Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Put the drive selector in M, then you can put it in m1, m2, m3, m4, etc with the +/- buttons on the shifter.

 

If it goes past 6, you have an 8 speed

 

When in M mode, it just means whatever gear you select is the highest gear it will go in. It's not like typical +/- paddle shifter that will shift on demand like a wanna-be sequential

 

Gotcha, never thought of that, thanks for the suggestion. All of my last three trucks have had auto shift. I tinkered with that locally around town shortly after we bought it but didn't get past 3rd before I decided to put it back in drive. I'll try that on the way home from work, (turnpike driving).

Posted

 

It was purchased used with 12k already on it. I'm not too concerned with the decision the original owner made, It also has the chrome package and we got it for a steal. This truck is awesome and awesome looking.

 

It is a good looking truck - looks very similar to mine except it is white :)

 

 

On another note, it DID have one thing that is a thing of the past.... It had Dual Tanks on it, LOVED IT. 40 gal total fuel capacity. Wish I could still get that today. Only thing I really miss...

 

Was looking at Tundra's the other day when buying the lady a Camry and they had a 38 gallon tank listed. I had a 33 or 34 gallon tank on my last truck (Titan) and loved it as well. I am not sure why that isn't a more popular option.

  • Like 1
Posted

 

It is a good looking truck - looks very similar to mine except it is white :)

 

 

Was looking at Tundra's the other day when buying the lady a Camry and they had a 38 gallon tank listed. I had a 33 or 34 gallon tank on my last truck (Titan) and loved it as well. I am not sure why that isn't a more popular option.

 

I see you have K&N Intake on your signature. Any chance you can post a video of starting up the truck and engine rev? I've been debating the K&N for two reasons. On my wife's side of the fam, Her brother, uncle and cousin, (uncles son) all have Silverado's and they all installed the K&N cold air intake. They said it helps with gas mileage and suggested I should get it as well, because it also sounds really good too. Does it change the sound that much?

Posted

 

We bought ours used, it's also a 16, the salesman said, "your're really going to like this, I think it's an 8 speed too". He didn't know because we bought it from a dealership called "Carsense", they buy up off lease vehicles and resell them, most of the sales guys don't have any clue what they're selling. How would I know if this is an 8 speed, there's nothing in the manuals.

You could also verify which transmission on the glove box RPO label.

 

MYC is the 6 speed

M5U is the 8 speed

 

I

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

AN3 seats on SLT are 10 way

AN3 seats on Denali are 12 way (which are not available on SLT)

Edited by redwngr
Posted

AN3 seats on SLT are 10 way

AN3 seats on Denali are 12 way (which are not available on SLT)

what is the added adjustment on 12 way ?

Posted (edited)

AN3 seats on SLT are 10 way

AN3 seats on Denali are 12 way (which are not available on SLT)

 

It's 8 speed, got on the turnpike on the way home yesterday and tested.

 

So now that I know I have a question about our camper. We have a 33' camper which in the past truck, (Ram) we averaged 9 miles per gallon hitched up with tow control enabled. Which is better, using the auto shift or just leave it in drive?

 

And for what it's worth the cab is huge. The back windows are the same size as the front. I'm 6' tall and can practically stretch out.

Edited by jernatety
Posted (edited)

 

 

On my wife's side of the fam, Her brother, uncle and cousin, (uncles son) all have Silverado's and they all installed the K&N cold air intake. They said it helps with gas mileage and suggested I should get it as well, because it also sounds really good too. Does it change the sound that much?

I believe I got better MPGs because I need to justify my silly purchase. You CAN'T gain mileage in a computer controlled system by changing the filter. More air = more horsepower = more fuel.

 

Effect of Intake Air Filter Condition on Vehicle Fuel Economy

 

 

 

Results show that clogging the air filter has no significant effect on the fuel economy of the newer vehicles (all fuel injected with closed-loop control and one equipped with MDS). The engine control systems were able to maintain the desired AFR regardless of intake restrictions, and therefore fuel consumption was not increased. The carbureted engine did show a decrease in fuel economy with increasing restriction. However, the level of restriction required to cause a substantial (10–15%) decrease in fuel economy (such as that cited in the literature3,4 ) was so severe that the vehicle was almost undrivable. Acceleration performance on all vehicles was improved with a clean air filter.

Edited by elcamino
Posted

There's quite a few differences, there's a list running around here somewhere if you do a search. If you negotiate well you can get a Denali for a similar (sometimes better) price

Posted

 

Was looking at Tundra's the other day when buying the lady a Camry and they had a 38 gallon tank listed. I had a 33 or 34 gallon tank on my last truck (Titan) and loved it as well. I am not sure why that isn't a more popular option.

 

Well, i must admit that fuel economy in trucks has improved quite a bit since my '91 F150 (had the 302 V8). I remember folks asking what mileage I was getting with that truck. I used to answer 13mpg. They would then ask City or highway?... and I would answer "correct".

 

My Sierra gets 16-17 all day long in suburban driving and 21+ on the highway. That adds up on range.

 

Most American manufacturers will size the tank for approx 400 miles range in the city. Doing the math on my truck, 400/16=25, and, hence a 26 gal tank.

 

I am with you, though, if there was a choice of a larger tank, I would have "bought on" for sure.

Posted

I think a 30 gallon tank wouk be about right. I think people forget gas weighs a lot so adding bigger tanks means more weight, thus less mpgs. Also many gas stations here limit each fuel purchase to 30 gallons.

Posted

I think a 30 gallon tank wouk be about right. I think people forget gas weighs a lot so adding bigger tanks means more weight, thus less mpgs. Also many gas stations here limit each fuel purchase to 30 gallons.

Gas weighs 7 lbs per gallon, give or take. An extra 4 gallons (26 to a 30 gallon tank) would only be an additional 28 lbs. An extra 28 lbs on a 5500 lb truck that has a 1500lb payload capacity, you will never notice.

Posted

Hence why i said 30 pounds versus our 26 gallon. Go to 34 gallons, now you're running what would be sand tubes in the bed of your truck.

 

 

Gas weighs 7 lbs per gallon, give or take. An extra 4 gallons (26 to a 30 gallon tank) would only be an additional 28 lbs. An extra 28 lbs on a 5500 lb truck that has a 1500lb payload capacity, you will never notice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 404 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...