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Picking up my new Chevy 1500 tomorrow - should of read this forum firs


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Posted

Excellent Son! Now due yourself a favor and go under your truck and put 1 full turn on the front Cross member bolts all! And put 1 Full turn on all the U-Bolt Nuts on back Axle! I am not kidding dead serious at least 3/4 turn on em! Due to the Frame to Cab attachments aka Shear mounts you will vibrate on the appropriate road conditions.......And is completely NORMAL your truck will not CREAK when flexed repeatedly but will VIBE on certain conditions.......

 

I have no idea what this means or what bolts you are referring to but i'll check! are you saying tightening these helps with vibration issues?

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Posted

 

I have no idea what this means or what bolts you are referring to but i'll check! are you saying tightening these helps with vibration issues?

 

It's what I mentioned in my comment, or I think I did. The u-bolts are the bolts that bolt the rear axle to the leaf springs. There's 2 of them for each side so 4 nuts. It's just a u shaped bolt that wraps around the axle. What it causes is a popping sound anytime you give it throttle. It may not do it everytime. When I tightened mine I did more than 1 full turn on each nut.

Posted

Yup, What he said....Also do the front nuts on Cross Member and you will be much happier!

Posted

Yup, What he said....Also do the front nuts on Cross Member and you will be much happie

Ok great i'll give it a shot..thanks to Mookdoc and Southernsilveradoguy.....anything else I should do on my new truck? I heard somewhere (can't remember where) I should get my oil change after the first 1,000 miles rather than wait for the system to tell me

Posted

Ok great i'll give it a shot..thanks to Mookdoc and Southernsilveradoguy.....anything else I should do on my new truck? I heard somewhere (can't remember where) I should get my oil change after the first 1,000 miles rather than wait for the system to tell me

IMO, that would be a waste. These things have a sump capacity of ~8 quarts and a full filtration system, as well as a magnet to catch any ferrous particles. The oil will be fine until the OLM notifies you. Even if broke in the fast/hard way, which is the best way, there isn't enough microscopic bits of ring material etc. released into the oil to cause any issues.

Most guys break these engines in too slowly anyways, such that they never really break-in at all & don't create any wear material etc to go into the oil. Those are the guys that usually have end up having oil usage problems etc.

Posted

Mines a shaker and a heart breaker..

 

Can't be fixed.

 

But on the positive side it keeps me awake on those late night interstate cruises!

Posted

Ok great i'll give it a shot..thanks to Mookdoc and Southernsilveradoguy.....anything else I should do on my new truck? I heard somewhere (can't remember where) I should get my oil change after the first 1,000 miles rather than wait for the system to tell me

IMO that is the only Oil Change that you need to do and not play around with. Dump it 1,000 miles and buy a cheap paint strainer and inform yourself if you wasted money buy changing the oil/filter. If you determine that it was than don't do another "NEW BREAKING IN ENGINE" 1K oil change.

 

I will never let a "NEW BREAKING ENGINE" go longer than 1K.....way to much crap circulating around.

Posted

IMO that is the only Oil Change that you need to do and not play around with. Dump it 1,000 miles and buy a cheap paint strainer and inform yourself if you wasted money buy changing the oil/filter. If you determine that it was than don't do another "NEW BREAKING IN ENGINE" 1K oil change.

 

I will never let a "NEW BREAKING ENGINE" go longer than 1K.....way to much crap circulating around.

I'll second that. First oil change at 1K, been doing it every new car since my first '65 Impala SS. GM procedure for new cars at that time was the free 1,000 mile checkup at which time they would change the oil and filter. Yeah, like nowadays they break them in on the line - spinning them absent the actual stresses of gasoline combustion and load of a drive train is not the same as breaking them in.

 

Cartridge filters on the V8s in those days - you could see all the shiny metal filings and metallic sludge from the break-in. Now I band saw the factory spin-on after the first 1K and there are always metallic particles and microfines, better off in the garbage than hanging out for the next 6K+ squeezing past the bypass flapper which on the new crapo Delco "E" filters is made of coated cardboard instead of metal in the old non "E" filters. Thanks to Walmart because they continued to carry the old metal guts PF63 while dealers switched to the cardboard and plastic PF63Es.

Posted

I bought my 2017 in Jan. It has been nothing but trouble. The first day the paint fell off. A week later the truck was shaking horribly but it was only from 30 to 80 mph so that was labeled as in spec. My back seat caught on fire and when I brought this to the dealer he started laughing and told me to F off.

 

Seriously, my truck is fine, your truck is fine. Take what you read on the internet with a grain of salt.

Posted

I'll second that. First oil change at 1K, been doing it every new car since my first '65 Impala SS. GM procedure for new cars at that time was the free 1,000 mile checkup at which time they would change the oil and filter. Yeah, like nowadays they break them in on the line - spinning them absent the actual stresses of gasoline combustion and load of a drive train is not the same as breaking them in.

 

Cartridge filters on the V8s in those days - you could see all the shiny metal filings and metallic sludge from the break-in. Now I band saw the factory spin-on after the first 1K and there are always metallic particles and microfines, better off in the garbage than hanging out for the next 6K+ squeezing past the bypass flapper which on the new crapo Delco "E" filters is made of coated cardboard instead of metal in the old non "E" filters. Thanks to Walmart because they continued to carry the old metal guts PF63 while dealers switched to the cardboard and plastic PF63Es.

 

 

I could not of said it any better! Excellent post...yeah, I forget what they call the technique...Dry run or Cold run on the engine checking a bunch of parameters like Combustion pressure and within 4:00 minutes it's done folks! Your break in is complete!

 

How did you like that Impala by the way? There was something like 5 plants pumping those out to the tune 1 million units a year? Crazy!

 

Were breaking in a engine right now and I will take some pictures for you all!

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