Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I've spent a couple of days searching Google and the forums looking for tsbs and complaints, so excuse me in advance if this is a well known issue. I've had my '17 2500HD CCSB 4X4 6.0 for six days and 230 miles now, and the braking is lame compared to my other vehicles. Out of curiosity, I gave the brake pedal a couple of pumps and the brake feel improved. Last year I had a '95 K3500 DRW 454 12' stake, replaced with 01 K2500HD RC 6.0 this year. So I'm familiar with what Hydro boost should feel like. I have not driven a gmt900 truck with Hydro boost, but I'm sure some of you have, and can weigh in.

 

#1 Has GM lowered the assist pressure to increase the operator input on the pedal?

 

#2 With an improvement in feel after a couple of pumps, there is likely some air bubbles in the system. How could I get a service advisor to bleed the brakes if no stored trouble codes are present?

 

#3. Should I just be content with my biggest, best, most expensive vehicle out of 4 giving me a lame brake pedal feel?

Posted

Just throwing this out there - I took my new 2016 out and decided to do a couple of panic stops, just to see how it did in the snow. Get a sense of how it handled when no one else was around. Anyway, the first time I did it, the truck stalled! I couldn't believe it. I did a few more and it didn't happen again. My guess is maybe my first panic stop was the first time the calipers were fully extended and now if you look in the reservoir I bet the level is just a smidge lower than it was when I first got it. But, it all seems fine now.

Posted

Sounds like they need to be looked at.

Yeah, I was afraid of that. I already know that the selling dealer's service dept will try to evade a thorough look by the standard "functions as designed" or "no codes, can't fix what ain't broke". It's probably worth it to me to take it to some "diesel brother" type shop that is well experienced with this set up.

 

I did put about 100 miles on the '01 today, feels like a race car compared to the '17...

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Now at 1250 miles with lame brakes still. The truck sat at the dealer from Monday afternoon through Friday afternoon to address my brake concerns. The service writer didn't know much about hydraulic brakes, so she drug me back to the bay where the "work" was performed. She introduced me to the man who did the work, then carefully watched over our conversation. The main tone of our conversation was a lot of deflection and marginalization of my brake problem. The tech removed the tires, and, in his words, "ran three things though it, no way there is air now". According to the paperwork it was .7 hr labor to bleed the brakes, and two quarts of fluid. They did not road test it, and told me the brakes are OK. After driving around the block, there is no change from when I dropped it off. So I went back and asked for a new master cylinder, if there truly is no air in the system, right? They told me that they would not install one if the truck is "ok". I told them that I would not put up with the lame brakes for the next 35/34,750. I asked, Can you give me a discount on a master cylinder that I can take home and put on myself? She replied, Nope, no discounts at the parts counter. So, I left. It looks like 171 retail and 93 rock auto, so I'll just order it in and put it on the truck next weekend.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Posted

Must be an issue with your truck. My new 16 stops incredibly well. Will put you through the window if needed. For sure an improvement from My 2001 HD with hydroboost.

Maybe your brake pads didnt seat or break in properly.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

So,

 

I was fortunate enough to test drive a real world 16 DCSB 6.0 WT 4X4 with 15k mi. today. And guess what? Nice, responsive, hydro boosted pedal feel. Hopped back in my truck... lameo! Dropping it off at hopefully a better dealer in the morning.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Take it somewhere else. Brakes should be fixable. Its not normal my brakes are smooth as silk stop nicely.

Posted

2nd dealer is putting on a master cylinder. I'm excited to see if this does the trick.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Posted

Got my truck back today. No charge, no work order, lame brakes. This time the pedal is more firm, but has less power assisted feel. When I pump the pedal, something feels loose. Almost like the actuator from the hydroboost unit is too short and not staying with the master cylinder piston. Now I need the truck to haul a couple of loads with my gooseneck trailer. So I won't be able to give it back to service until next week.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Went to pick up my truck today. $715 for a new hydrobooster later, and there is a wonderful hiss coming from the steering column at idle. It goes away if you rev the motor or steer. The hiss doesn't change until there is 60-100 lbs force applied to the brake pedal, forcing the pump into pressure relief. So, I left out of there in another 1500. By now I will have been in a loaner longer than my own new truck. I still have the new truck payment though...

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Picked my truck up Thursday, no charge this time. This time the brakes work like a new truck! I'm happy with the end result, but quite miffed about the whole process. I think I might try to forward the repair bill up a level.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Picked my truck up Thursday, no charge this time. This time the brakes work like a new truck! I'm happy with the end result, but quite miffed about the whole process. I think I might try to forward the repair bill up a level.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

What did they do to get it all fixed? And there shouldnt be a repair bill?? Do you not still have warranty?

Posted

What did they do to get it all fixed? And there shouldnt be a repair bill?? Do you not still have warranty?

I didn't even look at the last service record, but the highlights are:

1: Bleed brake system, warranty

2: Replace master cylinder, warranty

3: Check brake pads, OK., warranty

4: Replace hydroboost unit, customer pay

5: Replace hydroboost unit again, warranty

 

Each step, one week in the service bay. 2017 Silveraydo with 34.7 month/34.7k mile bumper to bumper warranty remaining. The GM warranty system is a joke. If there is not a TSB for your complaint, then you have to beg them, and pay them to fix it.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hey guys, sorry for the confusison about this. This wasn't my experainnce, it was copied and pasted fom the net. 
    • The problem with failure rates or increase failures are there’s people who don’t have a problem. What are you doing wrong they say. We had 4 5.7 GM diesel’s in the family when they came out. One was flawless. My uncle who happened to be the most abusive. Early rotary engines were known to use oil. I abused my first car so bad in six months I replaced the clutch, transmission and rear end. It didn’t use oil. My brother in law has a 2013 Tahoe and an older Yukon. The Yukon has 280K miles. The Tahoe around 175K. He runs them to about 300K. If his lifters fail before that time he would consider it a failure. My Hondas, I know people hate it when I mention them. Identical engines. One with cylinder deactivation one doesn’t have it. One shudders when the eco light goes on or off. Cylinder deactivation. But wait! According to the web. It can happen with lock up too. So now people in the know are changing the oil and transmission fluid more often. Then you read it could be a programing issue. So what do you do? There’s lots of money involved. I see three ways to deal with it. One only works if you don’t drive lots of miles. Lease, never get out of warranty. Or only buy older vehicles with a good track record. They all have bad runs. Usually when there’s a change. Even Toyota and Honda. 
    • Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...