posted
Posted

Did you ever get pics of this? I'm in the same boat, car seats not allowing access. I wouldn't mind getting one of those lock boxes if they made one that only went 60% across the back. I still want a sub under the other 40%. I want to carry a whole bunch of stuff-and not have to look at it!

 

I'll take a pic today. Now if I'm smart enough to load it on here from my phone is another story lol. That are open plastic bins that don't lock, but work well.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • wassupdoc
      Wiper Blade Replacements

      By wassupdoc · Posted

      sorry to bump an old thread, im a bit clueless with this stuff, would these fit a 2019+ Silverado? https://wiperpro.com.au/products/chevrolet-silverado-wiper-blades mainly wondering if the beam shape stays planted at highway speed, thats what seems to let the factory ones down imo
    • mysery1
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By mysery1 · Posted

      I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • FiLo
      5.3 / 6.2 valve covers / oil burning

      By FiLo · Posted

      Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...