Jump to content

Codes


RP53

Recommended Posts

Posted

don't know where to start, my truck is Chevy Certified" so this should be warranty work. took the truck in because the driver side rear brake was hanging, next thing I know dealer said couldn't replicate, but found a "bulletin for a transmission grinding and they had dropped the transmission pan and checked it out. I though great new transmission fluid for free. but they didn't find anything wrong with the brakes. when I went to pick up the had a tec ride with me for the brake issue I described. made the noise like I had described. he said "it know what that is and we can fix it" it was late in the day and we were going camping so they said it is OK to drive so just drop it Monday AM and we will do the repairs.

well went to campground truck ran fine, I had forgotten something so got in to go to store, Truck wouldn't even turn over, and all kind of codes started popping on the display, Stablink, anit lock braking, transmission issue, power steering limited, and there were more. also the check engine light came on. had to have the truck towed back to dealer, and have father inlaw take the camper home. has anyone else ever had an issue like this ? do you guys think they screwed up my Trans when the "checked it out"

  • Replies 38
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

new developments, talked with the service guys this morning, they told me there were 6 pages of codes they are trying to work through, I know nothing about this stuff is 6 pages a lot ???

Posted

I don't see how checking the transmission would cause the truck not to turn over. It sounds to me like a electrical ground issue by throwing the codes. Hopefully they will get you fixed up fast.

Posted

I would like to hope they wouldn't screw it up but who knows. And yeah I hope they get it fixed fast, thanks for the reply

Posted

Tell them to check the G218 ground. There is a procedure for this where the ground had some rubber matting stuck between it and wasn't getting good ground. It can cause the BCM to get "confused" and throw all kinds of codes. You can search these forums for it.

Posted

well got the truck back its running fine right now they had 6 pages of code to work through, apparently all were related to low voltage, strange thing is my battery wasn't low had a full charge, it scary part is the said they really don't know why this happened, and it is possible but not likely it could happen again.

Posted

well got the truck back its running fine right now they had 6 pages of code to work through, apparently all were related to low voltage, strange thing is my battery wasn't low had a full charge, it scary part is the said they really don't know why this happened, and it is possible but not likely it could happen again.

 

Unfortunately it WILL happen again. What they are saying is true. The battery can have a good charge but something causes the voltage to drop below 12V (usually closer to 9V). When this happens the BCM gets confused and starts throwing pages and pages of codes. The only fix is to find the short, arc, or bad ground that is causing the voltage drop. Here is some info on a couple trouble spots:

 

http://gm.oemdtc.com/3194/reduced-power-steering-assist-engine-stall-ipc-radio-hvac-goes-blank-various-dtcs-2014-2016-cadillac-chevrolet-gmc

Posted

thanks of that info, can you tell me where the G218 connection as maybe i can look at it myself. you explaining a drop in voltage makes me wonder if i caused it myself. as i had said we were camping and i may (can't remember) have raised my Travel trailer using the electric jack with the engine on the truck turned off while still hooked to the camper, i do know the jack draws a lot of power. do you think that could have happened

Posted

I don't think drawing down the battery will set off the codes you describe. I tow our truck behind a RV and I have killed or close to killed the battery a couple of times until I put a good charge wire in it and never had any codes..

Posted

thanks of that info, can you tell me where the G218 connection as maybe i can look at it myself. you explaining a drop in voltage makes me wonder if i caused it myself. as i had said we were camping and i may (can't remember) have raised my Travel trailer using the electric jack with the engine on the truck turned off while still hooked to the camper, i do know the jack draws a lot of power. do you think that could have happened

 

Probably not. Like Garykk said it's not the charge in the battery. It has to do with a short or bad ground making the system lose voltage somewhere between the battery and BCM.

 

Look at the link I posted. The G218 ground is way up in the front left corner of the dash. You need to remove the pillar trim, then the front cover of the dash near the windshield, then usually the front dash speaker. Then when you look down in the far front corner you can see the ground stud they are talking about. There is a similar one on the passenger side that doesn't seem to be a problem but you might as well check it while you have everything torn apart.

Posted

thanks of that info, can you tell me where the G218 connection as maybe i can look at it myself. you explaining a drop in voltage makes me wonder if i caused it myself. as i had said we were camping and i may (can't remember) have raised my Travel trailer using the electric jack with the engine on the truck turned off while still hooked to the camper, i do know the jack draws a lot of power. do you think that could have happened

Here is where it is located number #1 on image

 

post-129865-0-86541600-1493751461_thumb.png

post-129865-0-87301400-1493751483_thumb.png

post-129865-0-86541600-1493751461_thumb.png

post-129865-0-87301400-1493751483_thumb.png

post-129865-0-86541600-1493751461_thumb.png

post-129865-0-87301400-1493751483_thumb.png

post-129865-0-86541600-1493751461_thumb.png

post-129865-0-87301400-1493751483_thumb.png

Posted

Thanks looks like it will be a bear to get to

Posted

The codes set, are a result of low operating voltage, not a low voltage source from battery!

This problem is equivalent to having a underrated or loose negative ground wire to draw from.

This will happen again, and can cause a fire as well....have them recheck that ground nut connection.

 

Best of luck

Posted

The codes set, are a result of low operating voltage, not a low voltage source from battery!

This problem is equivalent to having a underrated or loose negative ground wire to draw from.

This will happen again, and can cause a fire as well....have them recheck that ground nut connection.

