Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

My 16 has not been updated. But here's how the OEM config works: During the day, the adjustment knob does nothing. But when it's dark enough for the sensor to automatically turn on the lights, the knob (wheel) will adjust the camera screen brightness accooordingly

 

Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

My 16 has not been updated. But here's how the OEM config works: During the day, the adjustment knob does nothing. But when it's dark enough for the sensor to automatically turn on the lights, the knob (wheel) will adjust the camera screen brightness accooordingly

 

 

The issue applies only to the 2017s.

Edited by jrhoyt84
Posted

Had mine done Wednesday. It still brightens a bit but only like 5-10% of what it used to. In my opinion, problem solved. Now all I gotta do is replace these 18" wheels with a set of 20's

Posted

I had a service done yesterday and I forgot to mention the tsb for the camera brightness! I had it written down too!! Damn!! I get it next time.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Yes I have noticed the backup camera having a washed out picture at night and it is pretty annoying. This software update is on my list for the next free oil change visit to the dealership. I had a 16 and it was not like this at all. Thanks for posting the info.

I saw this TSB number in another thread #17-na-269

They will update the a22 radio controller with the latest software available

Realeased Aug 22

Edited by MyFavTruck
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Had the update done today. They could’ve done better, but it’s an improvement. Wish they had done like my 2014 where it dimmed with the dash lights.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

 

Could you put a small piece of window tint film cut to fit the camera lens in the tailgate? That would certainly dim the view I would think and it’s removable.

Posted

Could you put a small piece of window tint film cut to fit the camera lens in the tailgate? That would certainly dim the view I would think and it’s removable.

The problem is the display inside the truck, it has a software error/glitch that runs the display brightness to full at night when the backup camera is enabled. Placing anything over the rear camera would only diminish the view during the daytime and not solve the problem at night as the display would still be run to full brightness... Why "hack" a repair/fix when a working solution is only a GM dealer visit away?

Posted

I had mine done this past weekend. Works perfect now.

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

What is the TBS code they used?

Posted

Very glad I found this thread, I actually covered my back up camera up with some tape because it completely blinded me at night. I just called the dealership after seeing this thread. Service guy wasn't aware of any issue but immediately after I told him it was a known issue he found it in the computer system and there is a software update to fix it.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Just went outside (nighttime) to test my 2016 Silverado because this has been a huge annoyance to my husband. The backup screen dimmed considerably when I dimmed the dash lights.   Hope this helps others.

Posted

Software update helped, but still a low-quality picture with two "rings" behind the backup lights.  It was about a 45 minute appointment at the dealer.  Like another post said, I also have 20% 3m tint on my side windows and need to roll them down to see the mirrors more clearly when reversing at night, depending on the situation.  As a side note, I haven't found the "auto tilt" mode helpful, and have mine selected to normal.  

 

20171209_100433.thumb.jpg.7f572a360639a3219fd28b64ef22455f.jpg

 

 

Posted

I just had mine done last week, makes a big difference at night being able to see side mirrors. the TSB- 17-NA-269 worked perfectly. it took about an hour for the dealer to push the update 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I know; crap pictures.   Anyway, as a finale of sorts to this thread, I had replaced both differential covers and since they had the capability of adding temperature probes, I did that. These are MaxTow analog/digital gauges with stepper motors. They'll flutter around like crazy for a moment and start at a nominal 100 degrees Fahrenheit.   I drove a 30-mile loop to the grocery store, averaging 70 MPH (as much as 80 to see if there was a quick spike in temperature. The air temperature is 102 (ambient ?). but the first pic is 7 miles into the trip. The second is getting back into the truck after leaving the store; differential temperatures dropped about three to four degrees in 15 minutes. The third pic in on the road to my house, about a mile away.   In that run, I saw a high of 150F on the rear differential, and 121F on the front. I'm sure a longer drive or towing will see higher than that, and when that happens, I can update the observations. 
    • You don't want to become predictable now, do you? 😏
    • Fully warm, coolant temp >194, closed loop.   Run time can be anywhere from just reached operating temperature to having driven 30+ miles.   The O2 chart (which is a feature I just discovered after reading) for the bad idle seems to be "most" of the time. For the little time I've been watching it (scanning and driving! watchout!) I can't seem to isolate any cause or condition yet.   It definitely idles rougher sometimes than others and so far what I've seen is the rougher idles are always rich. But not enough to set a CEL.   In other news I replaced the starter solenoid. Everything on this truck is such a PITA. Starter "snout" is mangled up with the torque converter inspection cover which is tangled up with hard cooling lines and the driveshaft. But I got 'er done without too much swearing...I just go into everything now knowing it's going to be a frustrating mess.   The starter solenoid replacement kicks off the next round of work: AC, injector rebuild, cat, exhaust. I'm just going to do it all. But first:   I don't know what my fuel pressures are. I can't definitively say the issue is the injector without first verifying fuel pressures and any leakdown. I "rented" a test kit ($199.99 at O'Really's ...intentional misspelling). They don't "rent" tools anymore, they charge you for the tool and then you return it when you're done. No joke. It is listed as a rental on the receipt but the guy told me there's no difference between renting and buying  now, you just return it when you're done and they refund the credit card. Mmmkay, whatever.   I will rule out fuel pressure issues (too much), and any leaking (that's how I'll know the problem is inside the intake). I think someone said the return line could be plugged or not flowing and that could cause high fuel pressure (and too much fuel being pushed through injectors). I'll cross that bridge if I get high readings.   As of now I'm ready to tear off the intake cover, extract the injector, and have it sent off to be rebuilt just so I can rule that out.
    • What are the conditions of this rich idle? Warm or cold engine? Run time? Does every idle look like this or only sometimes?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...