 

Best of luck

amazing, showed the dealer the info you gave me concerning my problems they told me that they could check the 3 points you mentioned, However if they turned out not to be the issue warranty wouldn't cover the labor cost and i sill wouldn't know what the problem was

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes they are a good addition to make the truck more visible.   I have the OE ones in the lower front corners. I added some amber fogs to the bumper from Diode Dynamics SS6 model and wired them to my upfitter switches.   
    • I had an issue with a new 1985 Z-28 some years ago. The 4WDB's were less than adequate when purchased IMO.  I had taken it in for small warranty services and asked them on three occasions to check them. Each time is was "could not duplicate on the service ticket. The warranty ran out about a month after my last visit and had to take it back for warranty rework. I again complained about the brakes. Well, low and behold, this time they determined the rear calipers were sticking and gave me a quote to repair. They had records as well as O had receipts of each time complained about the brakes while still under warranty. My dad was a life long body shop owner and told me to keep my cool and tell them that I wanted to speak to the GM Regional District Manager. The service manager disappeared for a few minutes, came back and told me they would replace the calipers free of charge. 
    • Towing a 2022 Lance 24 ft travel trailer with our 2021 GMC Sierra 2500HD, gas.  Loaded, trailer is about 6,000 lb.  We get up to 10 mpg at 55 mpg, such as I-5.  Pleased with the combination.
    • I decided to give it a shot and see what sort of a gong show it would be to a pan drop themed oil change on my 2025 gas truck with the 10 speed. All indications I had seen so far was that there was no way that pan was coming out of there due to the cross over exhaust pipe not allowing enough clearance for the back end of the pan to duck out from under the valve body since it hangs lower than the pan to trans mount flange and certainly the filter does. I never touched any of the exhaust mount hardware at all, be that the engine manifolds to Y pipe, the bracket on the side of the transmission, or the two bolt flange further back behind the trans/transfer case. I put the truck up on four jack stands as there was no way I was going to struggle with that lack of clearance under the truck. The truck was cold as it had sat over night so all the trans fluid had drained to the pan, so I drained the bit of oil that would come out of the level check plug at the bottom near the front of the pan and put the plug back in to reduce the ensuing mess after that. Then took out all but one bolt front and rear and then pushed up on the pan and took out the remaining two bolts and then let the front of the pan tilt and spill out most of its contents into a drain pan. I then popped the pan gasket off its two locating nubs and kicked it a bit to the left side so it was no longer on the flange of the pan to get all the clearance I could and managed to get the pan slipped out of there by swinging the front of the pan to the right but keeping the rear part of the pan inline if not slightly to the left of its mounting flange area and lifting the front of the pan enough to keep the rear part of the pan low enough that allowed the pan to "JUST" slip out without forcing anything. I installed a new trans filter and seal and as per GM instructions on this site I torqued the two bolts to that 44 inch pound goal ( they take an 8 mm socket ) In reversing the pan procedure after I had cleaned up the pan both inside and out completely ( touching the outside of a dirty pan and dealing with installing a gasket at the same time would be a disaster ). First I slipped the pan into place and yes it took me a while as it won't go unless its slid in just at the right angles, then once the back of the pan was into the area of the flange mount, I went and got the gasket and then threaded that through the front of the pan and feeding it under the filter etc and finally working it onto the flange of the pan and lining up the two locating nubs to drop into the pan. Then lifted the pan up into place and get a couple of bolts started and check and make sure the gasket is where its supposed to be as the bolts were being put in. I never used any power tools as I don't have any of the whimsy little drive guns, I use what looks like a small screw driver handle with shank that has a 1/4 drive on the end of it and added an extension and those bolts use a 10 mm socket as some times power tools can bite a person if used on delicate parts ( torqued to 80 inch pounds ). Also should note as per rules around pulling the add plug out first, yes I cracked that loose with a 8 mm Allen bit socket on a 3/8 slim head ratchet as there isn't a lot of room to work with there either due to the exhaust on the right side of the trans.    I already had delco ULV oil on hand and of course the quart bottle pump wasn't made for those small cap threads so I had to use some other containers that the pump would fit and keep transferring oil over into them so a wasted exercise there but indeed the small pump did work just fine as ULV oil is thin and easy to pump in summer time weather. I put in 9.5 quarts as per prior minimum recommendation and yes that cut it pretty close as once I had the truck ( off the jack stands so its level ) and the trans oil up to 167f , about 6 ounces came out but a level kit or what have you could throw it off just enough that it wouldn't be enough oil so probably that 10 quarts is a good amount to put in so one doesn't have to add more oil as when its hot I sure wouldn't want to be adding oil so would have to let the exhaust cool. All I do for warming up the transmission is sit there with it in park and rev it to about 2500 rpm and it takes close to 20 minutes to get it up to that lower limit of 167f, weird how it will warm up more doing that then by driving it, I am not real keen on power braking the truck to get the temp up there and don't seem to have to either. By the way I only have 9000 miles on the truck so probably not a very good payback on doing it that soon and the magnets had such a minor thin layer of fines on them so that was good to see and the color of the oil was a darker red then new oil but still looked very good as it should and I've not done any towing with it so its been living a pretty easy life so far. The filter is made in such a way that its next to impossible to pull out the filter media but there certainly was some fines showing up there which makes sense give the trans having to break in.    I hadn't really planned on explaining this much of what I had done since there are various instruction videos kicking around or I think so, as the gist of my message as that by fluke or what have you, for some reason my truck has just enough clearance to slip the pan out from the trans. Of course there is no guarantee that other trucks like this in general will also allow the pan to be taken out without messing with the exhaust as I expect its probably a crap shoot if it will or won't, I was just happy to find out that mine would work and avoid all the other struggling and possibly damaging things in the process,     
    • Do you fellas think Fog Lamps would  be a good upgrade for our 2024 2500 HD Custom ? As you probably know it did not come with them ,  Would you put in GM Chevy parts ? Do they get wired up to the switch panel ( Upfitter or whatever the correct terminology is ) on the dash ? Thanks
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...